top fill clearance

stratman

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ThrillaMozilla said:
On the bright side, you are one of the few who spelled "lose" correctly. :) (Remember, folks, "loose" rhymes with "goose", "lose" rhymes with "booze".
Whatever works for you is fine, but that example sucks. Booze has two "o's" as does "goose". :barnie
 

stratman

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websnail said:
ThrillaMozilla said:
websnail said:
...as it is silicon coated....
websnail said:
...the low profile silicon plugs....
The word is "silicone". Silicon is the chemical element with atomic number 14. Silicone is a class of chemical compounds based on the element silicon.
*Pedant alert* ;)

I have corrected my appalling crime against spelling, and will ensure that future typos are resolved without the need for public humiliation, beatings or other drastic measures... :p

Grammar saves lives!
Thrilla's correct. Big difference. Now scold your finger for not typing that "e"! :rant

Don't feel so bad. I had a visit from a human dictionary (Thrilla?) for the same mistake a while back too. :hide
 

mikling

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The testing of zero clearance plugs.

This is the world of plugs. The plugs for the CLI-8 that has been used by some with superb success relied on something many did not appreciate but was there. By removing the ball, we were left with a crossection that was a kind of double hourglass shaped. When the CLI-8 plug was inserted and widened with a 5/32" bit, the narrower part of the double hourglass squeezed on the plug. The tip of the plug was solid and beyond that it was hollow. The constriction then cinched on the hollow part and the tip was beyond the constriction. This solid part also did something else. It stopped the plug from backing out by itself over time. Now if you did the same thing with a plug with no top rim, you'd risk the plug going deeper and into the tank. It would easily slide into the tank if you weren't careful.

Of the plugs that I had seen, other than the one mentioned above, none offers the positive cinching effect and perfect seal always. They did not go past the constriction that had been at the OEM ball area. This left the upper part of the tunnel as a low taper that widened to the outside. If a plug is placed in a taper, the taper itself would want to push the plug back out over time. This cannot be avoided. Thus putting a plug with a taper into the hole would risk leakage over time. The solution to this as was mentioned was to place some strong tape over the ball.

Now how do we effect a proper seal with tape. We need to maximize the surface area that the tape contacts. Any plug that protruded beyond the flat top of the cartridge would then remove some of the surface area that is available for the tape to come into contact with. So the solution this far that I have is a zero clearance plug that uses tape as a second line of defense against leaks and also prevents the plug from easing out over time. The zero clearance plug.

So this is what I had been messing with since. Just as it took time to find the correctly functioning plug for the larger cartridges. I think I might have found something here that fulfills the requirements withing constraints. Now this plug is not as convenient as the prior but as explained, obtaining the prior is not in sight so this is the alternative thus far. Even with the German method of refilling I believe these plugs have their place. Why? to effect the easiest way to properly flush a cartridge. After removing the ball, place the tip of a slip luer syringe into the hole and pump water through the cartridge. If you use a high capacity syringe, the flushing process can proceed quite quickly without a bunch of attachments not available to an apartment or condo dweller.

So onto the zero clearance plug.

ZeroPlugs_onedge4.jpg

ZeroPlugs_onedge5.jpg

ZeroPlugs_onedge3.jpg

ZeroPlugs_onedge2.jpg

ZeroPlugs_onedge.jpg


I don't think Canon can catch this plug anytime soon!
 

The Hat

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websnail
Blimey... away for a month and the topic gets very long and technical..

I have two comments to make on the hot glue thing.

1. The Hat: Hot "wax"?!! Go back and edit your posts again for clarity,
I was sure you meant candle wax as well and couldn't figure out how on earth it would work... Confusion ahoy! Tsk
On the subject of WAX I said I used a hot glue gun to apply hot wax which I taught was self explanatory,
but obviously it wasnt. (See below)
Its a hot glue gun which uses 20 cm long glue sticks for bonding,
sealing and joining which sticks to most surfaces including glass. (Code phpz 32 a1)
I use the term wax loosely rather than calling it glue because when the glue dries hard is looks like wax and can be removed
just like wax so long as theres enough of it there to get the knife under the edge to pry it off in one piece.
But if some clarification is still need then I assume one would apply wax using a candle and not a hot glue gun.
Candle wax usually dries almost instantly on contact (or seconds) but when I apply the hot glue
its a dam sight hotter than candle wax (200 c) it takes 25 seconds to cool and it will burn fingers on contact.
 

stratman

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mikling said:
Now this plug is not as convenient as the prior but as explained, obtaining the prior is not in sight so this is the alternative thus far.
Are the silicone plugs for the CLI-8 cartridges not available anymore?
 

mikling

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Yes, they will continue to be. In fact, I use them on my MP560...that AIO clears the CLI-8 plugs and it is a 220/221 model. I've also come across an MX860 that cleared but others have told me that theirs didn't. And the CLI-8 plugs also clear the printer only models. It is just that on most scanner equipped models, the clearances are tight and there is a collision.

I really meant obtaining the plug that would have the same features as the one for the CLI-8 i.e. long body that uses the constriction at the end of the tunnel. The plugs for the CLI-8,BCI-6 etc will still be available. Yes.

I guess the clarification is that it is not likely to occur in the near future. My grammer er grandma er grammar. grammatical errors.
 

mikling

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Here are the plugs that look OK and work well with Aluminum tape. Notice the taper that follows the tunnel dimensions. The taper will tend to invite the plug to slip back up, the laws of physics can't be revoked. There will always be a vector pointing up and out from the forces of compression within the tapered tunnel. If the tunnel has ink, the friction is reduced and the net vector going out is increased. If the tunnel is nicked, air will go past as well. It is not a foolproof plug like the CLI-8 one was. That is why a second line of sealing with Aluminum tape is called for. Compare to the older CLI-8 one. Now take a look at how the LI-8 worked and it will now make sense. Notice that the solid tip goes past the tip.

zeroclearplugs5_512.jpg

clearplugs5_512.jpg

2012-04-0120-07-08_3248.gif
 

pearlhouse

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Well I think the Hat is right. This subject has gone way to techie.
I may be guilty for a little of this along with Joseph, when we were comparing ideas on how to drill the top fill hole. We then got into it on sealing the hole.
So folks I would suggest we end this topic today with this reply and move on and back to more simple topics with much simpler answers. Sorry guys this is a great web site and I dont want see this go down the tubes cause some of us all got way to techie when we didnt need to. :)
 

ThrillaMozilla

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Well, if you take up with a woman who tells you she has silicon implants, watch out. It means she's bugged--probably a secret agent.
 

stratman

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ThrillaMozilla said:
Well, if you take up with a woman who tells you she has silicon implants, watch out. It means she's bugged--probably a secret agent.
Is that where the phrase "tune in to Tokyo" came from? :plbb
 
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