ThrillaMozilla
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Blow hard on the seal. You should get nothing.
top fill clearance
- Thread starter mrelmo
- Start date
joseph1949
Getting Fingers Dirty
To: The Hat
Per: post#70
I used the penny three times:
1. Covered the ball seal with glue and pressed down the glue with the penny. The penny did not stick to the glue. The reason I covered the ball seal with glue was to eliminate any possible that the ball seal was not sealing.
2. Glued down the penny next to the top fill plug so as to show the thickness of the glue plug. The penny did not stick to the glue.
3. Placed glue over the fill hole and pressed the glue down with the penny. The penny did not stick to the glue. Also, the glue plug did not leak.
So, what is going on? There are a number of possibilities:
1. I got lucky.
2. I have a magic penny!!!!!
3. The glue is specialmaybe from NASA!!!!!
4. The glue is at the right temperature. Will test with a temperature probe to see what is the temperature of the glueno joke!!!!!!
5. The glue gods were looking over my shoulder (see 1. above).
All kidding aside (I will test with the temperature probe, though) I will be doing some testing tomorrow. I will pull out a PGI-220BK cart and replace with a virgin OEM Canon cart. The virgin cart is getting old so I think it is best to use it before it goes bad.
I will be testing the pulled cart with the penny. My glue gun has two temperatures for the gluelow and high. I will test the penny with the gun set on low and the gun set on high. I will use the temperature probe to test (no joke!!!) for the temperature of the low heat setting and the high heat setting. I am guessing I will test the glue/penny method five times for each temperature setting. The result of the tests will tell me if my initial success was only a fluke or that the penny method really works.
Here is how I test to see if my glue plug is sealing or not:
1. With the tape covering the air vent and the orange cap on the ink outlet I turn the cart upside down for a few seconds. After turning the cart right side up I test the glue plug with a tissue. If there are no signs of ink, I go to step 2.
2. I remove the tape over the air vent and remove the orange cap from the ink outlet. I then turn the cart upside down for a few seconds. After turning the cart right side up, I test the plug with a tissue. If there are no signs of ink, I go to step 3.
3. I hold the cart in the horizontal position (like it is in the print head) for two minutes (maybe longer) to see if there is ink leaking from the outlet. If I see no leakage I place the cart in the print head. I will not print until the next daythis gives the cart time to stabilize.
I know that I am being super anal with the above three steps, but better to be super anal then have a leaking cart inside the cart. Cleaning up after a leaking cart is no fun!!!!!!!!!
Thank you.
Per: post#70
I used the penny three times:
1. Covered the ball seal with glue and pressed down the glue with the penny. The penny did not stick to the glue. The reason I covered the ball seal with glue was to eliminate any possible that the ball seal was not sealing.
2. Glued down the penny next to the top fill plug so as to show the thickness of the glue plug. The penny did not stick to the glue.
3. Placed glue over the fill hole and pressed the glue down with the penny. The penny did not stick to the glue. Also, the glue plug did not leak.
So, what is going on? There are a number of possibilities:
1. I got lucky.
2. I have a magic penny!!!!!
3. The glue is specialmaybe from NASA!!!!!
4. The glue is at the right temperature. Will test with a temperature probe to see what is the temperature of the glueno joke!!!!!!
5. The glue gods were looking over my shoulder (see 1. above).
All kidding aside (I will test with the temperature probe, though) I will be doing some testing tomorrow. I will pull out a PGI-220BK cart and replace with a virgin OEM Canon cart. The virgin cart is getting old so I think it is best to use it before it goes bad.
I will be testing the pulled cart with the penny. My glue gun has two temperatures for the gluelow and high. I will test the penny with the gun set on low and the gun set on high. I will use the temperature probe to test (no joke!!!) for the temperature of the low heat setting and the high heat setting. I am guessing I will test the glue/penny method five times for each temperature setting. The result of the tests will tell me if my initial success was only a fluke or that the penny method really works.
Here is how I test to see if my glue plug is sealing or not:
1. With the tape covering the air vent and the orange cap on the ink outlet I turn the cart upside down for a few seconds. After turning the cart right side up I test the glue plug with a tissue. If there are no signs of ink, I go to step 2.
2. I remove the tape over the air vent and remove the orange cap from the ink outlet. I then turn the cart upside down for a few seconds. After turning the cart right side up, I test the plug with a tissue. If there are no signs of ink, I go to step 3.
3. I hold the cart in the horizontal position (like it is in the print head) for two minutes (maybe longer) to see if there is ink leaking from the outlet. If I see no leakage I place the cart in the print head. I will not print until the next daythis gives the cart time to stabilize.
I know that I am being super anal with the above three steps, but better to be super anal then have a leaking cart inside the cart. Cleaning up after a leaking cart is no fun!!!!!!!!!
Thank you.
pearlhouse
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The Hat is correct in stating that if you try to use a penny or for that matter any metal object the glue will bond good enough that you will not be able to remove the metal item without removing the whole glue plug.
I thought refilling cartridges was supposed to be a cost savings idea along with sticking it to the OEM manufacturers for charging outrageous prices for their cartridges. It sounds to me like the amount of time that is being spent on refilling them using the top fill method is getting out of hand. You guys arnt really saying what kind of sucess rate you are getting using this method and how much time is being put into this procedure.
So I cant resist putting in this plug for the german method of refilling. Im looking for a fast economical way of filling these things. This is why I have gone to the german method. Today I refilled 8 sets of five carts. (40) blk mag cyan yellow and two lg blk ones in a little over 1 1/2 hours using squeeze bottles. Just for kicks I sealed all the carts with discs of alum. tape. I hope this may stop evaporation problems if they happen to set around for a while. I also weighed each cart. so as to make sure they were fully filled and reset all the chips. I have three other friends who use these same carts so this is why Im refilling so many at once. 0% leakers 0% problems and no clearance problems. Sealed in a zip lock bag ready to go.
I thought refilling cartridges was supposed to be a cost savings idea along with sticking it to the OEM manufacturers for charging outrageous prices for their cartridges. It sounds to me like the amount of time that is being spent on refilling them using the top fill method is getting out of hand. You guys arnt really saying what kind of sucess rate you are getting using this method and how much time is being put into this procedure.
So I cant resist putting in this plug for the german method of refilling. Im looking for a fast economical way of filling these things. This is why I have gone to the german method. Today I refilled 8 sets of five carts. (40) blk mag cyan yellow and two lg blk ones in a little over 1 1/2 hours using squeeze bottles. Just for kicks I sealed all the carts with discs of alum. tape. I hope this may stop evaporation problems if they happen to set around for a while. I also weighed each cart. so as to make sure they were fully filled and reset all the chips. I have three other friends who use these same carts so this is why Im refilling so many at once. 0% leakers 0% problems and no clearance problems. Sealed in a zip lock bag ready to go.
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It sounds like youre a happy refiller with the German method and good on you if it works for you.
I happen to like the top fill method as much as you like your way of filling so three cheers for both of us for refilling our own way.
I like this method simply because its very quick and easy with a 99% success rate and it could be better if I didnt rush it at times,
I also like the German method too but just dont use it for myself but do when asked to fill cartridges for others.
There is also a third way called the freedom refill method which also works extremely well
but is just a little slower than the other two popular ways mentioned.
All refilling method are very economical when carried our successfully and time is usually not a cost factor
to most because they enjoy this practice so much it doesnt come into at all.
So all I can say is Happy Refilling..
pearlhouse
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The top fill method I agree seems to be the most cut and dry method of all of them. I just had a lot of trouble getting a good seal on the top hole. Maybe if I had experimented a little more I would have found a method to make a better seal. The glue just did not seem to bond to the plastic very good. Am I missing something here maybe you can explain to me. Is there splashing or something going on that the underside of the seal hole is wetted with ink while the printer is running. In the printer it seems to me that there should be just be air coming in if the hole is not se aled completely. I never had ink coming out the top hole but if I had a leaker the ink came out the bottom out put hole.
Sounds to me like you have been doing this a lot longer than I have so if this works for you, I say GO FOR IT!
I agree with you that time should not be a factor in this but never the less right now for me the german method is much faster for me.
Once I had the method worked out I went for speed of refilling, thats why I went with the squeeze bottles so I didnt have to deal with cleaning syringes and the whole bit.
So there you have it.
The freedom method sounds to complicated and time consuming for me. The only plus I see is the cartridge remains as is and continues to always look like a new cart. If I was selling these things or refilling for money then this might be the way to go.
Keep up the good work and lets hope Canon keeps using this style carts in all there newer printers.
Sounds to me like you have been doing this a lot longer than I have so if this works for you, I say GO FOR IT!
I agree with you that time should not be a factor in this but never the less right now for me the german method is much faster for me.
Once I had the method worked out I went for speed of refilling, thats why I went with the squeeze bottles so I didnt have to deal with cleaning syringes and the whole bit.
So there you have it.
The freedom method sounds to complicated and time consuming for me. The only plus I see is the cartridge remains as is and continues to always look like a new cart. If I was selling these things or refilling for money then this might be the way to go.
Keep up the good work and lets hope Canon keeps using this style carts in all there newer printers.
Trigger 37
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I need to update the items I've posted to this thread. First off I'm very happy with my latest attemps with standard glue and gun. I use a stainless steel blade to flatten my "Dot" of glue after it cools for 5-7 seconds. It just depends on how large the hole is your are trying to fill. The smaller the better.
I had mentioned that I was testing the German method and one ink cart is still in the printer. I used what I felt was some very sticky heavy black tape to cover the rear fill hole. By the 2nd day it was leaking,.. not a lot but it was leaking. If I took the tape off it would still leak. I don't see how people can claim that ink does not leak out of that hole? Anyway I'm done with that test and I'll fill that hole with hot glue. On the other carts that I top filled and sealed them with glue,..they have been fine and have caused no problems. I didn't expect them too as I have been top filling since 2006. I am also giving up on tape for awhile as I have too many other problems to work on.
One final comment about the new Canon CLI-221, 225, ink carts and the orange Twist Lock caps that come with them. The other day I made the mistake of thinking I could use them to CAP off some CLI-8 ink carts while I refilled them for another printer. So I put the cap on the large PGI-8 ink cart and held it in place with a very strong rubber band wrapped twice. I pulled out the plug and filled the cart to the top with new pigmented ink. As I went to put the plug back in I discovered I had black ink all over everything and it was leaking out of the bottom of the cart faster than I have put it in. It turns out the new twist caps for the CLI-221 do not fit tight on the older CLI-8 ink carts. Wow what a mess I made,.. I was just lucky I had on vinyl gloves since I was doing a lot of filling,... but my sink and work space was a mess to clean up. Many of you that have been using the newer printer for a long time probably already knew about this but I had to find out the hard way. Maybe the next guy won't have this problem.
I had mentioned that I was testing the German method and one ink cart is still in the printer. I used what I felt was some very sticky heavy black tape to cover the rear fill hole. By the 2nd day it was leaking,.. not a lot but it was leaking. If I took the tape off it would still leak. I don't see how people can claim that ink does not leak out of that hole? Anyway I'm done with that test and I'll fill that hole with hot glue. On the other carts that I top filled and sealed them with glue,..they have been fine and have caused no problems. I didn't expect them too as I have been top filling since 2006. I am also giving up on tape for awhile as I have too many other problems to work on.
One final comment about the new Canon CLI-221, 225, ink carts and the orange Twist Lock caps that come with them. The other day I made the mistake of thinking I could use them to CAP off some CLI-8 ink carts while I refilled them for another printer. So I put the cap on the large PGI-8 ink cart and held it in place with a very strong rubber band wrapped twice. I pulled out the plug and filled the cart to the top with new pigmented ink. As I went to put the plug back in I discovered I had black ink all over everything and it was leaking out of the bottom of the cart faster than I have put it in. It turns out the new twist caps for the CLI-221 do not fit tight on the older CLI-8 ink carts. Wow what a mess I made,.. I was just lucky I had on vinyl gloves since I was doing a lot of filling,... but my sink and work space was a mess to clean up. Many of you that have been using the newer printer for a long time probably already knew about this but I had to find out the hard way. Maybe the next guy won't have this problem.
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Blimey... away for a month and the topic gets very long and technical..
I have two comments to make on the hot glue thing.
1. The Hat: Hot "wax"?!! Go back and edit your posts again for clarity, I was sure you meant candle wax as well and couldn't figure out how on earth it would work... Confusion ahoy! Tsk
2. There's a lot of talk about hot glue as if the material available was a constant, with standard characteristics... There are numerous types with differing qualities including those with good all round adhesion and others with specialist applications such as boat building, plastics bonding (including low energy types eg: polypropylene), etc... So worth bearing in mind as one size does not fit all here.
3. As an alternative to the penny idea, has anyone thought of using the backing paper for printer labels as it is silicon coated and designed to have minimal adhesion (so the labels can come off)... This may work better as an interface to press down on with your finger or similar to flatten the glue while providing the same benefit described with the penny idea.
Last thing... the low profile silicone plugs are definitely not a perfect solution but given the lengths Canon have gone to make plugs considerably less practical a necessary evil... So can I suggest a means of ensuring they do not "escape" might be to get a box, sit it on its side, place your cartridge inside the box while you ease it out with a blunt needle, flattened paper-clip, etc... If it pings around it's likely to be contained within the box, or at least lose some of its energy making it easier to relocate.
I have two comments to make on the hot glue thing.
1. The Hat: Hot "wax"?!! Go back and edit your posts again for clarity, I was sure you meant candle wax as well and couldn't figure out how on earth it would work... Confusion ahoy! Tsk
2. There's a lot of talk about hot glue as if the material available was a constant, with standard characteristics... There are numerous types with differing qualities including those with good all round adhesion and others with specialist applications such as boat building, plastics bonding (including low energy types eg: polypropylene), etc... So worth bearing in mind as one size does not fit all here.
3. As an alternative to the penny idea, has anyone thought of using the backing paper for printer labels as it is silicon coated and designed to have minimal adhesion (so the labels can come off)... This may work better as an interface to press down on with your finger or similar to flatten the glue while providing the same benefit described with the penny idea.
Last thing... the low profile silicone plugs are definitely not a perfect solution but given the lengths Canon have gone to make plugs considerably less practical a necessary evil... So can I suggest a means of ensuring they do not "escape" might be to get a box, sit it on its side, place your cartridge inside the box while you ease it out with a blunt needle, flattened paper-clip, etc... If it pings around it's likely to be contained within the box, or at least lose some of its energy making it easier to relocate.
ThrillaMozilla
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websnail said:
The word is "silicone". Silicon is the chemical element with atomic number 14. Silicone is a class of chemical compounds based on the element silicon.websnail said:
On the bright side, you are one of the few who spelled "lose" correctly.
(Remember, folks, "loose" rhymes with "goose", "lose" rhymes with "booze".
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*Pedant alert*ThrillaMozilla said:
I have corrected my appalling crime against spelling, and will ensure that future typos are resolved without the need for public humiliation, beatings or other drastic measures...
Grammar saves lives!
Trigger 37
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websnail,... We are among the worst speller's on the planet so we expect to see bad ones everyday. We've learned to expect them and how to read them since we make so many everyday. When I went to college for my BSEE Degree in Computer Science and Electrical Engineering,..the last thing I was interested in was proper English and especiall spelling. After all,.. my folks taught me how to talk and they could understand me. What else would I ever need. Once I had spent 10 years in business I found out that my inadequate skill in English spelling, sentenace structure really limited my ability to communicate effectively and that kept me out of the very top levels at IBM.
