Cleaning solution: the ultimate test

Paul W.

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the Original Windex which has some alcohol
Before I continue, let me say I just noticed my serious typo! Make that quote "ammonia" not "alcohol"! But evidently you figured out that I meant "ammonia".

I'll try a drop of Windex on a glass and report back... just wanted to correct my mistake first.
 

Paul W.

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HI Paul, without the proper ammonia: you might give your windex a try. A drop of it on a a glass shoud completely evaporate away without the slightest trace. If you see any circle left on the glass or a stain: DON't use it for using inside the print head (only to soak the exterior using a piece of paper towel).
@pharmacist : I ran your test... sorry to note that there was a slight trace left by my drop of Windex on glass. So, I will limit my use of cleaning solutions with Windex to areas outside the print head. I'm trying to remember if I ignorantly did that when I was just getting started. What would be the symptons of ammonia attacking copper inside the print head?

Thank you,

Paul
 

pharmacist

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Copper will be chelated (forming a complex, which is soluble into water): in another words, it will dissolve the copper. However: most dyes are slightly acid and can attack copper as well. I can hardly believe the print head contains copper, as copper can react with water to form copper hydroxide (remember those ancient bronze statues (contains copper) in water, which turned green. Even exposed to air, copper will sooner or later turn greenish). Unless Epson's policy is to optimize the razor blade business model. Ink itself is slightly acid or alkaline (depending on the type of ink). I can hardly believe that copper is used, as it will form green crusts inside the capillary ink channels very quickly, causing massive clogging. For electronic contacts of the print head having copper: yes and very plausible (good conductor), but inside the print head: to me this sounds like an urban legend
 

sony53

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A friend of mine gave me a Epson r2400 what had been sitting in there loft for a couple of years with a ciss what had leaked a bit so by reading stuff on hear and other sites I set about cleaning it up. After a clean up ran a nozzle check blocked nozzle on nearly all colours. so got some ipa and set it on the printer with some paper towels left it to soak overnight. Tried another nozzle check still blocked sent of for some windex soaked again over night again now all colours except yellow was working. tried again still no yellow so I tried pharmacist formula propylene glycol/ipa and distilled water over night. next day ran a nozzle check all colours working except for a tiny bit of yellow missing so I added a bit of windex in formula next day nozzle check and all colours was working so a big thanks to pharmacist and other members on here
 

sony53

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isopropyl alcohol =ipa 1st get some paper towels fold them so that they can go under print head I soak the paper with windex and left it to soak over night also tried ipa and left that to soak over night on a folded paper towel
 

Vorkolor

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The formula is as follows:

-3 ml propylene glycol (or 2 % glycerol)
-20 ml isopropylalcohol
-distilled water up to 100 ml
I'm not sure I can get hold of propylene glycol, but glycerol is available. What does "2%" mean?
I can get the blue-colored isopropyl alcohol, is that good enough or do I need something cleaner?
Will demineralised water work instead of distilled? (Less hassle since I've already got some.)
 

stratman

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glycerol is available. What does "2%" mean?
Glycerol will make up 2% of the total solution. If the total ml of solution are 100 ml then use 2 ml of glycerol.

I can get the blue-colored isopropyl alcohol, is that good enough or do I need something cleaner?
I would advise against as there are additives in the blue IPA that may harm the print head. One blue IPA I looked up had methyl salicylate additive which when in the presence of a sugar, such as glycerol, and then dried can cause a build up of electrical charge and luminesce, not good if this causes a short in the print head electronics. I do not know if this is possible with glycerol but why take the chance.

You could substitute unadulterated ethyl alcohol, like vodka or grain alcohol. Just account for the dilution of the alcohol and adjust the amount of water added. For example, 100 Proof vodka is 50% alcohol by volume and 50% water by volume. If you are making up 100 ml of Pharmacist's solution then add 30 ml of the 100 Proof vodka instead of 20 ml. That would mean you only add 63 ml water instead of 73 ml.

Demineralized water is fine to use.
 
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