I used PC red ink only many years ago, when I immediately found that it was not suitable for printing my picture files.
As for ink consumption, 2.4-4mL x 5 (12-20mL!), each time a given cartridge runs out of ink. Since each cartridge usually ends up in its own time, it is a huge waste of ink...
Thanks for your reply. I use i1pro/i1profiler and >2000 patch targets for my own profiles. In fact the lack of gamut on these shadow saturated reds/purples (compared to OEM-only inkset or to the PC72V2 with OEM-R) is visible even using PC Argyll-made profiles for other matte papers while soft...
Two years passed since I completely replaced the PC72V2+OEM-R inkset with the SE+OEM-R one. Like I reported on a previous topic, a considerable improvement in many aspects. Less bronzing, less gloss differential, larger gamut on greens and other hues, but it lost a bit on the reds and purples...
Thanks mikling, for the reply. I thought about calibrating the printer using the tool provided by the manufacturer because maybe that would change the gamut a little in favor of magenta. No success. Color Management Tool Pro gives an error just after trying to upload calibration data to the...
A year or so ago, I completely replaced the PC72V2+OEM-R inkset with the SE+OEM-R one. Overall, a considerable improvement in many aspects. Less bronzing, less gloss differential, larger gamut on greens (although welcome, it wasn't exactly my need) and other hues, but it lost a bit on the reds...
You're not alone with this. For each mL of Y, PK, MK, O or R, I spend 50% more of M, 100% more of C and 150% more of GO. I think R2000 dithering is prone to Yellow/Orange/Red tones, so it spends much more Cyan and Magenta to compensate. Unfortunately I do not use OEM cartridges.
I would go for a new printer. I owned some IP4xxxx series printers and, by far, the QY6-0075 (for IP4500, MP610, etc) is the worst printhead in terms of durability. Also, QY6-0080 based printers print faster and more accurate. Of course, the CLI-8 cartridges are cheaper, but the balance would...
I usually "wash" used cartridges with new inks. It's not so economical (we throw out around 10 to 20mL of ink per cartridge), but it works and does not have the drawback of remaining unvaporated water. A contamination of 10% easily drops to 0,1% or less between the second and third partial...
I have two sets of refillable cartridges for my Epson R2000. One installed into the printer, another waiting outside, just like I would do with OEM carts. That way I do not have to wait for cartridge refilling while printing a long series of pictures that would cause a given ink to run out at...
Some years ago, yellow starvation occured to me. I replaced almost everything before discover the yellow ink was guilty. Simply, a new batch of yellow ink was bad. Exchanced it and everything went back ok automatically.
I have success with not dilluted Windex. I fill a shallow saucer until I reach a column of 1 or 1.5 mm above the bottom of printerhead. Leave it for 60 minutes, while droping around 1cc of Windex through ink inlet. Then reinstall it into the printer and do 2 or 3 cleaning cycles. Do it...
I have tested many OEM and non-OEM dye based inks. Besides their low light/gas fading resistance (exception must be said about the Canon ChromaLife100+ inks), another strong drawback is their narrower gamut for shadow and deep shadow tones, specially for glossy (resin or cast coated) papers. If...
Hi jtoolman! Yes, I'm still having the same problem, although somewhat less intense. I managed to find an authorized Epson service in my country which accepted the imported printer, despite of, as he said, Epson in Brazil would not supply spare parts if needed. He performed the whole Adjustment...
Although I used the manual alignment pattern to demonstrate the problem, the problem does not seem to be related to any misalignment, or at least to anything that would be completely solved by adjustments made by the Epson adjustment program. There're some evenly spaced horizontal lines/gaps...