My Canon PRO-10 on refill ink - and what happened to my PRO-9500II

The Hat

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Autocalibration means a monitor with a built-in colorimeter able to perform calibration and profiling by itself
You would say that, because I didn’t think it necessary to mention, so yes I did leave that bit out, but it has its own built in calibration sensor unit which can also be check manually, but mine has always be set to auto and in the years I’ve need perfect colour it has been spot on..

P.S. it just doesn’t change the brightness it also adjusts the Vibrancy, exposure and gamma if necessary, because colour isn’t constant in changing ambient light.. You got to get something for your money.. :thumbsup
 

The Hat

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Just an update...
As much as I like the Ezio screen, it is getting on a bit now, (Like meself) so we have switched to a new DellUP3218K as the main screen now.. Big improvement even dough the new Ezio screens come with their own Densitometer that pops out over the screen for a quick check and then hides itself away again.. But pretty expensive..
 

palombian

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After 3 years, the printhead of my 9500 II is dead (half of PM lost).
It was not 100% new since I got it with a printer I bought very cheap because the owner could not get it right with a new printhead.
Before I printed more than 2 years with the head of the first 9500 II I bought second hand.

Since this one probably has a lot of pages and starts making strange noises, I installed the newer printer, but unfortunatily the printhead has failures too (I thought it was still good but probably it had a lot of stress when the owner tried to clean it and it did not survive a reinstall - red missing). It is again in a bath but I do not have much hope.

I am not such a fan of cleaning instructions (except for minor defects in the nozzle check).
When there are doubts of clogging, bathing the head is a better solution (will keep this in mind for the PRO-10).

I still have one new printhead (the first I ever bought new). When this will live 3 years too I can't complain about the 9500 II.

After that it can finish it's career as B/W printer if I want.
 
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The Hat

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After 3 years, the printhead of my 9500 II is dead (half of PM lost).
Damaged head or not it can still be used to put a coating of Glop on your prints, 1 or 2 missing colour nozzles won’t matter, select a colour tint that doesn’t primary use the missing colours…
 

palombian

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My Coloredge CS2420 was delivered yesterday afternoon, and it was a long night to get it calibrated.

My problem was that the photo's looked too warm in Lightroom compared to the prints (where nothing changed).

This morning I realised that I tried to switch between the Adobe RGB and RGB modes according to the application.
FYI both modes were exactly the same in LR, and the generated profiles corresponded with the standard, so my (old) Colormunki initialisation could not be the fault.

But according to the manual Colornavigator can only be used in one of the CAL modes.
I made a profile in CAL1 (Monitor Native 120 cd/m2 6500K as my old settings) and this seemed to improve the situation.

As can be seen here the CAL1 profile (green) is much wider than the sRGB (yellowisch green) and Adobe RGB (magenta).

I still don't understand all this and have questions too about the white point for printer profiling - I always used 6500K while it seems to be 5500K.

Coloredge.jpg
 
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Ink stained Fingers

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That's a wide gamut monitor indeed you got there, the monitor should not be a limiting factor even for the display of the most saturated colors.
I still don't understand all this and have questions too about the white point for printer profiling - I always used 6500K while it seems to be 5500K.
You probably refer to the D50/5000K or D65/6500K settings for the default color temp/white point of your profiles, it's about the most likely viewing conditions for your prints - more or less daylight vs. incandescent light. You are basically free to choose either one - or any other viewing condition like neon lamps or other more exotic conditions as it would fit in average, D50 is the most popular, but it's basically your choice how you think you can get the best prints. It may need specific attention when it comes to B/W prints or toned prints, color shifts may become more visible on those than on regular images.
If you were to write a book and add pictures you may get some rules by the printing company like color space - D50 - data format and some more parameters so that they don't need to readjust your document to their color mgmt settings.
 
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palombian

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Thanks, @Ink stained Fingers.

I probably also was troubled by viewing prints under a Truelight 6500K tube (sold in nature products shops to complement daylight in winter, not for photography).
At this moment, at a window against the rainy sky, and with "Simulate paper and ink" checked the soft proofing looks acceptable.
On my previous monitor "paper and ink" looked too dull.
I often have been misled by soft proofing and viewing prints in the evening. Trusting the printer profile and wait until next morning was the best in most cases.
Maybe I should buy/build a soft box ?

In the CAL1 mode most applications seem to show correct colours.
My photos on Flickr and other photo web sites look correct (so I suppose the monitor converts to sRGB).
I can see more details than before.
The display is much more even than my Flexscan.
For what the CS2420 is sold at this moment I think it is worth the money.
 
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