My Next Fast CoreXY Printer : Bambu Labs X1 / P1S Creality K1 Qidi X-MAX 3 ?

[Tony4597]

If you are having problems with quality using PLA on your current printer, I’d suggest you experiment more because there’s no reason why PLA can’t print lots of things that can stand heat and water..

Even if you get a new printer, that won’t solve your problem, not will using other filaments such as ABS and others, in fact that may even make your problems worse, small cheap 3D printers can make items just as good as their more expensive big sisters.. (It uses exactly the same principal only smaller)

Thingiverse are great for all the things you can’t make yourself, but you still need to learn to make your own projects in time, use the Thingiverse objects by all means until you can get them to work the way their suppose too, failure is not acceptable, just keep trying, it will get better.. (It’s best to start small..)

(This was made with PLA)
View attachment 15769
P.S. Not the dog..

Thank you for your thoughtful advice which is much appreciated. That lamppost is fantastic and a real credit to your expertise. I bet you could also model the dog - surely TPU filament would be the way to go 😀😉

I bought the Geetech as it was cheap and thought that it would make a good starter to at least learn on. I have only ever used PLA and the majority of prints have proved to be at least acceptable. Problems experienced I have chalked up to lack of knowledge on my part. When I find them I will post some images of some of the items I have printed the faults I have found and what I think I should have done to correct them in the first place.

Only now am I able to find a permanent space away from the spare bedroom in the garage to place the printer. This will please SWMBO no end

I intend to design my own projects, I am quite comfortable (not expert!) with 3d CAD and have access to Solidworks and Turbocad and have flirted with Fusion 360

 

[Tony4597]

It seems that I'll be starting the year with one of those 'I.disagree.with.the.Hat' posts. Almost forgot about them.

I wouldn’t advice PLA for outdoor prints enduring hot weather and lots of sun. If you lived in Arizona instead of Ireland, the arms of your magnificent 3D lamppost would be sagging almost to ground level. Even in Ireland, I assume that you installed internal metal rods or similar to add enough strength to the structure.
@Tony4597, if you have issues with PLA, you must solve first those problems before trying more challenging stuff. Printing reliably ABS, nylon or CF filaments requires a considerable investment in time (learning curve) and money. Probably much more of the first.

If you were more specific about the kind of problems you had (apart from heat/UV) and the budget you consider for a new printer, we’d be able to give you more accurate information. Don’t expect a free lunch, though. I started 3D because of people here who ‘infected’ me with this virus (and I’m grateful to them for that). Beware nevertheless, when the 3D disease bites hard, there’s little hope of cure.

Thank you for your advice. My limited experience with PLA has mostly been positive and certainly helped my learning of the art of FDM printing; still have a long way to go. My thoughts about ABS, ASA etc relate to items that may be exposed to extreme conditions such as heat and moisture such as may be found in bathrooms, saunas, and marine/boating environments

I have found some images of items I have produced and made some notes of where I think I have gone wrong but welcome any suggestions to prevent future issues. All printed in PLA. TBH I am a little embarrassed to show them seeing the standard of work being produced here but...

 

[Smile]

I'm waiting for FLSUN S1 to be reviewed, this is really going to be a gamechanger.

 

[Smile]

This guy after testing P1Ps against his Prusas decided it was worth the risk of adding another 9 P1Ps to his print farm. Shop Nation.

If bambulab P1S or X1C would not use carbon rods as they marketing campaign, would not have problem with ghosting from 100 to 200 mm/s then that would be a contender, however due to lower printing speeds for non PLA technical plastics makes bambulab P1S or X1C unusable.

Also keep in mind that bambulab uses corexy that means dimensional accuracy it can't be compensated in software (slicer). How can this be marketed as printer for engineering then? Print toys yes no problem, but in real word parts they musts fit together, and this printer cant do adjustment to do this.

 

[Tony4597]

I'm waiting for FLSUN S1 to be reviewed, this is really going to be a gamechanger.

Thanks, that looks very interesting with one hell of a specification! Just had a look at this even the T1 should be worth considering.

 

[Smile]

T1 is also nice but they have round print beds so S1 print bet allows to print 22x22cm square objects, T1 don't know see https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/square-in-a-circle to calculate that. T1 is very limited then.

 

[Epatcola]

Lol at someone complaining about inaccuracy and calibration of core xy printers while telling us a new delta printer is going to be a game changer.

Also complaining about bias of 'influencer' videos while posting (completely unbiased - lol) videos from the machine manufacturer.

This guy has Prusa and Flsun printers he no longer bothers using Major Hardware.

 

[The Hat]

Even in Ireland, I assume that you installed internal metal rods or similar to add enough strength to the structure.

The PLA works in the sun.. JUST, my lamp gets very hot to a point where I can’t put my hand on it, because it gets too hot, I didn’t use any metal rods to support the arms at all, but if there is going to be a reprint, then I’ll use white PLA and support the arms next time..

am a little embarrassed to show them seeing the standard of work being produced here but...

That’s hog wash, we all started out much the same as you, and learned from our many, many mistakes, that's the fun of 3D printing, no ones an expert..

From what I can see with this print, is the filament looks to have moisture in it, because one of my white filament rolls has much the same issue, and I’m wait to dry it out to make a two colour sign..
Some images will lift from the bed from time to time, so a keep the bed as clean as possible, I use window cleaner and counter top cleaner on mine, then spray with 3DLAC and that seems to work for a half dozen prints..

 

[Tony4597]

The PLA works in the sun.. JUST, my lamp gets very hot to a point where I can’t put my hand on it, because it gets too hot, I didn’t use any metal rods to support the arms at all, but if there is going to be a reprint, then I’ll use white PLA and support the arms next time..

View attachment 15775
That’s hog wash, we all started out much the same as you, and learned from our many, many mistakes, that's the fun of 3D printing, no ones an expert..

From what I can see with this print, is the filament looks to have moisture in it, because one of my white filament rolls has much the same issue, and I’m wait to dry it out to make a two colour sign..
Some images will lift from the bed from time to time, so a keep the bed as clean as possible, I use window cleaner and counter top cleaner on mine, then spray with 3DLAC and that seems to work for a half dozen prints..
View attachment 15776

Thanks for the tips. Had not even considered moisture as a possible issue and will look into 3DLAC 👍

 

[Smile]

Lol at someone complaining about inaccuracy and calibration of core xy printers while telling us a new delta printer is going to be a game changer.

Well at least you can calibrate deltas with klipper, unlike corexy it is not possible to calibrate it. Like at all, because 2 motors are used for single axis.