My Canon PRO-10 on refill ink - and what happened to my PRO-9500II

Artur5

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IMHO if you’re making all your profiles with your particular Color Munki, the results can be extrapolated with a decent accuracy. For sure, much better than judging the print tests by eyesight.

Now, when I replaced OEM red with the Octoink red that you send me, the gamut of the two profiles weren’t what I expected beforehand. Almost no difference in the red area, but quite different in the violet-blue and green zone. See the picture below (outlined in red, gamut of the profile with OEM red and outlined in blue, profile with Octoink red).
That seems odd but my eye tells me that OEM red looks more vibrant and saturated in the prints although gamut curves might say otherwise.
In all likelihood, replacing my copy of the CM with yours would have changed the resulting profiles in one way or another, albeit within a moderate margin, That’s what @Andreas has been explaining in the “calabrations” thread. We can’t use a Color Munki seriously in the professional sector, where an accurate reference is needed.
Anyway, from a ‘bang for the buck’ point of view, it’s good enough for me. I keep telling myself that it would be absurd to spend 2-3K on a high grade spectro. That’s much more than what I paid for the whole bundle : Pro10s, refill supplies, third party ink and photo paper.

orpink-opink.jpg
 

The Hat

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Most variation seems to be in the magenta, red and (less) yellow.
I’ve noticed you never mention cyan, it plays a huge part in your colour formula because it causes the biggest variations in the magenta, the individual red colour play a very small part and is only used as a spot colour, and never on its own..
 

Artur5

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I wouldn’t know about the Pro9500, but my former Pro9000 had red and green inks that were very seldom used, During the whole life of 2 printers I bought only one 100ml bottle or each ink and there was still some left when my second Pro9000 died. Instead, in the Pro10, red is used much more, almost on a pair with cyan and magenta, although less than gray or yellow. You see, in my former post, how swapping one red for another changes the gamut of purples and greens, because the printer uses red mixed with cyan and magenta to make purple and possibly with cyan and yellow to make different shades of green, Only in the areas where red isn’t used at all (pure yellow, magenta or cyan ) the gamut doesn’t changes when switching from OEM to Octoink red
 

palombian

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I’ve noticed you never mention cyan, it plays a huge part in your colour formula because it causes the biggest variations in the magenta, the individual red colour play a very small part and is only used as a spot colour, and never on its own..
You are right, @The Hat.
That's why I was prudent and swapped CMY together to Precision Colors.
Only changing Octo M (by OEM, what I did because of the "magenta problem") was not convincing.
Though as @Artur5 mentioned the stronger red gives deeper violets too (as is visible in the profile and on test charts).
According to Canon red is one of the less used inks in the PRO-10.
 

Artur5

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My findings agree with Canon. R, M and C are the inks less used by my Pro10s, but the differences with other colors aren’t huge. I keep a record of the ink consumed. CO comes first, followed by Y, GY, PC, PM, MBK. PBK, C, R and M.
Let’s say that for every 10 ml of Y or GY I’m consuming aprox. 6 ml of M or R. The other colors (except CO ) are in between.
 

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Fellows, I have a problem:

In the grey background above the birds head you can see horizontal bands.
On high quality it is less but still visible.
Strange enough on the cheap Action paper with Hagaki settings everything is OK.
So I don't think it is a paper transport problem.

Any ideas ?

IMG_20200205_0001.jpg
 

Artur5

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In my monitor the banding is not very apparent. If you hadn’t said that it’s visible in the paper, I’d guess it’s just a slight scanning artifact.
Discarding nozzle problems, and I’m sure you did a nozzle check right after seeing that, my bet it’s a software related issue, either from the driver or the program that you use to edit/print. If it’s not visible with hagaki paper setting, that seems to leave the driver as the most likely culprit ?

Maybe you could send me by PM the original image file and tell me which print settings you used, so we’d see what happens with my Pro10s, inks and software. I’m assuming you used the Pro10 and not the Pro9500.
 

Borut

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I have noticed that the PC
CO is clear color and Octo CO is blury clear.


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