Epson Stylus 1500w - Missing details at 1440 ppi

stratman

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When I open the files they are in TIF format not jpg.
I get JPG when I click either link and then Save As in Windows. What are you using to open or save the file.
 

Gubenco

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Hello @stratman

The small pixel budget: I need to pack a lot of information in very small clusters. Like Icons or micro-printing I need to put maximum detail with the smallest amount of pixels. Each 3d pixel should have more pixels. In the end there will be a huge amount of them, unfortunately only at 720x720ppi.

About printing. I have printed few days ago, a couple of samples at 10x10 cm with 720 dpi! and because I have used the wrong settings (like I did these days) it is missing a lot of detail it translates a blurriness, a 3d image without depth.

Today I have printed at 720 with much better detail than before. Some pictures will look almost as good as 1440 but it will have less depth. I need more but 720 ppi limit won't kill my project.

In this very moment I am searching everywhere for a fast solution to the 720 ppi limit. I wish I could hack the Epson's driver and to write my own pixel rendering algorithm. I am not optimistic I will find soon anything better than I have.
If there was something I should already knew.

I don't know much about the holograms in the link. I suspect the printer is placing the material in a more economic way (here and there) and later they expose it to radiation or something.
 

Gubenco

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Please do not go in circles. I think we've done here. Unless a famous forger comes and says: " Hey, we have a better driver, what resolution you said, 1440? No problem."
 

stratman

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The small pixel budget: I need to pack a lot of information in very small clusters. Like Icons or micro-printing I need to put maximum detail with the smallest amount of pixels. Each 3d pixel should have more pixels.
This does not answer my question about Nearest Neighbor for me. Nearest Neighbor is prey to aliasing and jaggies.

You did not answer what other forms of interpolation you've tried and their results.

All of this should be viewed in the context of the dimensions of the print, not just a test miniature examined under a microscope. I don't know about 3D but in photo image printing, the viewing distance should be considered for what a sufficient/efficient DPI setting should be. The greater the viewing distance the lower the DPI can be for desired result in a print. Also, the tiny test files you posted may not have the amount of data to make sharp looking large sized prints. There just isn't nearly enough data to extrapolate to meter's sized images.

As for your use of PPI (Pixels per inch), that is a digital media term, not an inkjet printer term where the term DPI (Dots per inch) should be used. Even Epson refers to your printer's resolution at 5760 x 1440 DPI. The 5760 refers to 4 passes of the print head horizontally (2 if bidirectional) with each pass the nozzles laying down additional droplets (over the same unit area) as small as 1.5 Picoliters size depending on your chosen quality setting and paper choice. In essence, the 5760 number is marketing since it requires a wee bit of firmware trickery.

Looking at your printer's manual, you can bump up to the greatest Print Density of 5760 x 1440 selecting the appropriate Quality Setting. You also should use the specific paper that this print density requires or else resolution will most like degrade (blotting/bleeding of droplets). Since you cannot use Vector Graphics then your Rasterized image sent to the printer should be scaled to what the DPI the printer uses - 360 or 720 DPI for your printer - to keep things sharp as can be given the circumstances. The less the printer has to scale your image before printing it the better. Qimage can make this an easier task. Also,

1630797305367.png



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The Hat

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About printing. I have printed few days ago, a couple of samples at 10x10 cm with 720 dpi! and because I have used the wrong settings (like I did these days) it is missing a lot of detail it translates a blurriness, a 3d image without depth.
I have used PNG files and turned them into 3D images, and yes it’s a crap shoot and you need to experiment a lot to get what you want, sometimes it’s impossible, but at least you tried. Smaller PNG files do make better 3D images..

Now for the bad news, you cannot expect to mix inkjet printer images and 3D images and hope for a satisfactory result, it would be like trying to grow grass on the Moon, you got plenty of light and heat, but Feck all water..

Please do not go in circles. I think we've done here. Unless a famous forger comes and says: " Hey, we have a better driver, what resolution you said, 1440? No problem."
Inkjet printers cannot be altered to work with/for 3D and that is fact, so stop hoping you’ll find the answer, because you won’t .… Sorry but that’s life..

P.S. Can we end this thread, because its going nowhere.. Life can be a Bitch and then you die..
 
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Ink stained Fingers

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Lenticular lenses - there is so much stuff published on the internet how to create and print such images - including guidelines how to use photoshop for that job. I still don't know after all these postings a very basic piece of information - the lens grating of the lens foil you are planning to use for your images - e.g. 50 lenses per inch or ????? and how many images you want to use to create the 3D effect 2 or 3 or 4 or more ???? This would drive the width of the image strips and drive the dimensional parameters for the editing of the composite image. And this would show if an inkjet printer can do your images or not.
 

maximilian59

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I get JPG when I click either link and then Save As in Windows. What are you using to open or save the file.
Just downloaded it with my iPad as a TIF. First I saved it to my own Dropbox.
 

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stratman

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Just downloaded it with my iPad as a TIF. First I saved it to my own Dropbox.
Using Windows. No Dropbox or any cloud drive.

If I Right click on the link and Save As I can save it as a TIF file but they are ~42x KB.

If I Left click on the link it will display the image as a JPG.

Mac 1 : Windows 0

:idunno
 

stratman

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What happens if you just double klick?
Double click what?

As far as I can see, every action is done with a single mouse button click, whether to open the linked file (left mouse button) or open a pop up menu (right mouse button) to then perform a single left mouse button action of some sort like Save As.
 

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