220/221 cartridge clearance

[lowepg]

The Hat:

I'd rather take a poll between you, me and your special color coded bottle top refilling bottles.


[url]http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/uploads/thumbs/2171_bm_bottles_lineup_rgb_2.jpg[/url]

Send me a refill kit for THAT!

Ill show you the "Irish Method" for UNFILLING containers!

 

[stratman]

Ill show you the "Irish Method" for UNFILLING containers!

I like my method just fine but I'm willing to learn other's ways. Every now and then things get a little on the rocks and noisy so maybe you can show me how to keep it neat.

 

[joseph1949]

To: mrelmo

Concerning the clearance problem on CLI-221/220PGBK carts I have the same problem on my MX870.

Mrelmo, I talked to you before about this problem on a previous thread and since then I have gained some insight on the problem.

On my MX870 I have two problems: clearance and jerkiness. If you use a plug that has a thick cap the clearance problem will pull the plug from the cart. If you use a thin cap the jerkiness problem will eventually loosen the plug. You will have ink leakage and you could lose the plug into the bowels of the printer. I used InkTec plugs. The plugs are made-up of soft rubber. I have lost two plugs. They disappeared into the bowels of the printer. Since they were soft rubber I have had no problems (knock on wood).

You cannot successfully thin the cap on the soft rubber InkTec plug, but you could thin the cap on a hard plastic plug. The cap should be no more than 1/32 of an inch high1/64 would be better. Even if you thin the cap you still will have the jerkiness problem to contend with. So, What to do?

You could use hot glue to fasten the thin cap plug to the cart. Do not cover the cap with glue. You should use a small amount of hot glue under the cap. Place a small amount on the side of the hole (and I mean small!!!!) and place the plug into the hole. The thin cap and the hot glue should eliminate the problems of clearance and jerkiness. You will need to keep an eye on the plug for ink leakage. If you see any leakage you will need to repair the plug immediately. You do not want the leakage and you do not want to lose the HARD PLASTIC plug to the bowels of the printer.

Note: If you keep having a leakage problem you can cover the cap with a very thin layer of glue.

I have decided not to use a hard plastic plug. I could use the soft rubber plug from InkTec with the hot glue under the plug, but I believe removing the hot glue from the soft rubber plug will damage the plug. I have decided to skip the plug altogether. I just use hot glue. Here is how I do it:

Caution: I would use the german method if you have a clearance/jerkiness problem. My method is for those who need to use the top-fill method.

1. You should have an empty, virgin OEM Canon cart. There should be no hole on top of the cart (I am not counting the original fill hole).

2. Make a hole on top of the ink tank. You can use the original fill hole if you wish, but be careful. (Some people on this forum will tell you to not use the original fill hole. These people should speak up and express their opinion.) The location of the new hole should be just to the right of the fill hole (for orientation the sponge inlet should be on the bottom and on the left). The new hole should not touch the fill hole. Use two new drill bitsa starter bit and the larger bit for making the hole diameter. New means sharp. Do not force the bit through the plastic. Use a battery operated drill. The drill should be set on the lowest torque/lowest speed setting. Now you can drill the hole.

3. The diameter of the hole should be just big enough to allow the needle into the hole. When you fill the ink tank with ink allow extra time for the air to escape from the tanksmall hole=longer escape time.

4. After you have filled the ink tank to 3/4 full you can cover the hole with hot glue. The hole should be as small as possible (just a little bit bigger than the needle). The holes in my carts are 5/16 of an inch in diameter. I made the holes this size because of the InkTec plugs. With a hole this size you could allow glue into the tank. Also, if you are not lucky when you pull the hot glue from the hole you will leave a bit of glue in the holenot good. You can remove the glue by heating the tip of a paper clip and placing the tip into the hole. Let the glue cool around the wire without moving the wire (you need very steady hands) for at least five minutes. After the five minutes place the cart to one side and let the wire/glue cool for at least 10 minutes. After the 10 minutes pull on the wire with some large pliers. If you are lucky the glue plug will come out. A small hole will not allow glue into the tank and you should have no glue remaining in the hole after you remove the hot glue plug.

5. After you place the hot glue over the hole you will need to compress the hot glue so you will have a thin layer of glue as a cap. This is tricky. You will need to test the glue for stickiness. Just as the glue is no longer sticky you can compress the glue with your finger. You will have only have a small window of time for this action.

6. When it becomes time to remove the glue you can you use cotton swaps with isopropyl alcohol. Wet the glue with the alcohol. Give enough time for the alcohol to loosen the glue. I use a small flat blade screwdriver as a tool to loosen the glue. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!

7. Or you can use the german methodhighly recommended!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

8. Now wasnt that simple.


Thank you.

 

[The Hat]

joseph1949
Why dont you dispense of the plug and just use the wax, I do and it makes a great seal,
ask stratman he knows a little bit about pulling out plugs..
http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=45254#p45254

 

[joseph1949]

To: The Hat

Never mind. My bad!!!!!!

Here is something for your Scottish friends.

Question: Why do the Scots wear kilts?

Answer: A zipper would scare the sheep!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you.

P.S. At least the the joke is funny!!!

 

[stratman]

It's friday, so come on over lads and we'll "refill" with uncle The Hat's special universal ink set.

joseph1949:

The Hat speaks the truth. Hot wax alone can work perfectly to seal the refill hole. I have a couple glued and work flawlessly for over a year now. I did have one I think lost its seal and caused a very slow leak during storage. Removal of the wax was simple and fast. I ended up using one of Mikling's silicone plugs to seal the hole thereafter. Not exactly a solution for your issue, but, websnail has written that he may be getting in some slim headed plugs that might work well for you.

 

[mrelmo]

if i went with the wax i think i would more than likely end up pushing the wax into the cartridge, however i noticed that several people have been using the foil tape to close the hole on the german method, that is the reason i stopped filling via the german method because i was getting leaks from the needle hole and the hole was just large enough for the needle. anyways i think that i may try a small hole above the reservoir a little bigger than a needle and see if the foil tape will keep a seal. or maybe the hole will be big enough to use one of those wooden dip sticks to check the ink level LOL

 

[stratman]

the reason i stopped filling via the german method because i was getting leaks from the needle hole and the hole was just large enough for the needle.

I do not have your model printer or use your model cartridges, but i find it highly unusual that you get leaking from the Durchstich hole. Something else must be in play.

1) Thermal extreme or cycling between hot and not hot.

2) An air leak somewhere else in the cartridge.

3) Durchstich hole too big.

4) Agitation of the cartridge(s) from to much acceleration or acceleration-deceleration. Your cartridges banging around from lack of clearance with the screw or plug head might be the source of agitation.

5) Squeezing of the cartridge(s).

6) Overfilled cartridge.

7) Not an OEM cartridge.

8) Something else...???

I have had zero leaks from any Durchstich modified cartridge while in the print head AFAIK. I'd bet uncle The Hat's personal refill stash that most haven't either without an additional factor (as mentioned above) in the mix. These cartridges, with unsealed refill hole, do not leak under standard operating Durchstich method conditions. (Cue ghwellsjr )

 

[stratman]

Forgot to mention... If foil tape works... do it. Whatever works for you is good. There is no one "right" way, a beautiful aspect of refilling - individuality.

Go on mrelmo, express yourself! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYi8lA9y_BY&feature=related)

 

[ghwellsjr]

I have had zero leaks from any Durchstich modified cartridge while in the print head AFAIK. I'd bet uncle The Hat's personal refill stash that most haven't either without an additional factor (as mentioned above) in the mix. These cartridges, with unsealed refill hole, do not leak under standard operating Durchstich method conditions. (Cue ghwellsjr )

Until it happens to you, you probably will never believe that an OEM cartridge refilled via the German method could ever leak out of the refill hole, but it happened to me, so I'm a believer. There is no reason why you shouldn't seal the German refill hole.