Bed Adhesion - tricks and tips?

Nifty

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by the time you have selected the Micro card to print and apply the glue
That assumes I'm using SD card and reapplying glue, but I print from USB and haven't yet had to reapply glue (after like 15 prints so far) ;)
 

Redbrickman

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Yeah, I'm avoiding that at all costs. I don't have time to wait for the bed to heat up. Hell, I barely have patience for the nozzle to heat up! ;)


Interesting! I've been shocked at how many prints I can get without having to either re-apply glue, refresh the glue, clean the bed, etc. I'm really wishing I had given this a solid go before. I think the main issue before was the wrong glue. :(


Probably, but since I never heat the bed, it's not applicable to my case. I do love the videos where guys print on a hot bed, then come back to a cooled bed / print and it's released itself automatically once it's cooled. That's pretty neat.

Ideally, here's what I'd like to do/have:
  1. A magnetic removable bed like Angus has here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eimw1ZWdrY4
  2. A metal plate that has a surface that will basically be similar to printing on cold glass with gluestick
Maybe I can find some plate metal (or even better, spring steel) to test out!


McMaster's in USA sell spring steel sheets and I'm sure I found a 12 x 12 sheet some time ago when researching mag beds but discounted it as the shipping was horrendous. I used a sheet of 430 stainlesss steel instead, it performs like normal mild steel, that is it is just as attracted to the magnets as normal steel. It's a bit too thick to flex easily (0.7mm) but works. 0.45mm has been recommended by some people as a good thickness that flexes but is still stiff enough to resist deformation. I think the Prusa Mk3 uses something around that thickness.

I bought some magnetic vinyl sign material which is self-adhesive on one side and stuck it to the CR-10 alu bed. Beforehand I shimmed the centre of the alu bed to try and get it as flat as possible, the rest is taken out by my BL touch & bed levelling. There are two types of vinyl sign material on sale here in UK - normal and "motorway grade" I chose the motorway versiona As it's supposed to stick to the van or car at up to 70 MPH, and has super strong attraction.

I've used this now for 4-5 months with a PEI sheet stuck to the top of the stainless sheet and it's really great. Once the print is cooled a little just flex the sheet, turn 90 degress and flex again and off comes the part.

I do not print anything with a bed temp > 60C. Above that temp may affect the magnetism.
 

Nifty

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Thanks for all that great info!

I think I might be getting ahead of myself. I should probably "stick" with the glass / gluestick process for a bit before I go out venturing into new waters.
 

The Hat

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I should probably "stick" with the glass / gluestick

I’m STICKING with the glass kitchen cutting board, plus its looks the business...
Untitled-1.jpg
 

Redbrickman

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I'm still content with my magnetic plate and PEI - parts just lift off when cool and the plate is flexed, no glue, spray or anything else. When I'm printing wing parts for 3D Model aircraft the trailing edge needs extra adhesion and I use some 3D LAC spray
 

The Hat

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The closer the nozzle is to the bed surface, the better the print will stay stuck down, regardless of what other methods anyone might use, just as long as it doesn’t grind a furrow into it... :oops:
 

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