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Bed Adhesion - tricks and tips?

Discussion in '3D Printer Models / Reviews / Experiences' started by Redbrickman, Dec 10, 2017.

  1. Jun 28, 2018
    Nifty

    Nifty Printer Master Administrator

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    That assumes I'm using SD card and reapplying glue, but I print from USB and haven't yet had to reapply glue (after like 15 prints so far) ;)
     
    The Hat likes this.
  2. Jun 29, 2018
    Redbrickman

    Redbrickman Printer Master

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    McMaster's in USA sell spring steel sheets and I'm sure I found a 12 x 12 sheet some time ago when researching mag beds but discounted it as the shipping was horrendous. I used a sheet of 430 stainlesss steel instead, it performs like normal mild steel, that is it is just as attracted to the magnets as normal steel. It's a bit too thick to flex easily (0.7mm) but works. 0.45mm has been recommended by some people as a good thickness that flexes but is still stiff enough to resist deformation. I think the Prusa Mk3 uses something around that thickness.

    I bought some magnetic vinyl sign material which is self-adhesive on one side and stuck it to the CR-10 alu bed. Beforehand I shimmed the centre of the alu bed to try and get it as flat as possible, the rest is taken out by my BL touch & bed levelling. There are two types of vinyl sign material on sale here in UK - normal and "motorway grade" I chose the motorway versiona As it's supposed to stick to the van or car at up to 70 MPH, and has super strong attraction.

    I've used this now for 4-5 months with a PEI sheet stuck to the top of the stainless sheet and it's really great. Once the print is cooled a little just flex the sheet, turn 90 degress and flex again and off comes the part.

    I do not print anything with a bed temp > 60C. Above that temp may affect the magnetism.
     
    Nifty and stratman like this.
  3. Jun 29, 2018
    Nifty

    Nifty Printer Master Administrator

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    Thanks for all that great info!

    I think I might be getting ahead of myself. I should probably "stick" with the glass / gluestick process for a bit before I go out venturing into new waters.
     
  4. Jun 30, 2018
    The Hat

    The Hat Printer VIP Moderator

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    I’m STICKING with the glass kitchen cutting board, plus its looks the business...
    Untitled-1.jpg
     
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  5. Jul 12, 2018
    Nifty

    Nifty Printer Master Administrator

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    Well, I know I'm now FULLY committed to glass / glue. I just bought this 12 pack of purple glue-sticks for $3.49: https://amzn.to/2NatJ6e

    ... and when I REALLY get into this, I'll get the 60 pack for $15.49!! ;) https://amzn.to/2L9UiYQ

    upload_2018-7-12_2-32-42.png
     
  6. Jul 12, 2018
    The Hat

    The Hat Printer VIP Moderator

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    @Nifty, Would this post require It’s own Sticky.... ? :oops: :lol: :hugs
     
    Nifty, stratman and PeterBJ like this.
  7. Jul 12, 2018
    PeterBJ

    PeterBJ Printer VIP Platinum Printer Member

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    Nifty likes this.
  8. Jul 12, 2018
    Nifty

    Nifty Printer Master Administrator

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    The Hat likes this.
  9. Jul 17, 2018
    Redbrickman

    Redbrickman Printer Master

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    I'm still content with my magnetic plate and PEI - parts just lift off when cool and the plate is flexed, no glue, spray or anything else. When I'm printing wing parts for 3D Model aircraft the trailing edge needs extra adhesion and I use some 3D LAC spray
     
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  10. Jul 17, 2018
    The Hat

    The Hat Printer VIP Moderator

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    The closer the nozzle is to the bed surface, the better the print will stay stuck down, regardless of what other methods anyone might use, just as long as it doesn’t grind a furrow into it... :oops:
     
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