Pro-100 Ink Usage And Profile

wcandrews@sccoast.net

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I have been keeping s spreadsheet about the ink usage of the Pro-100. The table doesn't format well on this forum so I have uploaded the file as a PDF if you desire to see it.

The results are quite impressive. There is a total of 4416 sq. in. of color area and includes 43-8.5 x 11 sheets and 4-13 x 19 sheets.

As suggested before, the light gray caused the first warning. As will be my normal practice, I'll reset and refill all eight carts at this point.

I have been using the Precision Colors profiles with OEM ink, and they are a fairly close match for the OEM ink. This last batch of about 20 shots were of fall color in the North Carolina mountains. The colors of the prints looked good. but were not as good a match to the monitor as I require. They are good enough to keep using for non-critical work until I am on all Precision Colors ink. At that time. I'll make my own profiles with xRite iT1 stuff.

This really is a grand printer, and by the way, it is the quietest printer I have ever used.

Good Luck!
Wil
 

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PeterBJ

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I have been keeping s spreadsheet about the ink usage of the Pro-100. The table doesn't format well on this forum so I have uploaded the file as a PDF if you desire to see it.

My solution to this problem is to print the spreadsheet, and scan the print and upload the scan as a .jpg file:

IS_Inks_Table1.jpg

Glad to hear that the new Pro-100 is a really good printer and refill friendly too :)
 

wcandrews@sccoast.net

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As reported before, I received my first low ink warning after a lot of prints. I also reported that the Precision colors profiles were good with OEM ink, they weren’t perfect.

So now it was time to prepare the OEM carts and refill for the first time. My long standing practice is to top up all carts when one needs to be refilled, and this time I would be preparing the carts for the German method as each cart was refilled.

I use a skinny ice pick to create the hole in the cart and currently still use syringes (I’ll get the squeeze caps when Mike has them in stock again). I can’t imagine not using the German method. It took less than 10 seconds to create the hole, and less than 10 seconds to insert the ink. No caps or plugs needed. No spills or drips. I just took the cart from the printer, reset it, turned it upside down, created the hole, filled the syringe with ink and inserted the ink into the cart. Then just return the cart to the printer, and secured the ink bottle.

The resetter worked to perfection. To make it a little easier, I taped the little insert in place so it wouldn’t come lose.

That all worked grand and all carts showed full and the next print without any head checking, but with Mike’s new profile for Kirkland paper profile, was beautiful.

Did I say Mike’s new profile? Yes indeed! It is orders of magnitude better than his original one. It’s still not perfect for OEM ink (blacks are weak), but I have high hopes for it with Precision Colors ink, which it was created for.

This has all been the most satisfying experience I have ever had with a new printer.

Good Luck to All in this adventure!
Wil
 

stratman

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Precision colors profiles were good with OEM ink, they weren’t perfect.
Nor should one expect them to be since your using a different inkset.

It is a good feeling to see that first beautiful print when using Precision Colors ink with the appropriate paper and Mikling's printer profile. :love
 

wcandrews@sccoast.net

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I have now printed several prints with PC profiles with ink carts containing a mixture of OEM ink and PC ink. I am at one refill. Note that PC never claimed that their profiles were correct for OEM ink.

The prints with PC profiles and OEM ink and my current mixture of OEM ink and PC ink are good, but up to my requirements. I expect things to change when all colors are completely PC inks.

The only proper comparison is with the display on a color corrected monitor. The colors in these prints with the current mix of OEM and PC ink are not optimum in black, blue, and green, and most all shadow areas. the other colors are outstanding. the blacks are muddy toward brown and the blue of blue skies is are biased toward purple.

I have made test prints with Canon Pro Luster, Canon Semi-Gloss, and Kirkland Glossy. The results are close with all papers, but the best seems to be Canon Pro Luster by a very small margin.

I really like prints with proper colors and I must decide whether to just let it ride until all the ink is PC and trust the PC profiles -- many prints-- or to make profiles for the current mix and future mixes -- many profiles. The other option is to purge my current carts, make new profiles and start from scratch.

Good Luck!
Wil
 

The Hat

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Well I think you have answered your own question as to what you should do…
 

Roy Sletcher

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I have now printed several prints with PC profiles with ink carts containing a mixture of OEM ink and PC ink. I am at one refill. Note that PC never claimed that their profiles were correct for OEM ink.

The prints with PC profiles and OEM ink and my current mixture of OEM ink and PC ink are good, but up to my requirements. I expect things to change when all colors are completely PC inks.

The only proper comparison is with the display on a color corrected monitor. The colors in these prints with the current mix of OEM and PC ink are not optimum in black, blue, and green, and most all shadow areas. the other colors are outstanding. the blacks are muddy toward brown and the blue of blue skies is are biased toward purple.

I have made test prints with Canon Pro Luster, Canon Semi-Gloss, and Kirkland Glossy. The results are close with all papers, but the best seems to be Canon Pro Luster by a very small margin.

I really like prints with proper colors and I must decide whether to just let it ride until all the ink is PC and trust the PC profiles -- many prints-- or to make profiles for the current mix and future mixes -- many profiles. The other option is to purge my current carts, make new profiles and start from scratch.

Good Luck!
Wil



Interesting as we all record our experiences with the the new ink and Precision Colour Profiles.

I have now churned through the original; OEM carts and 3 refills.

Also made my own colormunki profiles, and this weekend downloaded and used the PC profile for Red River Polar matte. A paper I use frequently and am very familiar with. I know what to expect and what is possible with it.

Unfortunately my results are inconclusive at this stage because I ran into a small hiccup with my yellow cartridge, and ended up with one OEM yellow used in the test print. Even then I was impressed with the CC profile. probably better than my Colormunkio profile. Slightly more saturated, with better tonal transitions. Grey ramp clearly visible from step 8 to 251. Not bad for an uncoated matte.

Overall PC Profile image was slightly warmer than my Colormunki Profile. This could be due to the OEM yellow I had to use at the time. I had to press on with my prints for upcoming club competition, but am now trying to resolve my yellow cartridge problem.

I could say more but It is always difficult to convey image and colour data in a verbal messages, and my testing is ongoing.

Will add more in a later post. Read the upcoming exciting (NOT) post - TALE OF TWO CARTRIDGES - I learned some lessons from the experience.


Roy Sletcher
I shoot people with a large Canon, and frequently cut of their head and limbs.
 

mikling

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With all my new Profiles from this table http://www.precisioncolors.com/PC42ICC.html , all the Canon papers look essentially the same colorwise. This is what profiles is supposed to accomplish and it does. The only intrinsic difference is the tonality of the highlight (paper white bias) and its effect on the tonality on B&W. There are very small detail performance differences in the dark shadows, but you need to go hunting to find them. I suspect the mixture of the ink plays a large part. If you need consistent output, then theoretically until all the inks become pure, each refill will require a new profile especially if you're picky about colors. To come to a consistent point, you need to flush to attain consistency.
 
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