Redbrickman
Printer Master
If you are totally obsessed by print quality and want to mess with Marlin values here is a PID guide....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APzJfYAgFkQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APzJfYAgFkQ
That was my reaction. On the other hand I've watched a lot of Thomas Sandlerer's videos and they're pretty good, so when he says you can improve the quality of your prints I listen.Doesn't it seem to be a bit of overkill?
No idea as I am still learning all about 3D printers before I decide which to buy, but I posted it here for those that are technically further down the road and may want to give it a whirl. As for the too many knobs to turn, expect lots of that if you want to get best quality from a 3D printerDoesn't it seem to be a bit of overkill? Is there any actual correspondence between the proportional/integral/derivative algorithms of a PID controller and the actual process dynamics of the hot end or bed heater? I'd be concerned about having too many knobs to turn.
I added Raspberry Pi/Octoprint a few days ago. It's greatI'm still on the fence with stuff like adding a Raspberry Pi, Octoprint, etc.
I'd read that different colours are better at different temperatures, but I've only used black and fluorescent green so far. I've not seen much difference.I’m still learning how to control the head and platform temp manually myself, to get the best out of my machine, but what I’m finding is that colour matters too.
The latest version of Windows 10 lets you dictate when update reboots occur.I hadn't dared to print via USB from my main PC in case Windows Update rebooting or whatever stopped my print