Is there a place to buy Genuine Canon ink in bulk?

maximilian59

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Short reply:
OEM ink on bad paper: Does it help? Yes, the ink is what fades
Cheap in ink on OEM paper: Does it help? A little, little, little bit. It is still the ink which fades and cheap inks much much faster.
Cheap ink on cheap paper: Does it help? Yes, if you plan to change your pictures often and throe them in a bin every few months.
Standard PET materials without special additives don't shield UV well and the foils are normally too thin for this protection. If it is cheaper including the work, I don't know.
It is easy to make a test by yourself. Buy some different ink sets, print a well down picture, put one half to a window and put the other in dark storage. If the ink is bad, you even don't have to wait a month to see a difference. You are from Brasil and soon in summer time. If you find one, which shows no easily detectable difference, I would say it is good for at least one year indoors. But I wouldn't call them long lasting prints.
This is a personal opinion deviated from my own window tests.
Cheers,
Maximilian
 
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stratman

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maximilian59

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stratman

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it may not matter
What's an extra 200 years between album buddies? ;)

Chromalife 100+? prints displayed in the open, though, lasts substantially less according to Canon.

1632867267721.png



https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/explore/printing-innovations/chromalife

Red River reports Chromalife 100 (no +) is 100 Album years, 30 lightfastness and 10 yeas gas fastness.

https://www.redrivercatalog.com/infocenter/canonchromalife.html
 
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Lelopes

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I have only found a reference to Chromalife 100 without the "+".

https://www.tiendacanon.com.mx/es/catalogo/botella-gi-13-cyan

Do you have a link to where the GI-13 ink is Chromalife 100+?


Sure, but it is in portuguese, it's at the official canon brazilian store: https://www.loja.canon.com.br/pt/canonbr/Garrafa-de-tinta-GI-13-M-MAGENTA. But it is easy to find the ChromaLife 100+ mention there.
Short reply:
OEM ink on bad paper: Does it help? Yes, the ink is what fades
Cheap in ink on OEM paper: Does it help? A little, little, little bit. It is still the ink which fades and cheap inks much much faster.
Cheap ink on cheap paper: Does it help? Yes, if you plan to change your pictures often and throe them in a bin every few months.
Standard PET materials without special additives don't shield UV well and the foils are normally too thin for this protection. If it is cheaper including the work, I don't know.
It is easy to make a test by yourself. Buy some different ink sets, print a well down picture, put one half to a window and put the other in dark storage. If the ink is bad, you even don't have to wait a month to see a difference. You are from Brasil and soon in summer time. If you find one, which shows no easily detectable difference, I would say it is good for at least one year indoors. But I wouldn't call them long lasting prints.
This is a personal opinion deviated from my own window tests.
Cheers,
Maximilian
It is trick... While I can get the ink from canon store, paper is a whole different deal. We just can't find good papers easily in Brazil, You need to order it from the manufacturer and a 10 sheets package from canon papers costs $164.
I am looking for epson papers but can't find them anywhere around here, and I live in São Paulo, which is almost a huge metropolis as it can be.


My latest measurements after a doses of about 15 "megalux hours" show no significant differences on the same papers. Depending on the purpose of the prints it may not matter.

I am actually an architect with a huge interest in fine art and graphical elements.
And I've been thinking on getting more from my printer doing some posters, framing presentation boards (think contest presentation quality) as a gift to my clients, Prints would be framed and kept indoors but it would need to last at least about 2 years since it would be really shameful to give this as a gift, something that sometimes can be even presenting my own work and it gets all faded and smoodge 6 months later. lol
I thought that it would be really interesting for their client to be at their stores, offices, houses and see framed in the wall some nice technical drawing, some beautiful detail about how that place was done.
But Those will not always be presentation boards, I figured out that if sometimes I manage to put my hands on something meaningful for my clients, as a picture from his favorite place, art from a beloved artist bought online, I can always find a way to include that in his space as a surprise. Framing is really cheap around here, but ink and paper on the other hand... lol

Thank you so much for all this effort to help me out. I just got the printer and burned more than $1600
So,while I really want to get the most of it, Being able to not spend so much on cartridges for now ould really be a game changer for me.
 

maximilian59

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What's an extra 200 years between album buddies? ;)

Chromalife 100+? prints displayed in the open, though, lasts substantially less according to Canon.

View attachment 12939


https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/explore/printing-innovations/chromalife

Red River reports Chromalife 100 (no +) is 100 Album years, 30 lightfastness and 10 yeas gas fastness.

https://www.redrivercatalog.com/infocenter/canonchromalife.html
Taking 500lux/10 hours a day with more than 15 Mlx hours I reached already 30 years. The average deltaE2000 is 3-4. That is not that much. It is measurable but whether it is really visible on a print is something different. My testing conditions can be called harsh at least with light intensities up to more than 40.000 lux, temperatures to 40°C and humidity falling down to below 30%. So the samples are really stressed. I am sure what I do is not was Marc from Aardenburg is doing, but differences between bad and good inks show up already in the first weeks. In my professional life as developer and designer we always tested to the minimum requirements. If I were Canon I would do the same. They make a test in their test facilities and tell you some figures. Under same conditions you will get this storage times. And only Canon compares to Canon. Epson does other tests.
The real problem arises when you go away from OEM materials. Non of them compare to OEM. But how bad or good are they and is it enough for what I want to do? I think, that going with Canon Glossy II PP-201 is a good way, even with weaker inks. Didn't test the Semigloss SG-201. Tests at Aardenburg show with a Pro-100 (ChromaLife100+) they are nearby with about 55-60 Mlx hours. So both are good papers.
 

stratman

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in portuguese
I see it in you link. My link to same GI-13 Magenta ink only identifies as Chromalife 100 without the "+".

We have a discrepancy.
 

stratman

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posters, framing presentation boards (think contest presentation quality) as a gift to my clients
Stick with OEM Canon ink for dependable results.

See if the GI-13 inks are cost effective, and if so, start refilling the CLI-151 OEM cartridges if possible.

You will either need a chip resetter specific for your model cartridge or you can swap in a ARC chip on the OEM cartridges.

Or, you can go with an aftermarket cartridge with ARC chips already on them.

To find resetters and arc chips I use Google and search on the term "CLI-151 chip resetter". I did see aftermarket cartridges with ARC chips from Russian AliExpress. I'd rather find something in my home country or on the Chinese original AliExpress.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...dz2AGIQ8ccDegQIDRAI&biw=1560&bih=846&dpr=2.22

If there is no chip resetter or ARC chips to be had then you can override ink level monitoring when the cartridge is marked Empty by the printer. Then you refill. You won't have ink level monitoring but you will be able to refill. Careful to not run out of ink in the cartridge or you could permanently kill nozzles and then your prints will look bad. Stop printing immediately at the first sign of missing ink. Top off all cartridges regularly before they get close to empty.
 

Lelopes

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Stick with OEM Canon ink for dependable results.

See if the GI-13 inks are cost effective, and if so, start refilling the CLI-151 OEM cartridges if possible.

You will either need a chip resetter specific for your model cartridge or you can swap in a ARC chip on the OEM cartridges.

Or, you can go with an aftermarket cartridge with ARC chips already on them.

To find resetters and arc chips I use Google and search on the term "CLI-151 chip resetter". I did see aftermarket cartridges with ARC chips from Russian AliExpress. I'd rather find something in my home country or on the Chinese original AliExpress.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...dz2AGIQ8ccDegQIDRAI&biw=1560&bih=846&dpr=2.22

If there is no chip resetter or ARC chips to be had then you can override ink level monitoring when the cartridge is marked Empty by the printer. Then you refill. You won't have ink level monitoring but you will be able to refill. Careful to not run out of ink in the cartridge or you could permanently kill nozzles and then your prints will look bad. Stop printing immediately at the first sign of missing ink. Top off all cartridges regularly before they get close to empty.

I just got the Gi-13 ink from their website, they are very expensive here, but I wanted the most similar to the cli-151 ink possible so I could refill it and just use the OEM cartridge. But next month I Will try them against the Gi-190 with a new set of cartridges and see if there will be much of a difference. I guess that's the only way on such specific comparison.
Taking 500lux/10 hours a day with more than 15 Mlx hours I reached already 30 years. The average deltaE2000 is 3-4. That is not that much. It is measurable but whether it is really visible on a print is something different. My testing conditions can be called harsh at least with light intensities up to more than 40.000 lux, temperatures to 40°C and humidity falling down to below 30%. So the samples are really stressed. I am sure what I do is not was Marc from Aardenburg is doing, but differences between bad and good inks show up already in the first weeks. In my professional life as developer and designer we always tested to the minimum requirements. If I were Canon I would do the same. They make a test in their test facilities and tell you some figures. Under same conditions you will get this storage times. And only Canon compares to Canon. Epson does other tests.
The real problem arises when you go away from OEM materials. Non of them compare to OEM. But how bad or good are they and is it enough for what I want to do? I think, that going with Canon Glossy II PP-201 is a good way, even with weaker inks. Didn't test the Semigloss SG-201. Tests at Aardenburg show with a Pro-100 (ChromaLife100+) they are nearby with about 55-60 Mlx hours. So both are good papers.
That was my fear, that the paper would be the biggest improvment of them all. I got a small set of 10x15 Glossy II pp-301 to test it out. Will try you method and advices, hopfully the sun here won't will kill this papers on the first day. 🤣
 
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