Spartanking
Newbie to Printing
- Joined
- May 9, 2026
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 6
- Printer Model
- XP15000ET15000XP7100G3260clp31
Hey everyone — I just joined and figured I’d introduce myself by sharing the current lineup in my print lab.
This setup is a mix of modified consumer printers, specialty ink experiments, print-server automation, design workflow, and a whole lot of trial-and-error learning. I’m still building, testing, modifying, and refining everything, but this is where the lab currently stands.
## Epson XP-15000
Role: Full-color pigmented print conversion
This is my dedicated full-color pigmented ink printer. It has been converted with:
- 6-tank external CISS
- 6 × 2 mm ID / 3 mm OD silicone ink lines
- 6 inline one-way check valves
- 6 inline ink filters
- 6 luer-lock connectors
- 6 flow-regulator clamps
- 6 ink dampers
- Printhead nipple-conversion manifold
- Printhead waterproofing sealant
- 6-color pigmented ink set: black, cyan, magenta, yellow, grey, and red
- Chipless firmware
The goal with this machine is high-quality full-color pigmented prints with better ink control, refillability, and modding flexibility than the stock cartridge setup.
## Epson ET-15000
Role: 4-color invisible blacklight / UV-reactive printing
This printer is currently set up for invisible UV-reactive blacklight printing. The ink set includes:
- Invisible UV-reactive cyan blacklight ink, which appears light blue
- Invisible UV-reactive magenta blacklight ink, which appears pink
- Invisible UV-reactive yellow blacklight ink, which appears light green
- Invisible UV-reactive white blacklight ink, which appears bluish white
- 365 nm UV blacklight bar for print-job visibility
This one is dedicated to invisible/blacklight work rather than standard color printing.
## Epson XP-7100
Role: Pigmented grayscale black-and-white print conversion
This printer is being converted into a dedicated pigmented grayscale printer for black-and-white prints. It is not fully completed yet because I’m still waiting on some parts before the actual build begins.
Planned/current parts include:
- 6-tank external CISS
- 6 × 2 mm ID / 3 mm OD silicone tubing
- 6 inline check valves
- 6 inline ink filters
- 6 luer-lock connectors
- 6 flow-regulator clamps
- 6 ink dampers
- 6 individual nozzle ink-column printhead nipple-conversion pieces
- Printhead waterproofing sealant
The ink set will include:
- High-density matte black pigmented ink
- High-density photo black pigmented ink
- Light black pigmented ink
- Light-light black pigmented ink
- Grey pigmented ink
There are no true plug-and-play conversion kits or adapters available for the XP-7100, but I’m fairly sure it uses a printhead very similar to the XP600. Because of that, I’m using XP600-style PNC individual nozzle adapter pieces and dampers.
The XP600 is a 6-channel layout, while the XP-7100 is technically 5-color, but the black cartridge is double-wide and takes up two manifold inlets. My plan is:
2 tanks + 2 lines + 2 dampers + 2 nozzle adapters + 2 printhead inlets = both feeding the same matte black ink
So the final layout should be:
MK + MK / LK / LLK / Grey / PK
That should give me a dedicated grayscale pigmented ink setup with smoother tonal control than a standard CMYK printer.
## Canon PIXMA G3260 MegaTank
Role: Sacrificial experimental printer / custom ink trial platform
This is my test mule. I recently installed a new black printhead and plan to use it for specialty ink experiments.
Current plan:
- Black tank: VersaInk MICR magnetic ink
- Cyan tank: very diluted grey dye ink
- Magenta tank: diluted VersaMark watermark embossing ink
- Yellow tank: Canon PGI-9 clear ink
The goal is to experiment with pseudo-watermark effects and other specialty clear/transparent print effects.
Other methods I may test include:
- Diluted ink-aid solutions
- Diluted clear PVA solution
- Diluted UV epoxy resin with a 365 nm UV lamp and light heat application
- Gloss optimizer
- Gloss overprint
- Diluted clear acrylic topcoat
- Diluted varnish/lacquer
- Clear ink base mixed with different additives
Some of the additives I may test include baby oil, polysorbate 20, Vaseline, IPA, glycerine, propylene glycol, coconut oil, silicone personal lubricant, crystalline minerals like magnesium sulfate, and maybe even lemon juice.
I know some of that is outside the box, but that’s the point. This is a sacrificial printer. If it dies, I’ll replace it and keep experimenting.
## Samsung CLP-315W
Role: Color laser printer for crisp text and simple color work
This is an older color laser printer that I mainly use for crisp black and color text prints.
The only real “mod” I’ve done is software-related. To get it printing from my Mac, I used Pacifist, which lets you install and run older macOS packages that newer macOS versions no longer support. It’s a great piece of software to have around.
The printer itself is old, basic, and limited, but it still prints crisp text, so I don’t see a reason to replace it yet.
Drawbacks:
- USB only
- No Wi-Fi Direct
- No AirPrint
- No Ethernet
- No network printing
- No LCD screen
- Internal paper tray only
- No rear feed
- Basic power switch, one button, and a few LED indicators
It is not fancy, but it does its job well.
## Brother INKvestment MFC-J995DW
Role: High-yield office workhorse
This is my dependable all-in-one office printer.
It has an oversized cartridge/internal tank-style system and is great for:
- Invoices
- Forms
- Labels
- Shipping documents
- General business paperwork
- Low-cost color printing
- Regular dye ink prints
- Testing simple layouts
It is not:
- A high-end photo printer
- A wide-format printer
- A great CISS/modding platform
- Ideal for UV/security ink experimentation
- Built for channel remapping or specialty ink play
It is basically the sensible, dependable document beast of the lab. No excitement, no drama — just regular stuff done well with low ink waste.
## DTF Printer Plans
Former setup: ET-15000 + Canon G3260
When I first got my ET-15000, I used it as a DTF printer with CMY + white, using CMY to create composite black. I quickly realized I was printing black more often than the other colors, so I tried using the Canon PIXMA’s black tank for black DTF ink.
That setup technically worked, but getting two-pass prints to line up between two totally different printer models was not ideal.
Eventually, I clogged the PIXMA black channel and the Epson black/white channel. I fully disassembled, cleaned, and replaced parts on the Epson, then switched it over to 4-color invisible blacklight ink. I also drained, flushed, and replaced the printhead on the PIXMA, which is when I decided to dedicate it as my sacrificial experimental printer.
For my next dedicated DTF build, I’m considering either:
- Epson ET-8550, for easier conversion and cleaner appearance
- Another XP-15000, for lower cost and better aftermarket parts availability
The planned DTF conversion would include:
- Printhead nipple-conversion manifold adapter
- DTF dampers
- Silicone ink tubing
- Wider-ID tubing for the white ink channel
- Inline DTF ink filters
- Inline check valves
- Luer-lock connectors
I may also add diverter valves on each line with Y-connectors, where the second line from each channel connects to a 6-way manifold from a DTF cleaning-solution reservoir. The simpler option would be disconnecting at the luer-lock fittings and connecting to a cleaning manifold or syringe when needed.
### If I use an XP-15000:
I would add either:
- A 6-tank external CISS, with two tanks interconnected for white ink feeding both white channels, plus a circulation pump/system
Or:
- A 4-tank CISS for CMYK
- A larger dedicated white ink reservoir with continuous stirring
- Either two white lines going to the two white dampers, or one larger tube with a Y-splitter feeding both dampers
### If I use an ET-8550:
I would modify the housing and internal tanks while keeping CMY untouched. I would move black to the grey tank position and use the black and photo black tank slots for white.
Ideally, I would modify the tanks to add a small circulation system and pump, interconnecting the two white tanks and routing the circulation lines out the front. The pump could be mounted externally on the shell between the tanks, keeping the visible modifications small and clean.
Right now, I’m leaning toward the ET-8550 because the final build could look much cleaner with fewer obvious external modifications.
## Epson TM-T88V
Role: Classic POS thermal receipt printer
I have three of these. No mods yet and no dedicated purpose yet, but I’m brainstorming uses.
Possible ideas:
- Smart home notification printer
- Physical reminder/alert node
- Shopping list printer when the door opens for the first time each day
- Camera, doorbell, motion, and security alert log printer when I get home
- Morning printer for to-do lists, calendar reminders, horoscope, and missed calls
- Physical notification feed
- Glorified label maker
Basically, I want to turn it into a physical notification app for the house.
## Generic A4 Thermal Printer
Role: Undecided
This is a cheap online wireless A4 thermal printer. Same situation as the TM-T88V: no mods yet and no set purpose.
Possible uses:
- Smart home printouts
- Reminder sheets
- To-do lists
- Labels
- Tattoo stencil transfers, if the model supports it
## Acer Aspire AX1470-EW30P
Role: Custom print-server PC running a custom PrintLab OS repack
This is my dedicated print lab server.
Upgrades:
- 16 GB RAM
- 500 GB SATA SSD
- 1 TB SATA HDD
- Factory USB ports: 2 × USB 3.0, 4 rear USB 2.0, 2 front USB 2.0
- Added PCIe USB 3.0 module to prevent bottlenecks
The Windows ISO was rebuilt with NTLite. I stripped out Microsoft bloat and removed unnecessary software and features.
I added:
- Device drivers
- Device software
- ICC color profiles
- RIP software
- Scanner software
- Editing software
- Design software
- Remote Desktop software
- Apple software
- iPad-related software
- Drivers and utilities for all my printers, cutters, scanners, and devices
I disabled:
- Sleep
- Hibernation
- Windows Defender
- Microsoft account requirement
- Screensaver
- Lock screen
- Sign-in screen
- Microsoft Store
- Automatic updates
- Other unnecessary background features
The install is set up as an unattended installation with one administrator account, auto-login enabled, and Ultimate Performance mode enabled by default.
Partitioning is automated and includes:
- Windows RE
- Windows PE with tools from Sergei Strelec and AnkhTech
- Snapshot backup partition with hourly overwritten snapshots
- Daily backup target to my Mac Pro Proxmox NAS
- Main OS/software partition
- Storage partition
- Scratch partition
The system is designed to run headless.
Visually, it has a custom black theme. I removed the Windows boot logo, added an Apple-style boot logo, moved the Start bar to the top, replaced the Windows icon with an Apple icon, added a dock, and added a vertical Stage Manager-style quick app/folder switcher.
Connected by USB:
- Epson XP-15000
- Epson ET-15000
- Epson XP-7100
- Canon PIXMA G3260
- Samsung CLP-315W
- Brother INKvestment MFC-J995DW
- Cricut Explore 3
- Silhouette Cameo 2
- Genmitsu Kiosk laser engraving machine
- A4 thermal printer
- Epson TM-T88V receipt printer
All Ethernet devices are plugged into a dedicated print lab switch/router. That connects to my main switch and Mac Pro Proxmox network controller, which handles firewall, DNS, VPN, DHCP, VLANs, traffic monitoring, distribution, and Tor routing. The goal is to bridge all servers and connected devices together while still keeping networks separated properly.
## Workflow
I access the Acer print server from my MacBook using Remote Desktop.
Scanning/import:
VueScan on Windows + ET-15000 flatbed
Main design/editing setup:
- 16" M5 Pro MacBook Pro with 48 GB RAM
- External 16" Thunderbolt display
- 13" iPad Pro M4
- Apple Pencil Pro
Screen roles:
- MacBook: keyboard, trackpad, main controller, dock, app switching, menu options, and feature-control display
- External display: fullscreen reference image
- iPad: Sidecar touchscreen display for zooming, resizing, navigation, and touch controls while still using full desktop software
- Apple Pencil: precision design and control tool
Design/software flow:
VueScan on Windows → Adobe Lightroom on macOS → Illustrator → Photoshop → occasional Canva/Picsart/FaceApp → InDesign → RIP software on Windows → ICC profile + printer driver/software → repeat with other printers for multilayer prints → cutting machine if needed → A3 thermal laminator or heat press if needed
## About Me and the Lab
That’s the introduction to my devices, their roles, the modifications I’ve already done, the ones I’m currently working on, and the ones I’m planning.
I’ve worked on a lot of different things over the years: design, fabrication, modifications, chemical solutions, painting, computers, electronics, soldering, circuitry, firmware, programming, concept development, adhesion promotion, mechanical devices, and plenty of other hands-on projects.
If something interests me, I get the urge to learn everything I can about it. I teach myself, test it, improve it, and keep going until I can get it as close to perfect as possible. The problem is that I’m a perfectionist, so even when something works, I’m always thinking about how it could be better.
I’ve only been seriously diving into printing methodology, ink systems, media applications, printer modification, and experimental print workflows for about a year, but it has completely pulled me in. Printing as a whole has an insane number of possibilities, branches, methods, sub-methods, materials, inks, coatings, surfaces, software paths, and hardware paths. It feels almost endless, and that’s exactly what fascinates me.
A couple of years ago, some major family circumstances changed my career path and limited what I could do outside the house. Being on a tight budget, having limited spending money, and being home most of the day gave me a lot of time to keep myself busy, productive, and mentally engaged.
I like projects. I like improving things. I like learning hands-on skills. I like building something real and being able to point at the result afterward.
About a year ago, I had one printer with no ink that I had barely used in years, and when I did use it, it was only for text. Now I have multiple printers, each assigned to a specific task with almost no overlap — and honestly, it still doesn’t feel like enough.
Because of the budget, I can’t just go buy a brand-new 11-channel archival pigment museum printer with multiple black channels and gloss optimizer. I also can’t just go buy a flatbed printer, a commercial DTF printer, or a professional-grade photo printer.
So instead, I’ve been buying used consumer-level printers, researching what each model can actually do, figuring out their strengths and weaknesses, modifying them, testing them, combining workflows, and trying to push them as far as possible.
The funny thing is, these printers can do a lot more than they’re advertised to do if you’re willing to learn their design, experiment, repair them, modify them, and accept some risk.
I’m nowhere near done.
So if anyone has thoughts, comments, feedback, critiques, alternative ideas, advice, answers, questions, theories, or just wants to talk shop about any of this, holler at me.
This isn’t even the tip of the iceberg.
This setup is a mix of modified consumer printers, specialty ink experiments, print-server automation, design workflow, and a whole lot of trial-and-error learning. I’m still building, testing, modifying, and refining everything, but this is where the lab currently stands.
## Epson XP-15000
Role: Full-color pigmented print conversion
This is my dedicated full-color pigmented ink printer. It has been converted with:
- 6-tank external CISS
- 6 × 2 mm ID / 3 mm OD silicone ink lines
- 6 inline one-way check valves
- 6 inline ink filters
- 6 luer-lock connectors
- 6 flow-regulator clamps
- 6 ink dampers
- Printhead nipple-conversion manifold
- Printhead waterproofing sealant
- 6-color pigmented ink set: black, cyan, magenta, yellow, grey, and red
- Chipless firmware
The goal with this machine is high-quality full-color pigmented prints with better ink control, refillability, and modding flexibility than the stock cartridge setup.
## Epson ET-15000
Role: 4-color invisible blacklight / UV-reactive printing
This printer is currently set up for invisible UV-reactive blacklight printing. The ink set includes:
- Invisible UV-reactive cyan blacklight ink, which appears light blue
- Invisible UV-reactive magenta blacklight ink, which appears pink
- Invisible UV-reactive yellow blacklight ink, which appears light green
- Invisible UV-reactive white blacklight ink, which appears bluish white
- 365 nm UV blacklight bar for print-job visibility
This one is dedicated to invisible/blacklight work rather than standard color printing.
## Epson XP-7100
Role: Pigmented grayscale black-and-white print conversion
This printer is being converted into a dedicated pigmented grayscale printer for black-and-white prints. It is not fully completed yet because I’m still waiting on some parts before the actual build begins.
Planned/current parts include:
- 6-tank external CISS
- 6 × 2 mm ID / 3 mm OD silicone tubing
- 6 inline check valves
- 6 inline ink filters
- 6 luer-lock connectors
- 6 flow-regulator clamps
- 6 ink dampers
- 6 individual nozzle ink-column printhead nipple-conversion pieces
- Printhead waterproofing sealant
The ink set will include:
- High-density matte black pigmented ink
- High-density photo black pigmented ink
- Light black pigmented ink
- Light-light black pigmented ink
- Grey pigmented ink
There are no true plug-and-play conversion kits or adapters available for the XP-7100, but I’m fairly sure it uses a printhead very similar to the XP600. Because of that, I’m using XP600-style PNC individual nozzle adapter pieces and dampers.
The XP600 is a 6-channel layout, while the XP-7100 is technically 5-color, but the black cartridge is double-wide and takes up two manifold inlets. My plan is:
2 tanks + 2 lines + 2 dampers + 2 nozzle adapters + 2 printhead inlets = both feeding the same matte black ink
So the final layout should be:
MK + MK / LK / LLK / Grey / PK
That should give me a dedicated grayscale pigmented ink setup with smoother tonal control than a standard CMYK printer.
## Canon PIXMA G3260 MegaTank
Role: Sacrificial experimental printer / custom ink trial platform
This is my test mule. I recently installed a new black printhead and plan to use it for specialty ink experiments.
Current plan:
- Black tank: VersaInk MICR magnetic ink
- Cyan tank: very diluted grey dye ink
- Magenta tank: diluted VersaMark watermark embossing ink
- Yellow tank: Canon PGI-9 clear ink
The goal is to experiment with pseudo-watermark effects and other specialty clear/transparent print effects.
Other methods I may test include:
- Diluted ink-aid solutions
- Diluted clear PVA solution
- Diluted UV epoxy resin with a 365 nm UV lamp and light heat application
- Gloss optimizer
- Gloss overprint
- Diluted clear acrylic topcoat
- Diluted varnish/lacquer
- Clear ink base mixed with different additives
Some of the additives I may test include baby oil, polysorbate 20, Vaseline, IPA, glycerine, propylene glycol, coconut oil, silicone personal lubricant, crystalline minerals like magnesium sulfate, and maybe even lemon juice.
I know some of that is outside the box, but that’s the point. This is a sacrificial printer. If it dies, I’ll replace it and keep experimenting.
## Samsung CLP-315W
Role: Color laser printer for crisp text and simple color work
This is an older color laser printer that I mainly use for crisp black and color text prints.
The only real “mod” I’ve done is software-related. To get it printing from my Mac, I used Pacifist, which lets you install and run older macOS packages that newer macOS versions no longer support. It’s a great piece of software to have around.
The printer itself is old, basic, and limited, but it still prints crisp text, so I don’t see a reason to replace it yet.
Drawbacks:
- USB only
- No Wi-Fi Direct
- No AirPrint
- No Ethernet
- No network printing
- No LCD screen
- Internal paper tray only
- No rear feed
- Basic power switch, one button, and a few LED indicators
It is not fancy, but it does its job well.
## Brother INKvestment MFC-J995DW
Role: High-yield office workhorse
This is my dependable all-in-one office printer.
It has an oversized cartridge/internal tank-style system and is great for:
- Invoices
- Forms
- Labels
- Shipping documents
- General business paperwork
- Low-cost color printing
- Regular dye ink prints
- Testing simple layouts
It is not:
- A high-end photo printer
- A wide-format printer
- A great CISS/modding platform
- Ideal for UV/security ink experimentation
- Built for channel remapping or specialty ink play
It is basically the sensible, dependable document beast of the lab. No excitement, no drama — just regular stuff done well with low ink waste.
## DTF Printer Plans
Former setup: ET-15000 + Canon G3260
When I first got my ET-15000, I used it as a DTF printer with CMY + white, using CMY to create composite black. I quickly realized I was printing black more often than the other colors, so I tried using the Canon PIXMA’s black tank for black DTF ink.
That setup technically worked, but getting two-pass prints to line up between two totally different printer models was not ideal.
Eventually, I clogged the PIXMA black channel and the Epson black/white channel. I fully disassembled, cleaned, and replaced parts on the Epson, then switched it over to 4-color invisible blacklight ink. I also drained, flushed, and replaced the printhead on the PIXMA, which is when I decided to dedicate it as my sacrificial experimental printer.
For my next dedicated DTF build, I’m considering either:
- Epson ET-8550, for easier conversion and cleaner appearance
- Another XP-15000, for lower cost and better aftermarket parts availability
The planned DTF conversion would include:
- Printhead nipple-conversion manifold adapter
- DTF dampers
- Silicone ink tubing
- Wider-ID tubing for the white ink channel
- Inline DTF ink filters
- Inline check valves
- Luer-lock connectors
I may also add diverter valves on each line with Y-connectors, where the second line from each channel connects to a 6-way manifold from a DTF cleaning-solution reservoir. The simpler option would be disconnecting at the luer-lock fittings and connecting to a cleaning manifold or syringe when needed.
### If I use an XP-15000:
I would add either:
- A 6-tank external CISS, with two tanks interconnected for white ink feeding both white channels, plus a circulation pump/system
Or:
- A 4-tank CISS for CMYK
- A larger dedicated white ink reservoir with continuous stirring
- Either two white lines going to the two white dampers, or one larger tube with a Y-splitter feeding both dampers
### If I use an ET-8550:
I would modify the housing and internal tanks while keeping CMY untouched. I would move black to the grey tank position and use the black and photo black tank slots for white.
Ideally, I would modify the tanks to add a small circulation system and pump, interconnecting the two white tanks and routing the circulation lines out the front. The pump could be mounted externally on the shell between the tanks, keeping the visible modifications small and clean.
Right now, I’m leaning toward the ET-8550 because the final build could look much cleaner with fewer obvious external modifications.
## Epson TM-T88V
Role: Classic POS thermal receipt printer
I have three of these. No mods yet and no dedicated purpose yet, but I’m brainstorming uses.
Possible ideas:
- Smart home notification printer
- Physical reminder/alert node
- Shopping list printer when the door opens for the first time each day
- Camera, doorbell, motion, and security alert log printer when I get home
- Morning printer for to-do lists, calendar reminders, horoscope, and missed calls
- Physical notification feed
- Glorified label maker
Basically, I want to turn it into a physical notification app for the house.
## Generic A4 Thermal Printer
Role: Undecided
This is a cheap online wireless A4 thermal printer. Same situation as the TM-T88V: no mods yet and no set purpose.
Possible uses:
- Smart home printouts
- Reminder sheets
- To-do lists
- Labels
- Tattoo stencil transfers, if the model supports it
## Acer Aspire AX1470-EW30P
Role: Custom print-server PC running a custom PrintLab OS repack
This is my dedicated print lab server.
Upgrades:
- 16 GB RAM
- 500 GB SATA SSD
- 1 TB SATA HDD
- Factory USB ports: 2 × USB 3.0, 4 rear USB 2.0, 2 front USB 2.0
- Added PCIe USB 3.0 module to prevent bottlenecks
The Windows ISO was rebuilt with NTLite. I stripped out Microsoft bloat and removed unnecessary software and features.
I added:
- Device drivers
- Device software
- ICC color profiles
- RIP software
- Scanner software
- Editing software
- Design software
- Remote Desktop software
- Apple software
- iPad-related software
- Drivers and utilities for all my printers, cutters, scanners, and devices
I disabled:
- Sleep
- Hibernation
- Windows Defender
- Microsoft account requirement
- Screensaver
- Lock screen
- Sign-in screen
- Microsoft Store
- Automatic updates
- Other unnecessary background features
The install is set up as an unattended installation with one administrator account, auto-login enabled, and Ultimate Performance mode enabled by default.
Partitioning is automated and includes:
- Windows RE
- Windows PE with tools from Sergei Strelec and AnkhTech
- Snapshot backup partition with hourly overwritten snapshots
- Daily backup target to my Mac Pro Proxmox NAS
- Main OS/software partition
- Storage partition
- Scratch partition
The system is designed to run headless.
Visually, it has a custom black theme. I removed the Windows boot logo, added an Apple-style boot logo, moved the Start bar to the top, replaced the Windows icon with an Apple icon, added a dock, and added a vertical Stage Manager-style quick app/folder switcher.
Connected by USB:
- Epson XP-15000
- Epson ET-15000
- Epson XP-7100
- Canon PIXMA G3260
- Samsung CLP-315W
- Brother INKvestment MFC-J995DW
- Cricut Explore 3
- Silhouette Cameo 2
- Genmitsu Kiosk laser engraving machine
- A4 thermal printer
- Epson TM-T88V receipt printer
All Ethernet devices are plugged into a dedicated print lab switch/router. That connects to my main switch and Mac Pro Proxmox network controller, which handles firewall, DNS, VPN, DHCP, VLANs, traffic monitoring, distribution, and Tor routing. The goal is to bridge all servers and connected devices together while still keeping networks separated properly.
## Workflow
I access the Acer print server from my MacBook using Remote Desktop.
Scanning/import:
VueScan on Windows + ET-15000 flatbed
Main design/editing setup:
- 16" M5 Pro MacBook Pro with 48 GB RAM
- External 16" Thunderbolt display
- 13" iPad Pro M4
- Apple Pencil Pro
Screen roles:
- MacBook: keyboard, trackpad, main controller, dock, app switching, menu options, and feature-control display
- External display: fullscreen reference image
- iPad: Sidecar touchscreen display for zooming, resizing, navigation, and touch controls while still using full desktop software
- Apple Pencil: precision design and control tool
Design/software flow:
VueScan on Windows → Adobe Lightroom on macOS → Illustrator → Photoshop → occasional Canva/Picsart/FaceApp → InDesign → RIP software on Windows → ICC profile + printer driver/software → repeat with other printers for multilayer prints → cutting machine if needed → A3 thermal laminator or heat press if needed
## About Me and the Lab
That’s the introduction to my devices, their roles, the modifications I’ve already done, the ones I’m currently working on, and the ones I’m planning.
I’ve worked on a lot of different things over the years: design, fabrication, modifications, chemical solutions, painting, computers, electronics, soldering, circuitry, firmware, programming, concept development, adhesion promotion, mechanical devices, and plenty of other hands-on projects.
If something interests me, I get the urge to learn everything I can about it. I teach myself, test it, improve it, and keep going until I can get it as close to perfect as possible. The problem is that I’m a perfectionist, so even when something works, I’m always thinking about how it could be better.
I’ve only been seriously diving into printing methodology, ink systems, media applications, printer modification, and experimental print workflows for about a year, but it has completely pulled me in. Printing as a whole has an insane number of possibilities, branches, methods, sub-methods, materials, inks, coatings, surfaces, software paths, and hardware paths. It feels almost endless, and that’s exactly what fascinates me.
A couple of years ago, some major family circumstances changed my career path and limited what I could do outside the house. Being on a tight budget, having limited spending money, and being home most of the day gave me a lot of time to keep myself busy, productive, and mentally engaged.
I like projects. I like improving things. I like learning hands-on skills. I like building something real and being able to point at the result afterward.
About a year ago, I had one printer with no ink that I had barely used in years, and when I did use it, it was only for text. Now I have multiple printers, each assigned to a specific task with almost no overlap — and honestly, it still doesn’t feel like enough.
Because of the budget, I can’t just go buy a brand-new 11-channel archival pigment museum printer with multiple black channels and gloss optimizer. I also can’t just go buy a flatbed printer, a commercial DTF printer, or a professional-grade photo printer.
So instead, I’ve been buying used consumer-level printers, researching what each model can actually do, figuring out their strengths and weaknesses, modifying them, testing them, combining workflows, and trying to push them as far as possible.
The funny thing is, these printers can do a lot more than they’re advertised to do if you’re willing to learn their design, experiment, repair them, modify them, and accept some risk.
I’m nowhere near done.
So if anyone has thoughts, comments, feedback, critiques, alternative ideas, advice, answers, questions, theories, or just wants to talk shop about any of this, holler at me.
This isn’t even the tip of the iceberg.
