It doesn’t Rain but it Pours !...

[The Hat]

My CR-10 has caught a cold, and doesn’t want to print properly anymore, the Z Axes won’t calibrate the way it supposed to, and has also developed a twitch, when the head stops for a directional change it repositions itself 10 mm out of position, it’s like Friggin hiccups...
Mechanical problems are easy to fix, but software issues are a nightmare...

 

[stratman]

I cannot download the user manual.

Is there a way to reset the software to default and see if that helps?

Is it a belt that is failing?

I also read something about using multiples of 0.04 mm when setting the Z axis to prevent mal-aligned plastic. I leave it to you to understand this.

Could it be an issue with the firmware? Maybe flashing to a newer version or even the same version might resolve issues. There is a way to unlock the firmware: https://sites.google.com/site/cr10wiki/project-updates This might invalidate a warranty.

Speaking of warranty... have you contacted Creality? Probably a good thing to try, especially if under warranty. How about a CR-10 support forum?

 

[The Hat]

All this stuff is out of my ball park, so I’ll probably just get a new motherboard, after talking with Creality...

 

[Nifty]

So, you're 100% sure it's software related and not a possible unintended consequence of all the modifications?

 

[The Hat]

So, you're 100% sure it's software related and not a possible unintended consequence of all the modifications?

Very much so, I can deal with just about any mechanical problem that may arise, but this problem is separate to any of the modifications that I carried out, this issue did arise however shortly afterwards, on the second print run.

I only worked on the Y and Z Axes, and never did anything to the Z Axes where the problem is, manually it works fine in fact millimetre perfect, but it just can’t find and return to the home position automatically, it always starts off 10 mm in the wrong position.

I have contacted Gearbest Tech Support and am just waiting on their reply, I might be quicker just getting a new Motherboard and be done with it, I hate the waiting...

P.S. the MP mini is keeping me contented for now, but the other projects are piling up, and this could mean being confine to the doghouse if I fail her in doors again...

 

[Redbrickman]

Hope you get the CR10 back up soon. That site that Strat linked to has some interesting posts, I like the sanded bed plate idea using the Ikea mirror...

https://sites.google.com/site/cr10wiki/project-updates/scuffedsandedglassasabuildplate

 

[The Hat]

I like the sanded bed plate idea using the Ikea mirror

I have already investigated that idea, but the glass that comes with the printer is toughen and is just about impossible to sand even with damp emery paper.

The mirror idea will work for a while but will crack from constant varied heating, I’ve had to replace the glass on my MP mini twice because of the same problem.

I am however looking at a glass chopping board that might go missing from our kitchen shortly, it has a good rough surface that is opaque and toughen too, I’ll have to wait till I’m back in business to try it out...

I’m not doing too bad with this printer it’s the first problem I’ve had so far with it, the MS mini had a few problems too, but they were easily overcome, and it is running daily since my upgrades...

 

[FryingSaucer]

I've had no problems with 3mm glass and hairspray. I rarely have to change the hairspray. But I'm only printing PLA. I want to add auto bed levelling and the inductive sensor I plan to use only just manages to detect the bed through 3mm glass. So I'm thinking of trying 2mm glass.

I think glass used on a heat bed is usually 4mm, but I've had no problems with 3mm. Is there any reason 2mm won't work?

 

[FryingSaucer]

I only worked on the Y and Z Axes, and never did anything to the Z Axes where the problem is, manually it works fine in fact millimetre perfect, but it just can’t find and return to the home position automatically, it always starts off 10 mm in the wrong position.

There's no chance the Z-axis limit switch was damaged or moved when you were working on the other axes?

 

[The Hat]

There's no chance the Z-axis limit switch was damaged

When operated manually all the Axes work perfectly, and I have doubled checked each of the limit switches, just to be sure several times, till paranoia was starting to set in, the problem is not mechanical nor electrical and 'If you've eliminated all other possibilities whatever remains must be the truth..
P.S. I use 3mm glass with hair spray and it works every time, and if I get worried I take a leaf out of @Nifty’s book and tape down the edges...