Ok, so, inks arrived, refillable cartridges too. Refiling was truly a mess untill I got the hang of it. Part of it because the Bootles are designed to work only with their counterpart printers, so take the ink out of it was a little tricky.
But I am a little disappointed with canon inks, even using the original Canon Gi-13 stated (by their consultants) to be photografic inks and chromalife 100+...they are way different from the inks in OEM cartridges even to the naked and untrained eye like mine.
Cyan holds up, I guess magenta too, but the black seems a little colder (like more cyan..ish) than the warn p&b photo from the OEM cartridges. Yellow is week and overall it feels like my prints lost depth.
Not sure if this is something I am willing to loose to get a few months more before it starts fading.
Tell me what you guys think. And if you can tell Wich one is what.
We can guess which image is which ink set but it is best you label them so we can quickly tell. Some of us do not buy green bananas for fear we may not be around till they are ripe.
The idea of using a Canon OEM ink is for print longevity. This is particularly true with Dye-based inks. Longevity also depends on choice of paper and the environment the print is displayed. Unfortunately, not every OEM Canon ink have good longevity characteristics. One would think that the GI-13 inks would be of the longer lasting variety because of the "Chromalife 100+" designation.
Any ink you use that is not the OEM ink specifically matched for that printer will have variations in the color fidelity. Some inks will be wildly off in some fashion. Other inks mush less so. This includes using Canon OEM inks designed for a different Canon printer. This is to be expected.
If the color fidelity is not to your liking then you can try to manually adjust the color sliders in the Canon driver (free).
If wanting the best or more precise color matching, obtaining an ICC printer profile is the way to go ($-$$$). The ICC profile factors together one specific printer model with one specific ink set with one specific paper for one ICC profile. Change any single variable, like a different paper, and color may be unacceptably off and a new ICC profile will be needed for best color fidelity. This is all personal opinion on what color shifts are acceptable. You may not like it but I might be OK with it.
You may make your own ICC printer profiles (several hundred $ for a decent low end new spectrophotometer) or have someone else make them for you ($25-50 a profile)
You may want to try manually dialing in the colors to your liking before spending money. Forum members can help with advice or can point you in the direction of making an ICC printer profile.
In which part of this world are you located - you are referring to the GI-13 ink.
These inks are Chromalife 100 - without + - inks , Chromalife 100+ inks are not available bottled but just come in cartridges e.g. for the Pro-200 printer. But this does not make much of a difference - the overall gamut is pretty much similar. Color variations are caused by the fact that you are most likely printing without a icc profile and problably not on Canon-paper . The test images you are using are specifically made to test the gamut boundaries, and the original image files use the AdobeRGB color space which is wider than sRGB. If you use the correct profile for your paper/ink combination the softproof function in Photoshop should show you the in- and out of gamut areas.
The longevity/UV stability of the Chromalife inks is the best you can get with dye inks, if you need more you would need to switch to a printer with pigment inks like the Pro-300.
The saturation of the inks may differ even with the same dyes used. Th tank printers might use different algorithms for the ink lay down. Inks for tank printers must have different compositions as the ink supply system is different. This could be viscosity and surface-active agents. So you get different results.