Magnetic build plates

[Redbrickman]

Some of you may know that I use a DIY spring steel build plate and magetic base on my CR10. I bought the parts about 2 years ago and it has worked well in that time.

Slow time (waits for @The Hat to comment) I am building a Corexy machine - Voron 2.1 and today I received a complete build plate kit for it from Aliexpress.

I have not used it yet but I know several Voron builders are using it successfully with ABS prints and it it working really well, which means PLA should be even easier to get good adhesion.

I have no affiliation with the company, just amazed that you can get the mag base and spring steel with the PEI sheet already expertly fitted (no bubbles) for a steal (sic) of a price

The Spring steel is about 0.4mm and flexes really nicely.

Anyway may be of interest to you 3D nerds out there...

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32990786969.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2baa4c4dzktYmv

 

[The Hat]

I don’t know what advantage using a steel plate on my CR-10 would give but I don’t imagine I can get any better results with my glass chopping plate, because it was beyond my expectations for its holding power, ok there’s one down side I have to wait 20 minutes for it to cool to remove my print.

The ender 2 still has the original soft adhesive cover that came with the printer, it also has good holding power when I run the nozzle a bit low to be sure it gets a good grip..

 

[Redbrickman]

I guess it is whatever system works for you. I have gotten used to not having to lever prints off the build plate, just flex it and they pop off. One advantage of not having to pull and lever at the build plate is that the bed level is not disturbed, and you can clean the plate without having to lean on the bed and possibly affect the level too.

When that Ender surface gets worn and the prints don't stick so well you can revive it with a gently sand with very fine (1200) wet and dry or one of the green sponge/scrubber things, then just clean it with a drop of soap and water or diluted IPA