Wow guys, thanks for all the great comments and support!!!
As far as the noise is concerned you will find it a lot quieter with the slower print speed modes. It's all very well printing at insane speeds but better quality and less noise are a product of slower speed printing.
Good reminder about speed/sound. That said, my issue is the SUPER loud CLICK CLACK the printer does a bunch of times while it's prepping for a print. The AMS respooling is also pretty loud. The actual printing noise level is quite manageable.
I know very little about Bambu's but as far as printing TPU is concerned I believe it is best to avoid using the AMS for TPU.
Correct! I'm looking into options for splitting the PTFE tube and bypassing the AMS to feed directly / as close as possible... but without having to disconnect the existing PTFE every time (which is Bambu's suggestion). I'm holding out since I don't print TPU a lot, but I'm thinking I'd like to print with it more often since I really like it.
I'd also look into adding an internal filter to cut down the VOC's
yep, that's on my list to look into, especially if I start doing ABS... maybe even a duct going directly into a good air filter / purifier.
My first thoughts too, taking a long time to start printing. You may notice in Bambu Studio that the preparation time for a model remains the same regardless of the size of the model. In the case of the example image prep is 7min 10s for the small benchy and exactly the same for the 4x enlarged Benchy.
Yup, exactly! I'm trying to change my behavior. In the past, I'd only print one model at a time because startup was fast and the probability of failure of multiple models was high. Now I'm in the complete opposite situation where the printer is super reliable and I can cancel individual items, but the startup takes a long time. That being the case, I'm trying to do more models of the same color at the same time to reduce startup. Of course, that said, everything is so set-and-forget. I can just start it and walk away, and the time doesn't really matter.
You can reduce the time prep time in the next screen if you want by selecting no bed levelling (not a good idea IMHO at least for a first print in a series)
yep, that's exactly what I've been doing.
Once I've had the printer and filament calibrated, I Usually have subsequent calibrations turned off.
Not sure what youo mean by already calibrated and turned calibrations off, could you explain please?
Meaning that the printer bed and filament have already been calibrated, so when I'm printing a new part, I disable or turn off the recalibration options.
Yep, there are so many settings that can effect print outcomes I am still struggling. Plenty of good advice on the web though (along with the bad!!). Up till now Orca and Bambu have been very close. If this will change due to what appears to be a split remains to be seen. Of course if you want Orca you will need to go to LAN mode only
yep, I've been watching a ton of beginner tutorials and will start going into the more advanced ones. Fortunately, a lot of the stuff that I know from Cura carries over. It's just a function of trying to find where the settings are.
I did notice that on my first play with P1s and it came as a bit of a shock. However this does not affect print quality in any way that I can see and my assumption that this has been taken into account in the set up process, input shaping?
Yep, I figure they accounted for how much everything shakes and built the frame and everything else to account for this. People have thousands of hours on their printers with no complaints about them falling apart.
As I have never tried TPU I can only go by what others have said:
There is a dedicated TPU inlet on the printer.
Use this for TPU 95A, you can also use the main rear inlet, but you have an AMS connected that that.
I'm a huge fan of TPU. I think it was Maker's Muse that talked about using it in place of other filaments because of its durability. I just wish it wasn't so hygroscopic that I have to baby it.
Did the same 0.8 although so far not tried them. The nozzle change is more involved on the P1S
I have a 0.6 nozzle coming today that I'm excited to put in. I've basically only been printing with 0.6 for the last few years. I also ordered a 0.8 to see how that goes, but I've heard mixed reviews on it being significant diminishing returns on quality.
You will find divided opinion on plate cleaning. Basic recommendation is just soap and water and dry. Some advocate never ever ever use IPA. I have been using IPA for years without issue and prefer it for speed over washing a plate (which I think is Bambu rec.).
I wonder what Bambu's official stance is on using IPA. I too have used it. I too have used it forever and been pretty happy with the results.
Your WOW experience is exactly what I had with the P1S and still get when a print comes of the plate. I am sure over time you will come to find the odd feature that you wish was different but I am pretty sure your experience will echo mine with Bambu
yep, it's only been one day and I'm feeling that way. It's pretty crazy that I can just start a print and not even care about what's going on without checking the first layer or anything. Such a divergence from ten years ago. They really did a great job moving the needle on this hobby.
Can you print some anti vibration feet for it to help with the shaking?
I've considered buying the ones from Bamboo or maybe even printing some out of TPU, but I don't know that they help with the shaking. I'll have to look into it more.
If you have not found this site you may like the content and the explanations of the finer settings. IMHO worth a look around
funny, I had already visited those before reading your post. There are some really good video collections out there that I'm going to go through that get deep into Bambu Studio.
click to enlarge..
