Ender Direct Drive extruder deal

The Hat

Printer VIP
Platinum Printer Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
15,618
Reaction score
8,691
Points
453
Location
Residing in Wicklow Ireland
Printer Model
Canon/3D, CR-10, CR-10S, KP-3
Don't own an Ender but I know some do in the forum (@The Hat @Nifty )
I gave up on my Ender 2 after a big upgrade, the main board failed and I couldn’t get another one, so I confined it to boot hill.. (Spare parts) it was good while it lasted.. Besides I’m not really in love with direct drive extruder motors..:oops:
 

Redbrickman

Printer Master
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
1,102
Reaction score
1,184
Points
293
Location
UK
Printer Model
MB5150
I'm the opposite, I think DD extruders are so much easier to tune and get better results, but Bowden works too if you have patience :)
 

Nifty

Printer VIP
Administrator
Joined
Nov 3, 2004
Messages
3,046
Reaction score
1,405
Points
337
Location
Bay Area CA
Printer Model
CR-10, i560 ,MFC-7440N
From what I've read / heard, direct-drive is better than Bowden in almost all ways if the extruder is one of the newer light / low-weight options.
 

The Hat

Printer VIP
Platinum Printer Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
15,618
Reaction score
8,691
Points
453
Location
Residing in Wicklow Ireland
Printer Model
Canon/3D, CR-10, CR-10S, KP-3
From what I've read / heard, direct-drive is better than Bowden in almost all ways if the extruder is one of the newer light / low-weight options.
It would seem I may have to change my options, because I’m a bit behind the times, but I was of the opinion if it ain’t broke..!
 

Redbrickman

Printer Master
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
1,102
Reaction score
1,184
Points
293
Location
UK
Printer Model
MB5150
If you are happy with your prints then don't change. Im my case the direct drive produces better quality prints when doing single wall RC model parts. The Bowden drive worked after lots of tuning but the direct drive is more consistent when you need good layer bonding on a single wall 0.42mm width.
 

The Hat

Printer VIP
Platinum Printer Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
15,618
Reaction score
8,691
Points
453
Location
Residing in Wicklow Ireland
Printer Model
Canon/3D, CR-10, CR-10S, KP-3
but the direct drive is more consistent when you need good layer bonding on a single wall 0.42mm width.
You guys sound so convincing, maybe I should look at direct drive again.. ?

What’s the difference if I just make the parts and attach my current extruder to my hot nozzle gantry, but from what I can see that will make my filament location more difficult..
 

Redbrickman

Printer Master
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
1,102
Reaction score
1,184
Points
293
Location
UK
Printer Model
MB5150
From what I have read adding a direct drive to the CR10 increases the weight on the X rail which is not a great idea as it may affect print quality. Its always good to go for the lightest extruder/hotend set up. If you had an Ender 3 then that kit I linked above would be a bargain.
 

The Hat

Printer VIP
Platinum Printer Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
15,618
Reaction score
8,691
Points
453
Location
Residing in Wicklow Ireland
Printer Model
Canon/3D, CR-10, CR-10S, KP-3
Its always good to go for the lightest extruder/hotend set up
Ah so, the issue is weight, and the Ender 3 kit is exactly the same only lighter, I may have a go at designing an extruder holder that keeps the motor unit in the centre of the X rail.

What’s the difference in weight between these two extruder motors, because now that I got two printers working I can experiment with one while the other can take on any other printing needed..
 

Latest posts

Top