Canon Pixma Pro 10 Refilling

mikling

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Simon and Artur, websnail
Rather than switching chips, it is just as easy to fill a PK cartridge with Matte Black ink rather than switching chips. On this extra cartridge, ensure that you label it as such. If you want to use the Pro-10 as simply as possible then the first suggestion by Simon holds and has little to do with the issue of switching as any Pro-10, Pro-9500 owner will know over time. In fact I think Hat pointed this out prior. OK, let me go over the reason why this aspect is brought up.

We know the edge limit for Fine art papers is high, and we know that it is very diffult to get rich blacks on Matte papers because the printer used the PK ink on matte papers and the resulting blacks do not appear rich and dark but muted.

First Artur's suggestion.

The issue with plain paper settings is that the printer knows that the ink limit for plain paper is relatively low as compared to Matte Papers and Fine Art Papers. As a result, it will self limit the amount of ink it wants to lay down on the targets used for the ICC profile. The downside of this, is that the ICC profiles will be sub optimal with a lower gamut volume. So you are actually self limiting what the printer can output.

On real professional printers you are able to vary the output beyond what the driver puts out by itself- via the density control. The Pro-10 and Pro-100 do not include this facility. One is supposed to play with the density controls to control the ink limits in addition to dry time to determine the maximum ink that the printer can output safely to a paper model.

Still, despite the above, ideally one should test the gamut produced by selecting amongst the different paper types to determine the best icc produced, provided one is obsessed with the "max". Do not forget that sometimes a "better" icc can result from using the wrong paper type! For example one may get a better profile from usiing a "luster" setting on a semi gloss paper. The paper settings simply adjust the various densities and they are set up for Canon branded papers. The ideal settings can be different for other brand papers.

On the Pro-1000, one can select the option to disregard the edge settings and most of the time safely use the media....the reason is that the 1000 has an air vacuum that will keep the edges flat to the platen. On the Pro-10, the printer relies on the front rollers to hold the paper down flat before the printer prints thus ensuring minimal potential for head strikes on the edges of the paper. Don't forget most fine art matte type papers are not inexpensive, thus wasting a sheet because of head strikes can be disheartening.

The other reason to consider using the MK in the PK cart is that in Matte Paper settings, the Pro-10 will use a major portion of the Black from PK. On most Matte Papers this will limit the Dmax or your Blacks will not appear as rich as if they were printed with Matte ink.

Ink wasteage is a consideration but if one insists on maxing the paper out, then these alternatives need to be considered. This is especially so when one is creating custom profiles....to get the most the printer can produce.
 
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Artur5

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I have a rash but definitive solution for these matters. Stay away from matte and fine art papers. :D

When I purchased the Pro10s, I thought first that the inks most used would be CO, GY and PB.
Matte black should be less, because I'm using basically luster or semigloss photo papers.

I keep a regular control of the ink consumed. After one year of use, results are a bit surprising because even if CO it's the most used, the 'forerunner' is YE, followed, in this order, by PC, GY, MB, PM, PB, MA, RE and CY. Difference between most and less used ink is not big, specially compared to the Pro9000, where green and red were barely used,
Roughly, the consumption of ink in my Pro10s ranges from 100ml of CO down to 70ml of CY, The rest of the colors laying between.

This is my experience so far. Of course, depending on the kind of pictures printed, types de paper and other factors, results from other users might be totally different.
 

Andreas S

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Because there is some talking about maximising the gamut. Be aware of what you are doing when playing with density or something else. Waht you win one side you will lose at the other side. It's mathematics. In the screenshot below you can see two icc profiles compared. Same paper, number of patches but different density while printing the tagest.
gamuts.jpg


So, next try could be without calibration or using a modified calibration. Not the best idea. Compare the following images (inside the white circles). You can see the loss of details due to too much ink soaked by the paper.
with calibration.jpg

Without calibration below

without calibration.jpg

Some bright colors also can't be reproduced. Have a look on it in Photoshop. By using the profile without calibration there are some areas you will be unable to reproduce in a perfect match. (Ok, at the car a human eye couldn't reckonize it but in the red letter you can).
not printable.jpg


Conclusion: If you want a "max" Gamut and quality printouts you have to choose a paper with a not so bad white point, good inks and use good software to do calibration an profile creation. I use recycled Offset paper 240g/m2 and I obtain good gamut and sharp prints.
 
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