PalaDolphin

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Well, I only made one print. @jtoolman gave me a number of test prints I should start printing and comparing to the ones I printed when I first bought my Pro-100.
 

apetitphoto

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Since you have a colormunki, make your own profiles. Use the ink and paper you intend to use. The paper matters, just like the ink.

Make no corrections to the test images you have. Print them with the printer managing colors or with the appropriate profile for the paper and ink combination you're using. (Nothing you haven't heard here. ) I'm betting that your monitor is still too bright; I don't think the munki adjusts brightness. Adjust your monitor brightness to match the print. Adjusting your print to match your monitor brightness will lead to more frustration (I've done it, I know).
 

Roy Sletcher

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The fact that you perceive this as solely a light dark issue without any obvious colour casts or distortions means you are very very close to an accurate reproduction. Although I am not certain it is safe to base it on a single non standardised image.

My opinion based on ZERO EVIDENCE OR FACTS is that you have some small but vital setting out of adjustment. Things that come to mind are luminance setting when profiling your monitor. Typically reprofiling with a lower luminance setting rectifies what you are seeing - IE moving from 110 to 100 candellas per square meter. (My keyboard cannot enter the abbreviation - but you will see the setting when profiling your monitor) That does not explain the earleir good print, and a standard image comparison would be valuable for this.

If all else fails and you want a quick work around to avoid burning through expensive 13 x 19 sheets, just add a curves layer to lighten the dark tones of the image. You probably know how to do it, but the attached file below illustrates just lift the centre of the diagonal RGB slider up a small amount. When you solve the problem just delete the curves layer and all is back to normal.

Sorry could not be more helpful. It is difficult without seeing items first hand.

RS


DarkPrints.JPG
 

PalaDolphin

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Since you have a colormunki, make your own profiles. Use the ink and paper you intend to use. The paper matters, just like the ink.

Make no corrections to the test images you have. Print them with the printer managing colors or with the appropriate profile for the paper and ink combination you're using. (Nothing you haven't heard here. ) I'm betting that your monitor is still too bright; I don't think the munki adjusts brightness. Adjust your monitor brightness to match the print. Adjusting your print to match your monitor brightness will lead to more frustration (I've done it, I know).
I have ColorMunki Display which calibrates the monitor. It doesn't make profiles.
 

PalaDolphin

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After both prints have dried, they look different. And I see a color cast difference as well as the PC being a bit darker. So, I'm going to print test prints and see what I can see...
 

PalaDolphin

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Wow! PC ink is more accurate than Canon. That is, it's closer to how it's displayed on the calibrated monitor. And I like it better. But, it's too dark in that grey-in-black boxes can't all be seen.
 

PalaDolphin

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What I've settled on, for now, is a setting in the printer dialog box, Intensity; setting it to -15 does the equivalent to +30 Brightness in Lr. That's my adjustment for PC ink. The colors are just slightly different from Canon ink. And if I'm not satisfied with the output, I'll try making adjustments in Soft Proofing.
 

Roy Sletcher

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I have ColorMunki Display which calibrates the monit

Hmmm - it should calibrate AND make an ICC profile which it prompts you to name. It then stashes the profile in the appropriate directory or folder. My suggestion is to incorporate the current date into that name. Every time your system boots it will access and make active that profile.

Your operating system will provide you with access to the profile to ensure you are running the correct one. See below for Win 10 config. MACs are simpler with better built in colour tools.

Default monitor.JPG
 

Roy Sletcher

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What I've settled on, for now, is a setting in the printer dialog box, Intensity; setting it to -15 does the equivalent to +30 Brightness in Lr. That's my adjustment for PC ink. The colors are just slightly different from Canon ink. And if I'm not satisfied with the output, I'll try making adjustments in Soft Proofing.

Hard to argue with solutions that work. More valid than all the theory.

Hopefully your solution will work globally with all your images. What you may find is that your solution is specific to the values of your current image, and may not apply globally to future images with different colour palettes.

Anyway small progress buys you time and saves paper while you investigate further if necessary.

Hopefully all is now well. For the time being that is. You know the old saying, "If things are proceeding well you have obviously overlooked something." ;)

rs

PS - LATER EDIT: Before calibrating your monitor - make sure you reset it to factory defaults. Usually a menu item. Recommended by Xrite.
 

apetitphoto

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Gotta agree with Roy, if it works don't fix it. But as an engineer, it can always be better...

So, does the print match the monitor? If not, adjust the monitor brightness/luminance, recalibrate, and recheck. Mucking about with adjustments in the editing and print driver will, that's will, fail you at some critical time in the future.
 
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