DVD drives that don't open

[Emulator]

In my switch over to Win 7, I have found the need to employ little used DVD drives.

When you need them at regular intervals, being somewhat aged, they refuse to open and the process of poking an instrument screwdriver in the small hole gets tedious.

Advice on the web seems to be when you can't find the solution buy new ones. That is not the sort of advice that PrinterKnowledge members accept.

So I set about remedying the situation. Two hours later they are working well and haven't refused to open yet. I won't bore you with the solution as I am sure you will want to find this for yourselves, merely encourage you by knowing it can be done.

 

[The Hat]

Just straighten a paper clip and poke it in the little hole in the front, but remember to wait till the unit has stopped reading the disc first, otherwise you’ll have Star Wars in the air.
Then you'll have to buy a new CD unit unfortunately..

 

[PeterBJ]

In many optical drives there is a belt drive mechanism to open/close the tray. The belt could be broken, maybe you could find a replacement. Here is a scan of the inner works of a DVD-RW drive:

I noticed the remark about importing a transceiver in another thread, and radio amateurs are known to be frugal; I know, I'm one. It is a principle of mine to try to fix things in stead of replacing them.

Was the error in your drive a broken belt?

 

[Emulator]

In many optical drives there is a belt drive mechanism to open/close the tray. The belt could be broken, maybe you could find a replacement. Here is a scan of the inner works of a DVD-RW drive:

View attachment 1105

I noticed the remark about importing a transceiver in another thread, and radio amateurs are known to be frugal; I know, I'm one. It is a principle of mine to try to fix things in stead of replacing them.

Was the error in your drive a broken belt?

No Peter the belt was OK and working, incidentally it was two drives, both suffering from being 7 years old and refusing to open, otherwise perfect.

I am actually using Win 7 Professional 64 bit to respond to this so I must be making progress and I've found GamutVision works on it as well. This is on the old two core processor as a trial run to justify a new higher power model!!

I stopped AR activities some years ago and disposed of the equipment to the local club. My wife was getting concerned about all the equipment and mast etc. and what to do if I popped off suddenly!! As I was not really active by then, I took up photography instead.

 

[stratman]

I won't bore you with the solution as I am sure you will want to find this for yourselves, merely encourage you by knowing it can be done.

Actually, no. Inquiring minds want to know. Please "bore" us.

 

[PeterBJ]

Cleaning and lubricating to reduce "sticktion"?

 

[PeterBJ]

I am actually using Win 7 Professional 64 bit to respond to this so I must be making progress and I've found GamutVision works on it as well. This is on the old two core processor as a trial run to justify a new higher power model!!

If you are a Photoshop user, consider buying a high performance graphics card for your new system. Photoshop can take advantage of the image processing power in some GPU's, considerably increasing speed of image processing. See this and this.

 

[Emulator]

Cleaning and lubricating to reduce "stiction"?

Yes, Peter you are on the right track.

I spent some time trying obvious quick fixes on various parts of the mechanism which did not work. Eventually I realised that it would be necessary to strip the thing right down, to be able to get at all the moving parts. In fact not difficult, remove the 4 short side mounting screws and the four longer screws holding the base plate, which can be lifted off. Release the drawer by inserting a paper clip in the small hole. Depress the plastic retaining tags on each side of the front panel and remove the bezel and the complete drawer, by pressing the plastic spring tag to finally withdraw it. Remove the rest of the case.

Using your image, the grey plastic horizontal gear rack which meshes with the gear quadrant is the principal cause of the problem. It has numerous sliding contact surfaces, with fixed and other moving parts, controlling the vertical movement of the disc platform. This needs thoroughly lubricating on all contact surfaces. I also found the gear surfaces and bearing surfaces from the pulley driven by the rubber belt onwards, needed lubricating. With care you can manipulate this sliding mechanism and determine its relative freedom to travel. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly, it doesn't take long.

I have checked and my drives continue to operate freely.

As far as GPUs are concerned I am thinking of the Nvidia GTX660, which should do the job well enough.

 

[stratman]

What did you use as a lubricant?

Just for completeness... what drive make and model is yours? I have a lovely Lite-On iHAS524 with a sticky tray.

 

[Emulator]

What did you use as a lubricant?

Just for completeness... what drive make and model is yours? I have a lovely Lite-On iHAS524 with a sticky tray.

I think they are all similar in design, mine were labelled Sony. I used an incorrect lubricant, Vaseline petroleum jelly mixed with thin oil, on a paint brush. The correct lubricant is by the look of it, that lightweight white grease, used on printers and cameras, etc., which I don't have.

Another question on a different subject, has anyone experience of the Corsair Hydro H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler? Are there reliability or maintenance problems with liquid coolers?