High Temp PLA - Polymaker HT-PLA

[The Hat]

Thank you @Redbrickman but that’s not HT PLA..
Here’s what I’m after.. colorFabb black HT filament 1.75mm, 0.7kg
123-3d.ie are trying to source blue HT for me..

 

[Nifty]

Great discussion and excellent points!

I'll need to keep an eye on how "abrasive" it is... especially since not all "abrasive" filaments are equally as damaging. (I remember being surprised that my glow-in-dark filament was abrasive).

From what I understand, PETG isn't much more heat-resistant than PLA, and I don't have an enclosure to print ABS reliably. I'm hoping that this filament prints easy like PLA, but with a little more heat resistance than PETG.

... or it will ruin my printer and/or not live up to the hype. LOL!

 

[Nifty]

more info:

(also, I think it's the glass reinforced that is the most wear on a nozzle)

 

[The Hat]

... or it will ruin my printer and/or not live up to the hype. LOL!

That’s what I reckon, it may be a bit more tolerant of heat but how much more is the question..

I’m still waiting to source a blue filament colour for tests before I commit to several rolls, the HT is twice the price of normal PLA and only comes in 750 gm instead of 1 kg..
I’ve used ASA successfully, but it stinks a lot, and my attempts at PETG and Flexi filament just clogged the hell out of the hot end, they’re just not worth using for all that trouble..

 

[Artur5]

My five cents on what to expect from HT-PLA ( PLA-GF would a more accurate name ). As they say YMMV.

Glass fiber filaments are VERY abrasive. They will "eat" a brass nozzle in just a few hours. It's almost compulsory to use a wear resistant nozzle (hardened still, diamond, ruby, TC ..). Otherwise be ready to replace the nozzle every other day. Those glass fibers give it extra rigidity and hardness ( which is good ) but also worse interlayer adhesion, like any filament filled with solid particles. Therefore, I won't be surprised if the printed parts are more brittle than regular PLA (which is already quite brittle ,to begin with ). As for UV endurance, probably it's on a par with normal PLA ,i.e. rather low. Solid fibers increase of risks of nozzle clogs. Although I print PA-CF with a 0.4mm. nozzle without issues, to be on the safe side, it's preferable to use at least a 0.6mm.nozzle. The external look of CF/GF filaments isn't as smooth as PLA, they feel more rough. That may be good or not, depending on the needs of the user.

All considered, I wouldn't use this filament neither for parts exposed to direct sunlight or strong impacts, nor for small parts needing a high level of detail and a very smooth look
To be frank, speaking for myself, I wouldn’t use it at all. When I need more heat and impact endurance than regular PLA but better looks than PETG, I print with ASA.

 

[Redbrickman]

Thank you @Redbrickman but that’s not HT PLA..
Here’s what I’m after.. colorFabb black HT filament 1.75mm, 0.7kg
123-3d.ie are trying to source blue HT for me..

Oooops
That's what comes from speed reading


The UK store has it in black, maybe they can get some from them?

https://www.123-3d.co.uk/colorFabb-black-LW-PLA-HT-filament-1-75mm-0-75kg-i8758-t27760.html

Bit pricey if you are going to create a whole new Johnny 6.

Option 1

Get one roll and do a test print with it over the summer and see how it performs outside.

Option 2
Go the whole hog and get a new enclosed printer and print some esun ASA+ which is supposedly UV and weather resistant. Its also a lot cheaper per roll so if you are building a new Johnny 6 you might be able to get a new machine and Johnny for the same price as the PLA HT.

Just an idea

 

[Artur5]

Good luck convincing @The Hat to replace his beloved PLA with another filament..

 

[The Hat]

Good luck convincing @The Hat to replace his beloved PLA with another filament

To Feckin right, PLA works, and if you’re going to spend 24/30 hours printing something you want to make sure you haven’t wasted your time, ASA is good but it’s too unreliable to leave it running all night, besides I don’t want to inhale that stuff for more than five minutes..

Johnny 5 proves PLA is good enough to take the strain of the weather and all that mother nature can bring to bear on him, but he won’t last forever..

 

[Artur5]

I guess that @Redbrickman wanted to sell you one of his "dozens" of Vorons..
Good points about PLA. If your lamp has resisted for years, why bother with other stuff, probably more expensive and for sure more tricky to print.
Although I never found that ASA was more unreliable to print than PLA, you absolutely need an enclosure to do it properly,,not only because of the fumes, but also to prevent warping. Even inside an enclosure, huge parts, as those used for your Johnny 5, would be quite difficult to print in ASA keeping warping under control. You'd had to use a strong adhesive on the plate and a bed heated at 100C or more.

 

[The Hat]

Bit pricey if you are going to create a whole new Johnny 6.

The new HT filament is mighty expensive when bought in bulk, plus the rolls are only 750gm and with the added fibre weight means shorted filament length overall..

Ordering anything from the UK is out of the question, items end up being more than twice the price, these days border controls have a great time with anything coming from a third country, the US and Canada are even cheaper than the UK now..

Go the whole hog and get a new enclosed printer and print some esun ASA+ which is supposedly UV and weather resistant. Its also a lot cheaper per roll so if you are building a new Johnny 6 you might be able to get a new machine and Johnny for the same price as the PLA HT.

As far as a new 3D printer is concerned they’re all using the new direct feed to their hot end and this is a no, no for me, because it makes changing filament colours a lot more difficult.

I prefer to use the Bowden tube which I found much easier to feed new filament in for a quick change around, I even discounted using Capricorn tubes because they are not see through.

those used for your Johnny 5, would be quite difficult to print in ASA keeping warping under control.

ASA filament is ok for small pieces but bigger stuff is a lot harder to control, plus the shrink rare would probably differ from PLA making parts difficult to fit....

One day my Creality printers will stop when it gets a fault in the motherboard, because replacement are unavailable and that will end my 3D printing days unfortunately, or I might even falter first who knows, who’s to say if the Mark V1 will ever gets started.. That’s a lot of variables for the future..

P.S. But that won’t stop me trying…