Experience with Farbenwerk Carbonprint inks?

[t4thomas]

Has anyone here used Farbenwerk Carbonprint inks for B&W printing?

https://www.farbenwerk.com/en/collections/carbonprint-eng

I’d be really interested in any real-world experience with the Carbonprint system... especially print quality, tonal smoothness, neutrality, reliability/clogging, and how straightforward they are to set up and use.

Is anyone else offering something like this?

Thanks

 

[treypaul]

Has anyone here used Farbenwerk Carbonprint inks for B&W printing?

https://www.farbenwerk.com/en/collections/carbonprint-eng

I’d be really interested in any real-world experience with the Carbonprint system... especially print quality, tonal smoothness, neutrality, reliability/clogging, and how straightforward they are to set up and use.

Is anyone else offering something like this?

Thanks

I don't have any knowledge of there ink, but I was interested before. I found that they will not ship to USA, where I live.

https://www.farbenwerk.com/en/policies/shipping-policy

 

[PeterBJ]

The Farbenwerk Carbonprint inks are intended for use in Epson printers only.

Canon printers use thermal printheads and Epson printers use piezo electric printheads. Inks for Epson printers are not suitable for use in Canon printers and might ruin the printhead.

 

[t4thomas]

Thanks for the heads-up, Peter!

I should have made this clearer in my original post: I definitely won’t be putting Epson or third-party inks into the Pro-10S. I’m very happy with it and plan to keep it strictly on Canon OEM inks.

What I’m actually thinking of doing is picking up a cheap second-hand Epson from eBay or such like... something like an R2400, R2880, R3000 or 1400/1500W... and converting that into a dedicated monochrome/carbon printing setup.

So my question is really aimed at anyone running Carbonprint on an Epson platform.

Thanks again for looking out for my Pro-10S printhead!

 

[t4thomas]

I don't have any knowledge of there ink, but I was interested before. I found that they will not ship to USA, where I live.

https://www.farbenwerk.com/en/policies/shipping-policy

ah that's a shame. did you end up finding a different vendor?

 

[df11]

I have extensive experience using various inks from different manufacturers and printing black-and-white photographs on an Epson. What exactly would you like to know?
The R3000 has had its day a few times now, but it produced some very nice photos; you can currently buy a P600 for 100 euros in an advert. The 1500W isn’t bad either, but it’s generally better, although not as good as the P600.

What exactly are you planning to do? Experiment, or simply print photos? These are two very different approaches when it comes to choosing a printer or printers.

I’m from Germany.

 

[rjanowsky]

I have extensive experience using various inks from different manufacturers and printing black-and-white photographs on an Epson. What exactly would you like to know?

@df11 Any problems using the Farbenwerk inks? Years ago I used to print with MIS inks on an Epson Stylus Photo 2100. The inks were quite fine, but the handling (refilling & resetting) was not a nice experience. Clogging was also a problem. I'm looking to try eventually the Carbonprint or the Pigmera HD on my SC-P600. What about using Quadtonerip with these sets? Profiling is not a problem, as I can make these with Argyll-CMS (ChromIQ or YAAW) myself.

Regards,

Ronald
--

 

[df11]

Any problems using the Farbenwerk inks? Years ago I used to print with MIS inks on an Epson Stylus Photo 2100. The inks were quite fine, but the handling (refilling & resetting) was not a nice experience. Clogging was also a problem. I'm looking to try eventually the Carbonprint or the Pigmera HD on my SC-P600. What about using Quadtonerip with these sets? Profiling is not a problem, as I can make these with Argyll-CMS (ChromIQ or YAAW) myself.

Regards,

Ronald
--

Hallo Ronald,

Yes, I do have this Carbonprint Museum ink. It’s a good carbon-based ink. The only thing I didn’t like about it is that if even a single drop of water gets into it, it starts to clump up, and it takes quite a long time to dry.
Bear in mind that this ink is only for matt paper, and you must apply a protective spray after a few days’ drying; otherwise, if you run your hand over the sheet, it will leave a black mark.
Overall, I’m satisfied; I’ve attached a photo printed on a P50 or 1500W.
You won’t achieve this level of sharpness on a P600 – I’ve tried it. It’s simply a feature of the P50 printers: they have very fine droplets and excellent sharpness.
Also, if you download the profiles for these inks from Farbenwerk and open their contents, you’ll see that they were created using the QTR utility QTR-Create-ICC-RGB.exe
I’d also like to warn you: if you buy their red cleaning fluid, you can only use it to quickly flush the printheads; under no circumstances should you leave it in the printhead, even for a short time. I’m so angry with the owners of this shop – because of their cleaning fluid, I’ve ruined two print heads for the P600 and 1500W. I left the fluid in the print head for a day and it dissolved all the rubber seals; ink leaked out of every crack. And nowhere on their website did they mention that you shouldn’t do this!
I’ve attached a test photo that I printed out. Just by looking into her eyes, you can make out an entire room – and this is on matt paper with matt ink.
The sharpness, quality and tonal range are very good. You can’t achieve this with standard ink – I’ve tried, but I can’t replicate the tonal range.
If you manage to do that, consider your goal achieved. ;-)
Oh, and by the way, Argyll-CMS (ChromIQ or YAAW) isn’t suitable for profiling black-and-white ink sets.

Original Link Foto here
https://www.farbenwerk.com/products...88009&pr_ref_pid=9239792386313&pr_seq=uniform

Best regards,
Alexander

 

[rjanowsky]

Hallo Ronald,

Yes, I do have this Carbonprint Museum ink. It’s a good carbon-based ink. The only thing I didn’t like about it is that if even a single drop of water gets into it, it starts to clump up, and it takes quite a long time to dry.
Bear in mind that this ink is only for matt paper, and you must apply a protective spray after a few days’ drying; otherwise, if you run your hand over the sheet, it will leave a black mark.
Overall, I’m satisfied; I’ve attached a photo printed on a P50 or 1500W.
You won’t achieve this level of sharpness on a P600 – I’ve tried it. It’s simply a feature of the P50 printers: they have very fine droplets and excellent sharpness.
Also, if you download the profiles for these inks from Farbenwerk and open their contents, you’ll see that they were created using the QTR utility QTR-Create-ICC-RGB.exe
I’d also like to warn you: if you buy their red cleaning fluid, you can only use it to quickly flush the printheads; under no circumstances should you leave it in the printhead, even for a short time. I’m so angry with the owners of this shop – because of their cleaning fluid, I’ve ruined two print heads for the P600 and 1500W. I left the fluid in the print head for a day and it dissolved all the rubber seals; ink leaked out of every crack. And nowhere on their website did they mention that you shouldn’t do this!
I’ve attached a test photo that I printed out. Just by looking into her eyes, you can make out an entire room – and this is on matt paper with matt ink.
The sharpness, quality and tonal range are very good. You can’t achieve this with standard ink – I’ve tried, but I can’t replicate the tonal range.
If you manage to do that, consider your goal achieved. ;-)
Oh, and by the way, Argyll-CMS (ChromIQ or YAAW) isn’t suitable for profiling black-and-white ink sets.

Original Link Foto here
https://www.farbenwerk.com/products...88009&pr_ref_pid=9239792386313&pr_seq=uniform

Best regards,
Alexander

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View attachment 19742

Hi Alexander,

thanks a lot for your very detailed answer. For some years now I only print with Photo Black on luster or semigloss papers. For me it's a bonus not to have to switch inks printing b&w or color photos. I started many years ago with matte papers, but after manufacturers coming up with really good baryta papers that's my favored way to go. Just thinking about trying again a carbon ink set. In the past the handling of these inks were a hassle and one had to designate the whole printer for that - not really flexible. Might be better now, but I'm not convinced. I own a registered copy of QTR and could do the "profiling" this way. At the moment I think the Pigmera HD ink set would be better suited for my printing.

Regards,

Ronald