Bed Adhesion: PLA on heated glass bed

There are soooo many different bed surface products (like buildtak, etc.) but if I go that route, I'd love to do something like what Angus did here:


He's even said in future episodes that he's been very happy with it over the course of using it.
 
The Hat said:
Bed Adhesion has to be faced by all new participants in the 3D world, it’s not as simple as all the experts make out,
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It’s best to use which ever cover board that you’re comfortable with, but then along comes another bugger who says he has a much better one, these Feckin videos can be a right scourge..:mad:

I reckon these magnetic sheets are just the latest fad, the blue soft adhesive sheet I use works and I regularly scratch the hell out of it to get the last bits of brim from the surface, it’s not necessary but I do it anyway..:eek:

I don’t really care if I get a few holes in mine, that can happen to anyone, and if I do then I’ll probably just get another one..:hu
 
The Hat said:
I don’t really care if I get a few holes in mine, that can happen to anyone, and if I do then I’ll probably just get another one
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Do you have a link to where you buy them?
 
The choice of board you picked were much cheaper and you got 3 of them, the Creality board option is only for 1 and so is far more costly, I reckon you’d be only paying for the Creality brand name, but any of them should be better than using tape.

Here’s the glass option I went with..
https://www.amara.com/ie/products/colour-blocks-worktop-saver
 
I think you will love the flexibility (see what I did there) of the magnetic base system. One thing I found when doing my DIY version was that I needed to add thin aluminium foil "shims" to the centre of the CR-10 alu plate to level it before applying the magnetic vinyl sheet.

For the top sheet if you find that the material wears out you should be able to replace it with Lokbuild Buidtak or any other simialr surface, even PEI. Getting it off is a lesson in patience itself. They pull off OK but the 3M adhesive is fun to remove :)

Important (1) - don't forget to reset your nozzle height before printing as the new build plates will be a different thickness.

Imporant (2) - Be aware that most build surfaces of the PEI, Buildtak type need a little higher nozzle gap. Start too high and gradually reduce until you get a good adhesion. If you start off too close to the build pate it may stick like it is welded ;)

Important (3) - do not go over 60 - 70C on the bed temps or you will degrade the magnets.

My Lokbuild sheet needs only about 10C above the room temp for good adhesion with PLA and sometimes you can do without any heat.

Mine has been working for almost a year now and is still as strong as ever. I just changed the cr*p Chinesium PEI fake sheet for a Lokbuild.


Edit:
 
As you guys may know, I recently converted to PEI bed on my Ender 3 V2:
https://www.printerknowledge.com/th...-heated-spring-steel-bed-plate-surface.15283/

I keep that printer at my GF's house (where I'm mostly living these days), and my CR-10 is at my house and idle 99% of the time.

This weekend I'm at my house and wanted to print a tray for my car. My CR-10 still has the glass mirror (from home depot) that I've been using cold with gluestick for years.

The print has a VERY large flat surface that I knew would be a PITA to get off if I used a cold bed and gluestick. In fact, I've shattered the glass and cut myself trying to get really big parts off before. :(

This print being the biggest flat-piece I've maybe ever done, I decided to put my stubbornness aside and learn some patience (like @The Hat shows me) and use a heated glass bed.

I had to clean off all the glue and REALLY clean the glass. I had a few mis-starts because the bed wasn't clean and hot enough. Once I had a super clean bed at 60 deg., it stuck just fine.

Well, it took the bed FOREVER to get hot! I'm not sure how much of the time was because of the 12v system, the large surface area of the CR10, the added thick glass, or that I have a replacement power supply that may not be as strong... but it was RIDICULOUS how long it took the bed to get to 60. I think it was like 1/2 hour!!!

My patience and effort was rewarded. I came back to the print after the bed had cooled and it had perfectly self-released. It was pretty epic. I can see how this can be addictive and why so many people do it this way. LOL!

Here's the print:

tesla-model3-console-tray.jpg


(oh, and another note: I discovered that PVA gluestick becomes super soft when hot... and pretty much negates it's holding power... causing more issues than it helps (at least with PLA). I've heard this is good for using as a buffer / release-agent for printing PETG on PEI sheets).
 
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There is a spray called 3DLAC, not sure if it is sold on the other side of the pond but it is fantastic for glass beds. Just a tiny spritz on the glass and the part sticks solid but once finished and the bed cools a little bit the part can be lifted off.
You can also try hairspray, some swear by it, I swore at it :)
 
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