3880 head won't go side to side. Hangs in middle.

[W. Fisher]

This is where a 3D printer comes in mighty handy..

Dunno.

I've had 3D printed parts break with a little stress applied. They were under warranty and the place that made them made them thicker on the updated part, but you could still see the 3D printer fiber strands where they were built up.

See the photo below where one bracket cracked holding a light on a drone. The other side eventually cracked as well. I'm not a fan of 3D printed parts, which take a little stress to get them to fit, and later find they snap apart.

The Epson carriage seems to be in two parts along with a mass of springs which might be there to protect it from head strikes. Don't think I'd trust a 3D part. Maybe a thicker top section where it broke, but I re-glued it in three places where it snapped off so it was weak there.

W.F.

 

[The Hat]

I've had 3D printed parts break with a little stress applied.

@W. Fisher, It all depend on whom you got to make the drone part and which material they used to construct it, it’s not always about the thickness..

 

[hdtvjeff]

I realize this is an old thread but a couple of questions about the good old 3880

From what I have read here is if a carriage is replaced one must use special tools to align the printhead when the replacement carriage is put in?

Dos this hold true for a printhead swapout/' non carriage replacement too?

Where are these specs listed?

I have Four 3880 ( 1 brand new in a box never initialized) I also have two new 3800's and about 5 dismantled 3800s

I have the same issue the OP listed with the stalling carriage. I think my skillset would allow me to swap out carriages BUT can I take a 3800 carriage and use in the 3880?

I like the idea of keeping the ribbon cables connected to the PH as those cables with there contacts bend and damage easily

Again, never knew about the alignment of the PH and those green screws. I have the service manual for the 3880 but don't know where those detailed alignment details are listed

I also have a 3800 in salvageable condition with various heads. Just wish I can test all these heads without damaging the ends of the cable. i know a bad head will short out a fuse on the mainboard too.

This was quite a thread. I hope th OP sees it

Thank you

Jeff

 

[x64]

I realize this is an old thread but a couple of questions about the good old 3880

From what I have read here is if a carriage is replaced one must use special tools to align the printhead when the replacement carriage is put in?

Dos this hold true for a printhead swapout/' non carriage replacement too?

Where are these specs listed?

I have Four 3880 ( 1 brand new in a box never initialized) I also have two new 3800's and about 5 dismantled 3800s

I have the same issue the OP listed with the stalling carriage. I think my skillset would allow me to swap out carriages BUT can I take a 3800 carriage and use in the 3880?

I like the idea of keeping the ribbon cables connected to the PH as those cables with there contacts bend and damage easily

Again, never knew about the alignment of the PH and those green screws. I have the service manual for the 3880 but don't know where those detailed alignment details are listed

I also have a 3800 in salvageable condition with various heads. Just wish I can test all these heads without damaging the ends of the cable. i know a bad head will short out a fuse on the mainboard too.

This was quite a thread. I hope th OP sees it

Thank you

Jeff

The alignment steps are mentioned in Adjustment starting on page 209 of the service manual.

They also mention the service tool for Epson Stylus Pro 3880/3885/3890 is different from 3800/3800C/3850. Regarding your question about compatibility among those models, it mentions that the printheads are not compatible.

I suggest you read the service manual thoroughly, and look for a service program. For example, when replacing the carriage, the service manual prescribes you to do 9 adjustments.

 

[W. Fisher]

I realize this is an old thread but a couple of questions about the good old 3880

From what I have read here is if a carriage is replaced one must use special tools to align the printhead when the replacement carriage is put in?

Dos this hold true for a printhead swapout/' non carriage replacement too?

Where are these specs listed?

I have Four 3880 ( 1 brand new in a box never initialized) I also have two new 3800's and about 5 dismantled 3800s

I have the same issue the OP listed with the stalling carriage. I think my skillset would allow me to swap out carriages BUT can I take a 3800 carriage and use in the 3880?

I like the idea of keeping the ribbon cables connected to the PH as those cables with there contacts bend and damage easily

Again, never knew about the alignment of the PH and those green screws. I have the service manual for the 3880 but don't know where those detailed alignment details are listed

I also have a 3800 in salvageable condition with various heads. Just wish I can test all these heads without damaging the ends of the cable. i know a bad head will short out a fuse on the mainboard too.

This was quite a thread. I hope the OP sees it

Thank you

Jeff

Still here.

Both my 3880's are still running well ( 6 years later since this post began, and maybe now 12-13 years old and still both are working! ). Just I make double certain any heavy-weight paper has been de-curled on a PVC pipe as best as possible. I also NEVER use the matte black ink - or any paper setting that can call it into play - to avoid the ink changeover valve leaks. I just stick with a dark photo black for now (Jon Cone's InkJet Mall HD pigment photo black.) in the reusable carts.

I never got the service software or found it. I did use the feeler gauge mentioned earlier to set the printhead's height up (To-and-fro, and side-to-side.) which seems the most important. Just visibly looked all the other possible adjustment points for comparison and miked any that I thought may need adjustment. Don't know if the software is an absolute requirement from the OEM factory's initial adjustment.

I did get a friend's 3800 that blew out the problematic "Photo black/Matte black ink" changeover valve. I ordered a couple of them for about $20 each, but they look to be another major tear-down job to change out. Tell-tale sign is dragging black ink over the print at irregular times. Might be able to clean the printhead's underside once and get a good print or two before the valve leaks the ink again. Since I no longer use that valve with matte ink, it may have sealed itself into a not leaking position - I hope.

It takes a lot more time to get into the guts of this printer and why they easily say "Beyond economical repair" when it breaks. Least both of mine have run a lot longer than they probably should - albeit some nozzle misses which often cure after a cleaning or two and sitting a while or overnight. The "dye ink" 3880 seems to be the least plugging of the two I have, while the 3880 may plug a magenta nozzle in a couple of weeks of non-use. I should shoot some 99% alcohol onto the capping station pads to keep the ink from gumming up the capping station's pump motor and tubes, and maybe sticking to the underside of the printhead too, as I discovered when I tore into the thing.

Good luck with your repair and take copious notes and photos.

W.F.

 

[hdtvjeff]

The alignment steps are mentioned in Adjustment starting on page 209 of the service manual.

They also mention the service tool for Epson Stylus Pro 3880/3885/3890 is different from 3800/3800C/3850. Regarding your question about compatibility among those models, it mentions that the printheads are not compatible.

I suggest you read the service manual thoroughly, and look for a service program. For example, when replacing the carriage, the service manual prescribes you to do 9 adjustments.

Thank you ! I know the printheads are different. I was just wondering if the carriages of the 3800/38880 are the same part number

 

[x64]

Thank you ! I know the printheads are different. I was just wondering if the carriages of the 3800/38880 are the same part number

These are the same printers with only a 'different' printhead (although I assume there are no mechanical differences). You can find this in the service manual. I strongly advise you again to read it thoroughly because thus far all your questions are answered there, and you'll need the detailed manual anyway.

I never got the service software or found it.....Don't know if the software is an absolute requirement from the OEM factory's initial adjustment.

The adjustment program is available to purchase, and definitely an absolute requirement if parts are going to be swapped. At that point the factory adjustment of the disassembled parts is void, as the adjustment is part of the assembly process.

 

[hdtvjeff]

Still here.

Both my 3880's are still running well ( 6 years later since this post began, and maybe now 12-13 years old and still both are working! ). Just I make double certain any heavy-weight paper has been de-curled on a PVC pipe as best as possible. I also NEVER use the matte black ink - or any paper setting that can call it into play - to avoid the ink changeover valve leaks. I just stick with a dark photo black for now (Jon Cone's InkJet Mall HD pigment photo black.) in the reusable carts.

I never got the service software or found it. I did use the feeler gauge mentioned earlier to set the printhead's height up (To-and-fro, and side-to-side.) which seems the most important. Just visibly looked all the other possible adjustment points for comparison and miked any that I thought may need adjustment. Don't know if the software is an absolute requirement from the OEM factory's initial adjustment.

I did get a friend's 3800 that blew out the problematic "Photo black/Matte black ink" changeover valve. I ordered a couple of them for about $20 each, but they look to be another major tear-down job to change out. Tell-tale sign is dragging black ink over the print at irregular times. Might be able to clean the printhead's underside once and get a good print or two before the valve leaks the ink again. Since I no longer use that valve with matte ink, it may have sealed itself into a not leaking position - I hope.

It takes a lot more time to get into the guts of this printer and why they easily say "Beyond economical repair" when it breaks. Least both of mine have run a lot longer than they probably should - albeit some nozzle misses which often cure after a cleaning or two and sitting a while or overnight. The "dye ink" 3880 seems to be the least plugging of the two I have, while the 3880 may plug a magenta nozzle in a couple of weeks of non-use. I should shoot some 99% alcohol onto the capping station pads to keep the ink from gumming up the capping station's pump motor and tubes, and maybe sticking to the underside of the printhead too, as I discovered when I tore into the thing.

Good luck with your repair and take copious notes and photos.

W.F.

William, I have harvested EPSON k3 inks from their 700ml bigger siblings and I found a way to insert OEM ink into Epson OEM carts and I also fill empty 3 d party carts with OEM ink too. I never will use Matter, ever

On my 3880 project with the 1135 error I cannot get the carriage to take more than a few baby steps then it freezes in place sometimes with loud bangs. Glide path is smooth though . I cleaned disc and encoder strip swapped out ink capping station and CR motor too, still no normal startup sounds

Oh, I have the software service software somewhere too and surprisingly the 3880 has been spotted as new online which i couldn't believe ..Feel free to DM me

Oh,, I also have TWO brand new Canon Imageprograf 1000 pros


Jeff

 

[W. Fisher]

Aliexpress.com was where I got my Epson parts from. I didn't need a service software or found it then, but I did get some initial error code when I put the first one back together. It was some connector that wasn't seated right. I also forgot to connect some wire around the maintenance pump area too. Once I went back in I wiggled all the connections and double-checked everything the error code went way and it works fine now for the past 7 years.

I recently went and bought the $19 Epson service software off the link others gave on this site. He downloads it to you. I don't know how helpful it will be as it is quite old and may need to run it on an old computer system or force it to act as Windows XP. Haven't needed it ever, but I now have it in case.

Only thing that seems to have changed is my resetter tool no longer resets the maintenance tank's chip so I can rotate a couple of them between printers (I just stuff the things with a wad of paper towels.). I replaced the button battery in the resetter too and gives me the red light. Could be I reset the M.T.'s chip too many times and it no longer accepts a reset and may need a new tank. Dunno.

 

[hdtvjeff]

Aliexpress.com was where I got my Epson parts from. I didn't need a service software or found it then, but I did get some initial error code when I put the first one back together. It was some connector that wasn't seated right. I also forgot to connect some wire around the maintenance pump area too. Once I went back in I wiggled all the connections and double-checked everything the error code went way and it works fine now for the past 7 years.

I recently went and bought the $19 Epson service software off the link others gave on this site. He downloads it to you. I don't know how helpful it will be as it is quite old and may need to run it on an old computer system or force it to act as Windows XP. Haven't needed it ever, but I now have it in case.

Only thing that seems to have changed is my resetter tool no longer resets the maintenance tank's chip so I can rotate a couple of them between printers (I just stuff the things with a wad of paper towels.). I replaced the button battery in the resetter too and gives me the red light. Could be I reset the M.T.'s chip too many times and it no longer accepts a reset and may need a new tank. Dunno.

I'm not giving up. I wish there was an easy way to pick your creative and talented mind more !