Colormunki Photo Jig + Yellow Cast?

[overstay2057]

Hello,

I created this Jig for the colormunki photo, since I didn't like the current designs. With this, there should only be a 0.5mm gap between the photo and the bottom of the colormunki (hopefully not affecting readings too much).

However, the profiles I am getting have a yellow cast to them. I used the patches here: Patches
Printing with no color correction gave everything a slight red hue (with some cheap glossy 5x7 paper I had laying around). The initial profile (v1) I got after calibration made everything look Jaundiced/yellowed. I used ACPU and Dry Creek Photo with a Canon PRO-100 with Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment unchecked and glossy media type. (I had to print the patches in borderless since 100% scaling/normal/fit to size modes cut-off one of the patch strips).
The second run is what gave me better results, which was to turn on Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment and under Matching -> Color Correction switch to None. However this v2 profile was still yellowed (but not jaundiced at least). Any suggestion on what I could be doing wrong? Could it just be the paper? Might try with some nicer Red River paper and compare with mine and their ICC profile.

Also in the zip I have added my ti3 file (for v2) if needed.

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

Hello,

I created this Jig for the colormunki photo, since I didn't like the current designs. With this, there should only be a 0.5mm gap between the photo and the bottom of the colormunki (hopefully not affecting readings too much).

It probably will affect readings. That's a big change in the relative distance from source and sensor to subject, and even a small change in the reading may be significant. When you move a light away from a wall, the illumination on the wall gets dimmer. This is the same thing, although it's complicated by the geometry of the illumination and sensor. The Colormunki is probably designed to compensate somewhat for small variations in distance, but you have no guarantee.

You should probably do some spot readings with the Colormunki. And now that I think of it, let me know if you figure out how to do that, because I don't know either, and I would like to be able to do it.

However, the profiles I am getting have a yellow cast to them. I used the patches here: Patches
Printing with no color correction gave everything a slight red hue (with some cheap glossy 5x7 paper I had laying around). The initial profile (v1) I got after calibration made everything look Jaundiced/yellowed. I used ACPU and Dry Creek Photo with a Canon PRO-100 with Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment unchecked and glossy media type. (I had to print the patches in borderless since 100% scaling/normal/fit to size modes cut-off one of the patch strips).
The second run is what gave me better results, which was to turn on Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment and under Matching -> Color Correction switch to None. However this v2 profile was still yellowed (but not jaundiced at least). Any suggestion on what I could be doing wrong? Could it just be the paper? Might try with some nicer Red River paper and compare with mine and their ICC profile.

Also in the zip I have added my ti3 file (for v2) if needed.

 

[thebestcpu]

Hello,

I created this Jig for the colormunki photo, since I didn't like the current designs. With this, there should only be a 0.5mm gap between the photo and the bottom of the colormunki (hopefully not affecting readings too much).

However, the profiles I am getting have a yellow cast to them. I used the patches here: Patches
Printing with no color correction gave everything a slight red hue (with some cheap glossy 5x7 paper I had laying around). The initial profile (v1) I got after calibration made everything look Jaundiced/yellowed. I used ACPU and Dry Creek Photo with a Canon PRO-100 with Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment unchecked and glossy media type. (I had to print the patches in borderless since 100% scaling/normal/fit to size modes cut-off one of the patch strips).
The second run is what gave me better results, which was to turn on Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment and under Matching -> Color Correction switch to None. However this v2 profile was still yellowed (but not jaundiced at least). Any suggestion on what I could be doing wrong? Could it just be the paper? Might try with some nicer Red River paper and compare with mine and their ICC profile.

Also in the zip I have added my ti3 file (for v2) if needed.

Hi @oversetay2057
The targets need to be printed with absolutely no color management or color profile conversions, yet with printer paper settings set to the type of paper you are printing your targets. This is not always easy to achieve.

Are you using a Mac or PC, and what software are you using to print the targets? Macs, in particular, have had issues printing with no color management.

One also needs to ensure that the software is configured correctly and that the printer knows whether to use the settings in your software or those on the printer screen.

I would start by explaining how the targets were printed, as a baseline for forum members to understand how they were created.

Just a suggestion
John Wheeler

 

[overstay2057]

It probably will affect readings. That's a big change in the relative distance from source and sensor to subject, and even a small change in the reading may be significant. When you move a light away from a wall, the illumination on the wall gets dimmer. This is the same thing, although it's complicated by the geometry of the illumination and sensor. The Colormunki is probably designed to compensate somewhat for small variations in distance, but you have no guarantee.

You should probably do some spot readings with the Colormunki. And now that I think of it, let me know if you figure out how to do that, because I don't know either, and I would like to be able to do it.

While you may be right, the other jig spaces the colormunki 2.0+mm away and it seems to have caused some slight issues
There is a rubber piece on the CM you could probably remove get the gap closer. But I think at <0.5mm it is a pretty small gap. Spot check might be worth checking out. I should add that I also tried without the jig and less (but wider) patches, manually strip scanning them, and got the same result.

Hi @oversetay2057
The targets need to be printed with absolutely no color management or color profile conversions, yet with printer paper settings set to the type of paper you are printing your targets. This is not always easy to achieve.

Are you using a Mac or PC, and what software are you using to print the targets? Macs, in particular, have had issues printing with no color management.

One also needs to ensure that the software is configured correctly and that the printer knows whether to use the settings in your software or those on the printer screen.

I would start by explaining how the targets were printed, as a baseline for forum members to understand how they were created.

Just a suggestion
John Wheeler

I am using Windows. These are the settings I used for the "v2" profile (I also did borderless with no extension), then I used the Dry Creek profiling app to print the patches. (I also tried with Glossy paper under Media Type with little difference in the ending profile)
For the "V1" profile I unchecked the Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment off (circled in red) and that really made things worse. Note: I can tell a huge difference (especially with the magenta patches) between unchecking and checking that box.

 

[thebestcpu]

Hi @overstay2057
I use Macs so my thoughts here may not be exactly right.

First, this is the interface where you can set defaults for printing and/or the interface that appears after you ask an application to print. If it is the latter, the settings in the Printing application are also very important. If you could clarify, that would be great.

Also, here are some common setup issues. So worth a review. The only thing I think you mentioned was doing borderless, which apparently can cause some problems. I would be a bit surprised if this caused our color cast, yet I wanted to include the table:

John Wheeler