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I’ve had my Pro 10 for seven years. After Canon’s original cartridges that came with the printer were empty I started to refill them with third party ink. As I said, magenta had been the most troublesome color. To a lesser extent, there were issues with red and photomagenta too. I read...

I don't think it's a problem with the contacts. For one thing, it's very strange that only magenta has issues. There’re about 80 contacts on the printhead and one row of nozzles per each color. I don’t know how many nozzles has each of them, but the Pro9000 has 768 nozzles per color. On the...

If a brand new OEM cart gives the same results, then the problem isn't faulty ink or a damaged cart. It must be the printhead. Partially clogged nozzles could result in ink starvation. Maybe a progressive build up of crud inside the ink channels, like a sort of printer's arteriosclerosis...

Ink starvation is more usual with sponge based carts, but the Pro10 cartridges have no proper sponge, only a thin felt pad at the ink output. Anyway, it’s possible that the pad of this cartridge, after being refilled many times, became partially blocked with dried ink, so it can’t cope with the...

For what I can see, there's no visible problem on this test. but I reckon that this photo isn't good enough for my ailing eyesight to detect slight bandings or any other issue. @Paul Edmunds, couldn't you post a good scan of this nozzle test ?. It's very likely that the PM, M, C and PC...

I’m not saying anything against this particular filament, because I haven’t tried it, but in the past I had negative experiences with other self called ground breaking variations of regular PLA. One of them claimed to be as easy to print as PLA and as flexible as TPU. It turned out to retain all...

My first printer was a Prusa, still on good working order, but I won’t recommend any of their current models, The reasons aren’t easy to explain in a few words but if I were starting now on 3D printing, I’d pass on Prusa, Bambulab is the big name these days but I don’t like their business model...

WARNING : You're about to open a deadly can of worms. Think twice (or thrice ) before entering into the 3Dworld, a land of no return. I did the fatal mistake four years ago and, believe me, there's no cure once you're bitten by this bug... :p

Yes and usually free shipping for orders above 10 euro/USD or around two bucks if the articles cost less than 10. 5/32" =3.97mm. Therefore 4mm. metric plugs will fit perfectly too.

Possibly. There's an expensive way of finding out. Install a whole new set of Canon original carts. OEM ink does a good job cleaning residual clogs of third party inks, although this won't fix the issue at once. Don't be disappointed it the colors with bad nozzle checks ( red and the two blacks...

Just in case, perform a printhead alignement from the printer's maintenance menu and see if it changes anything

Frankly guys, I don't understand why anybody would use CURA in the first place. To me, it's the ultimate product of a sadist who must hate mankind in general and 3D printing people in particular. A nasty unfriendly interface that seems to be shouting at the user 'go away you fool !". A couple of...

Probably you'll need to remove the cabinet in order to access the printhead. See this thread from 2021 : https://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/canon-pro-100-cabinet-removal-procedure.14918/#post-129909

This is the current model

Actually I included those holes and rod merely as a travel stop, to avoid that the sensor goes beyond the edge of the paper. When that happens, the Istudio software detects the difference of color between the white paper and the table below as an extra patch, seeing 11 patches instead of 10 and...

No, that’s impossible. Grey has only one row of nozzles (let’s call them big nozzles). Cyan has two channels (one of big of nozzles and one of small ones). Both rows are connected to the output of the cyan cartridge. If the problem was a rare ‘bug’ in the driver or firmware and the printer used...

Anybody here looking for a second hand Color Munki Photo ?. Look no further. That's an incredible bargain ..:p...

Send me a PM if you want details about the assembly, but it's quite straightforward. I used cyanoacrylate and four steel rods of 2mm to join the two parts. Replacing the rods with filament probably would be OK as well.

There is the first version in two parts. I joined them, using 2mm. steel rods and some glue.

Year ago I printed a ruler-guide for my Color Munki. Looks similar to your model,but it has some 'extras'. See the old thread: https://www.printerknowledge.com/threads/3d-printing-helping-2d.14831/ P.S: Since then I modified the design because I have now a printer capable of printing it on a...