Sorry about that. But it HAS apparently been done.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/dz1hzf/can_i_use_an_skr_mini_e3_in_an_ender_2/
https://www.reddit.com/r/ender2/comments/ef36ic/btt_skr_mini_e3_v12_fits_almost_perfectly/...
Hi,
There ae several third party upgrade mainboards available for the Ender3. No need to give up on it. The boards are preconfigured, pretty much plug and pray. Some even promise improved print quality (faster 32 bit cpu doesn't fall behind in issueing commands to the steppers and heaters).
Sorry to disagree, but the printer firmware handles a significant workload. It has to calculate nozzle and extruder (filament) motion in real time. It also has to compute geometry (hardware) dependent motion optimizations that cannot be done by the slicer.
I've had some experience with too-long screws with t-bolt nuts. I use 2 or so 1mm thick washers under the screw head. Avoids looking for oddball screw lengths.
If initially tightened screws wiggle loose, use Lock-tite or equivalent on them. Keep it off of plastic parts as it will ruin the finish.
My guess is that the nozzle is scraping against the part while moving between extrusions. I'd suggest imcreasing the nozzle height slightly in the slicer but thet may require additional tuning to get everything right.
I went through a similar exercise a long time ago. I dom't remember my choices. Mechanical properties are important for peristaltic pump tubing. I suggest that you start here:
https://www.graylineinc.com/whitepapers/peristaltic-pump-tubing.html...
@kdsdata, how did you re-prime the sponges when you first refilled the cleaned carts? Sponges can be as hard to refill with ink as they are to clean or dry And yes, a sponge full of air bubbles can account for your problem.
Terribly wasteful? Probably not under the circumstances. Inkjet ink ink tends to set up in the nozzles if left for too long and attempting to print using partially set ink will simply cook the nozzles. Flushing the nozzles after a prolonged idle period is just good sense. Now if the printer is...
Capt. Obvious here. Be certain that when you removed the wrapper from the cart, the vent seal at the top of the cart opened up and is breathing freely.
Good luck getting that sucker clean. Consider tossing it in favor of transparent refillable carts. Another crap shoot, I guess ...
Sorry, but most of the test results for laminates (and protective coatings as well) wrt UV and gas (ozone/oxygen) resistance have meen negative. Some do work, but most don't. Same for pigment inks, for that matter. Some are excellent, many are ok, and some are simply awful. So simply choosing an...
Well, we shouldn't be so arrogant as to dismiss the OP as less than completely capable. I might assume instead that he has investigated this topic in some detail already. If otherwise, well it's a learning experience.
If these are anything like the ones I know how to drain, it's done with a...
Hello and welcome.
I'll take a stab at this but be forewarned that there's a lot of guesswork involved. The so called black ink that is contaminating your printhead is probably waste ink backed up from the purge unit and maintenance cart. Renew or replace the maintenance cart if full. Clean and...
There is a lesson here. Always clean and check the purge unit (routinely or in the case of a clog). If a purge doesn't remove the cleaning fluid from the purge pads, don't expect it to be pulling ink from a printhead.