HP C6280 Photosmart will not print self test diagnostic correctly

[phkhgh]

What is the usual diagnosis or outcome when an HP C6280 AIO won't print a correct Self Test Diagnostic from control panel? It printed it one (won't print another because of multiple errors); was missing ALL data from boxes & sections of 2 pg. report - except color sample boxes (looked fine).

Gone through usual printer reset steps: power reset; clearing hardware error codes. That clears 1 (or more) errors, but they re-appear. The errors just rotate; clear 1, another pops.

* Carriage or paper jam: (neither true);
* ink system failure: (printed perfect text, lines & color boxes on self test);
* pump motor stalled: DON'T think ink motor is stalled or not working. Printed perfect lines, headings & color boxes on self test. With top cover off, can see all pump gears, belt turning normally in warm up. Pump sounds normal during printer prep.

* Paper pick up rollers NOT turning - that's true (except for ONE self test w/o the data). They turn easily by hand; not dirty - just don't engage.

Is it just fried? Had a power outage - but it was on surge protector, ALONG w/ modem, router, VOIP ATA, PC, monitor. None were damaged....Tried plugging printer into wall outlet - no change.

It cost $130 after tax - 4 yrs ago (on sale). Light use. If it's toast, not sure I'd buy an HP (not just because of this - more for HP's apparent declining? reputation). For avg home use - All In One types, wondering which brand now has best satisfaction, reliability & least trouble using generic ink. Maybe they're all junk now.

DON'T want one w/ colors combined in 1 / 2 cartridges.
Thanks.

 

[ThrillaMozilla]

I read your other post on the subject. Since no one has replied, I'll take a stab at it. I'm guessing that for $200 someone can try to fix it. Maybe you can fix it by poking it in the magic spot, but this thing sounds shot to me. Look around to see if any paper sensors, etc. are bent or dirty. But don't put money into it.

$130 four years ago? That's pretty cheap. Time to move on. Don't look back.

A couple of words on maintenance. Don't oil the rail--it will just attract dirt. And don't use generic ink. Buy ink that is formulated for your printer, and buy from a reputable dealer.

For replacement, I have had fairly good luck with my HP, although I paid a lot more than that for it. Just remember, nothing's perfect any more.

One more thing. In the future please don't start two threads on the same subject. Thanks.

 

[phkhgh]

Thanks. Other post was too long. Figured info in it mostly no longer applied, since had whole new set of symptoms - more specific than suspicious errors. But, I get the point.

Buy ink that is formulated for your printer,

Sorry, no can do - IF you mean OEM. If could afford it, I might. I've saved WELL over the price of printer, just in cost difference of OEM vs compatibles, alone (from one of biggest inksellers). Maybe 2 - 3 x cost of printer.
And yes, if I wasn't on disability, it'd be time to move on. BUT - this printer was well > 1/2 off, 4 yrs ago. Maybe printers have gotten less expensive, but also generally junkier. If wasn't on disability, I'd stop fooling w/ this one.

As I type, I'm printing out several head cleaning pages. Lid's still off, laying back on stack of books (couldn't get connectors to scanner loose from pcb.

Don't know - maybe have to go thru 10 power resets for it to take effect. MOST errors stopped - for the moment.
It printed another self test (no data - just headings, empty boxes & color samples. Everything it DOES print on that report is sharp, clean text.

But 1st "clean print head" page was quite streaked. It actually printed a 2nd, 3rd - (me telling it). Each one got better. Once in while, still shows "pump motor stalled." I "OK" past it & starts printing cleaning pages. This doesn't mean all errors will go away for good, but shows many were bogus.

It's delicate electronics, but unless just a pump sensor is bad (saying motor stalled, when didn't), don't see how it can print perfect text - several times, w/ a bad pump motor.
IF... "pump stalled" was (eventually) only error & printed fine once click past it, might be able to find if there's some sensor, that's easy to get to. Just like car oil pressure sending units go bad. Pump itself isn't easy to get to & I might not replace it if got a free motor. I have ability to replace pcb components - if know which ones.

Any threads here about reliability, satisfaction, etc., of new printer brands / models?

 

[barfl2]

Sorry like Thrilla Mozilla cannot offer you much help except that I had a HP 5380 which blew the print head within the warranty period.

I had been refilling but with good OCP ink. HP were pretty good, sent me a new head and set of carts. I promptly sold it on E-Bay I also got for half price abot 65 UK money and only got 20 for it with New Print Head and New Carts.

I then switched to a used Canon MP760 in which I used up the remaning OCP ink with no problems so it was not the ink which fried the HP. I now have a Canon MP620 AIO ex demonstrater which I am very pleased with. Only paid 35 and it was like new.

I appreciate in your situation you do not want to waste too much money but I suggest you try other help sources like Fixya, they have just come up with an answer to a query about a Swiss |Sewing Machine which is about 40 years old. Have you tried Googling your printer faults?.

It may be time to cut your losses look around for re-furb. The newer Canons are flimsier than previous models and not so easy to refill, but PeterBJ/Tudor appear to have cracked the 525 carts

 

[phkhgh]

Thanks. Yes, I've used every search engine & searched printer forums themselves. More than I want to think about.
OCP ink - being a brand name - correct?

This printer (now) had way too many different errors. No article is going to address, "If you have 5 different errors, one after another - here's what to do." If I was working, I'd have quit on it some time ago. BUT... what you said about (some?) new Canons, probably goes for other brands. Unless you pay more & more $ - just for a home printer that won't be your worst nightmare.

I don't want to jump from frying pan into the fire. This was NOT a $130 USD printer. It's avg street price at that time was at least $250 in '08, IIRC. Unless prices of equivalent printers (all brands) have come down since '08, I'd probably have to wait - or pay a LOT more than $130 total. Don't EVEN show me $100 - 199 USD reg. price printers. But don't want to pay ~ $300 to replace this one, if can "revive" it.

HP used to discount their printers more often & higher % than others. I'm beginning to understand why.

So far, have gotten it to stop giving (knock on wood) paper jam, ink system failure, (most) carriage jam & all but occasional "pump motor stalled" errors. By continually either clicking OK & continuing printing self tests or clean printhead pages, or clearing error codes & doing power reset when errors come up. Errors are getting MUCH less frequent & prints are almost up to normal quality.

When started, couldn't print ANY thing - one error after another - even after clearing codes & power resets. Don't know if it'll ever work properly, but it's amazing how many errors "went away" by continuing to print test pages & doing power resets. Taking it apart was a learning experience!

 

[phkhgh]

Well, the printer's down to one (new) error - shows out of paper when still has ~ 10 sheets. Maybe I can get that to clear up.

Print quality seems very good - sharp, no streaks. (knock on wood) I kept clearing error codes by accessing "secret" menu: http://www.out-of-warranty.com/ink-system-failure-error-0xc18a-hp/ , each time error(s) popped, then unplugged power cable from unit w/o 1st turning it off & doing steps - mostly waiting. The link has info on accessing / clearing different HP models' error "cache"? / menu; also, power resetting.

You can find docs on HP's support site on power reset (or just resetting) specific models. Most newer ones seem to have same steps.

What NO ONE tells you is, if you have problems w/ partially clogged heads (or partly clogged something) it may take doing the clearing codes + power resetting + printing... until get another error, then do it all again, & again & again... until the codes go away & print quality improves (if it does). In fact, I've read MANY non HP help articles (& was given direct advice), "try 'this'... - & if doesn't work, get it serviced or buy another. I'd read long ago about users continuing to do head cleaning prints, printing docs - many times, until finally got back to normal.

If you have more $ than time, or if printer isn't that good anyway, this persistence may not be for you. This was a good printer that had worked well w/ excellent print quality; would cost quite a bit to buy something equivalent - so worth jacking around with.

ALSO cleaned the thin, tough plastic "strip" that's threaded through the print carriage - just above metal guide rail. Wiped it w/ SMALL piece of soft, lint free cloth & distilled water & wiped dry.

Not sure - but read that the strip tells the carriage where it is (near both ends of rail??). Said if it's dirty, smudged - can cause carriage to go too far, OR doesn't recognize it's already at the end. Mine seemed to be doing that, because once carriage reached R end, carriage motor kept turning - still moving the belt, causing heck of a brief squeal as toothed belt slipped on the carriage. Dunno.

But "carriage jam" errors & squeal went away. One could get to it w/o taking unit's lid & "inside cover" off, like I did. But you need fairly small hands to get to ends of that strip w/ unit still together. Or devise some means to reach in - needle nose pliers or surgical clamp? w/ cloth wrapped around jaws??

Apparently most of the errors were caused by print head (possibly tubes?) being partly clogged. Most would NEVER be associated w/ partly clogged print head.

 

[PeterBJ]

phkhgh wrote:

Not sure - but read that the strip tells the carriage where it is (near both ends of rail??). Said if it's dirty, smudged - can cause carriage to go too far, OR doesn't recognize it's already at the end. Mine seemed to be doing that, because once carriage reached R end, carriage motor kept turning - still moving the belt, causing heck of a brief squeal as toothed belt slipped on the carriage. Dunno.

I'm sure that the timing strip or the optical sensors in the print head carriage is the cause of the problems or at least some of them. If you look carefully at the timing strip using a good light source and possibly a magnifying glass, you will see fine black vertical stripes at the whole length of the strip plus some special markings at the ends of the strip. The optical sensors read these markings and by using two sensors it is possible to determine direction of travel. Using these stripes and markings, the printer can calculate the position of the print head carriage. I have successfully cleaned timing strips in both HP and Canon printers using a soft tissue paper moistened with a window cleaner with ammonia. You need not fear wiping out the markings, I think they are laser engraved on a polyester strip.

Even if the Timing strip looks clean at the first glance, I think it is worthwhile to clean the timing strip very carefully once more, at the whole length, not only at the ends.

Here is a thread about a similar problem by barfl2, the problems were caused by a timing strip that looked clean at first glance, but cleaning the timing strip carefully once more cured the printer: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=8531&p=1

 

[phkhgh]

Thanks for adding that, Peter. Not many posts or articles talk about the "timing" strip (I didn't know the name). Mine was not particularly dirty, so I assume it doesn't take much to screw things up.
I don't know what all cleaning my timing strip fixed besides squealing & ? maybe ? carriage and paper jam errors, but it was significant.

It's hard to get your hand to the strip's end & still see (working by feel, at that point), but as others said, it's important to clean it ALL the way to both ends, because marks on the ends tell the carriage (& motor) where the carriage is. You won't be able to see it very well, if unit is completely assembled, so just going over it well is only choice.

If you take the lid off one like the C6280, either:
1) take the scanner case apart, to remove the ribbon cables (I DON'T KNOW THAT I'D SUGGEST THIS, WITHOUT RESEARCHING IF IT COULD MESS UP COMPONENTS' POSITIONS).
2) have several books to pile up the right height, to support the lid. There's not much slack in the cables. I... couldn't get the ribbon cable connectors off the pcb - even w/ pliers. But, that'd be best, if you can remove cables from pcb, then lay lid / scanner aside. Otherwise, must support it JUST RIGHT, so don't put too much tension on the cables.

 

[PeterBJ]

I don't know what type of ribbon cable connectors are used in your printer, but some connectors have a locking mechanism, that must be unlocked to remove the cable. Trying to remove the cable without unlocking the connector could damage the connector or the cable, making it impossible to reattach the cable, so be careful.

 

[phkhgh]

We'll see if the copier / scanner still work. They're very thin connectors - sl. > 0.125 in. thick. With flashlight & hand lens, can't see sign of locks / clips.
Hard to believe such small conn. could be so hard to remove w/ wide nose pliers. I was holding against pcb while pulling - had straight shot at it. Pliers still slipped on one side. Unbelievable. Barely tore the cable covering at very outer edge - tiny bit. Even w/ hand lens, can't tell if it broke a conductor. Will know soon enough.

If it did, will either do a make shift solder across broken conductor & cover w/ silicone caulking, or get new cable. The latter will mean opening scanner / copier compartment.