Hobbicolors Pigment Black w/ Mx860... Will it bleed?

[ghwellsjr]

Thanks for the image files.

Lin, I'm assuming that you print these images in one pass and your theory is that all the inks being laid down at the same time results in them all being wet on the page together and that is what is causing the smearing. If that is the case, then isn't it just as important to specify which dye inks you are using? Isn't it possible that when using brand A of pigment and dye ink you don't have the problem but when using brand A of pigment with brand B of dye then you do have the problem?

 

[lin]

lin
I use the now Infamous KMP U black..

thanks for replying.

 

[lin]

Thanks for the image files.

Lin, I'm assuming that you print these images in one pass and your theory is that all the inks being laid down at the same time results in them all being wet on the page together and that is what is causing the smearing. If that is the case, then isn't it just as important to specify which dye inks you are using? Isn't it possible that when using brand A of pigment and dye ink you don't have the problem but when using brand A of pigment with brand B of dye then you do have the problem?

Specifying which dye ink is not important here since it's dye which I obtained locally here. I hadn't gotten chance to try out Image Specialist Ink yet before. Now that Octoinkjet is carrying IM, maybe could consider to switch over when I had the chance to. Either KMP U Black with IM color dye or ...... Will see how by then. when my ink runs out.

As to your question, at post #35 picture, it's Brand A pigment with Brand A dye. Picture on post #38, is a different set. They are taken at different point of time.

But I think Hat had just answer my question on KMP U Black on this aspect of Pigment Black Text over colored background (dye CMY).

 

[leo8088]

Lin: there is still some bleeding on the scan of your post #39. It is better but not without bleeding. The black text looks thiner, which means there is less amount of ink used. Perhaps this is why there is less bleeding. I don't really think this is a perfect solution. The easiest answer to this problem is to print with dye inks only. This is just one button to click in setup. Or print it in 2 passes. Multiple passes is what I would do. It is so simple and makes perfect sense.

 

[leo8088]

There is bleeding too on the scan of post #38.

 

[lin]

leo8088,

Now, would one hold a document printout directly right infront of the eye to read? No, most people would hold the paper at a reading distance.

It's bubblejet printer where liquid is being sprayed onto the substrate . Obviously, the letter made up by many ink dot is not going to be laser sharp but rather there will be edges and steps when letter are being printed. It will be more noticeable if you look at it under microscope or magnify it larger. So the discussion on bleeding is, it's the degree of the bleeding. Because you are not going to get laser text with inkjet printer.

The picture which I had posted at #35 and #39 are scanned and magnify larger so that the bleeding can be seen when posted. The picture #35, the text bleeds more significantly than the one at post #39 and even at a reading distance, the bleeding of the text from the picture #35 is noticeable. This is despite the same printing setting and media had been used. They are not printed in different intensity setting. So the same amount of ink being sprayed onto the paper, just that they are different pigment ink.

Of course, there are various way to correct the problem with the bleeding, print at higher intensity or paper setting so that more print passes are being made or use a inkjet coated paper.

But like I had said before, if the price of both set of pigment ink is comparable or slight difference in cost (a dollar or 2), but one significantly better than the other, then obviously one could decide whether if one wishes to stick to the ink or change. Whether one wishes to use pigment or dye in the PGI cart depends on their purpose or whatever they hope to achieve.

Now if you look at Hat's picture at post #35, you can tell that the amount of bleeding is much lesser than the one which I posted at #35. Which is good enough as they will most likely looks less blurry or the bleeding is so not so obvious when viewing at a reading distance.

If I recalled ghwellsjr had a picture of a letter under microscope, you can see and understand that the letter have some sort of edges and steps when you magnify them.

 

[leo8088]

Lin, I do not disagree with what you are saying. But I do see bleeding on all 3 posts with differences in the degree of bleeding. What I am trying to point out is there are easy ways (cost you less in fact) to solve the problem and the bleedding problem can be eliminated. You of course can use more expensive KMP U ink at much higher cost. You may still have a bleeding if you insist in printing graphic using pigment black ink with dye color inks. Have you tried some other pigment black inks available in the US? Or have you tried the latest Hobbicolors PMT-BK or Inktec's PGI-5 ink? Both of them are excellent pigment black ink and cost cheaper. I have used both of them extensively. In my opinion they are both excellent ink at very reasonable prices.

 

[The Hat]

leo8088 This latest picture I have posted is all done using pigment inks from image Specialists.
Printed on plain copy paper in standard quality, so its text on coloured background together, then I tried it with two passes, colour first and then text got the same results.
I really only have to use all pigment inks for outside posters..

 

[RMM]

This print is from your PRO9500 correct?

 

[ghwellsjr]

You have an odd mixture of colors and for us color blind people it is very confusing. Most people either go with the three monitor colors, red, green and blue or they go with the three ink colors cyan, magenta and yellow or they go with all six colors, but when you pick two colors from each set, it makes me wonder how you produced them (not that it matters, I'm just curious).

To me, the RGB colors are specified as 100% of those colors and 0% of the other two. The CMY colors are specified as 0% of one of the RGB colors and 100% of the other two. But as I port your image into Paint to try to determine what the components of your colors are, I cannot tell if your blue, for example, is 100% blue or some comination of RGB (not that it matters, I'm just curious).