DIsclaimer : I decline any responsibility for whatever damages that may occur to your CR10 printers.Well out of curiosity and near persistence from @Artur5, I decided to buy a 1 kg roll of Polycarbonate, but I don’t have anything specific to print right now, so will have to find a wordy cause to test it out on when the timecomes.
It’s going to be interesting because of the higher temperatures needed to print the Polycarbonate filament, because I’ve never gone above 240c on my nozzle and 60c on the bed, but the slower print speed won’t be an issue.
If this works, it might spur me on to trying PETG and ABS again, but I did find their smell very untasteful, so let’s see how this Poly-C is, and I won’t know till I get it from AliExpress..
I’ll set up a heated filament box for it and try keep the humidity as low as possible.. I want to give it a fair chance..
This is what I plan to start with…
Print Speed:- 40mm/s
Nozzle Temp:- 260c
Bed Temp:- 100c
So, like you, I decided to purchase a new heatbreak at Aliexpress. More to the point, a bi-metal unit from Triangle-Labs. That one won't have the internal step and, I hope, it will be more efficient insulating the heat than the stainless steel model.
Let's wait for the arrival of my order and see what happens.
Yes, just a cheap "micro-swiss" clone. But this has the advantage, unlike the genuine article, that the heat-block can take a thermistor cartridge (that is, if the photo can me believed). It surprises me that many all-metal hotends (even expensive ones) only accept the standard thermistors that have PTFE-covered wires screwed to the heat-block.Please, feel free to tell us what happens with the one you purchased. I gather you got the whole hotend unit, not just the heatbreak ?.
I decided to go off and buy the Creality Capricorn 1Meter Bowden PTFE Tubing and am hoping to get it when they sort out their Feckin checkout system..
I've been thinking about doing this with my CR-10. I even have legit Capricorn on the ready in my supplies.I recently did the 'hotend fix' that involves putting just a few cm of Capricorn tubing into the hotend, with the standard tubing going from the extruder to the top of the hotend. See
No worries @Artur5, I am quite capable of brandjacking my printer up all by myself without consent, that comes naturally to me, and I couldn’t imagine buying a small amount of filament and then waiting another 4 weeks, after all it's only money.. Life’s to Feckin short..DIsclaimer : I decline any responsibility for whatever damages that may occur to your CR10 printers.
It’s great to see @Artur5 has now started to upgrade his 3D printer, I can recall him saying he wouldn’t, Covid is not the only show in town that’s contagious… welcome to the 3D Printaholic club..At the last moment I ordered also a plated copper heat block. It should last longer than the standard from aluminum and it has better thermal conductivity as well.