Epson WF 7110 and Dye Sub Inks

Grantley

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Hi Folks. I have recently purchased one of these (WF 7110) and installed a reputable brand CISS system using dye sub inks. However, the images I am getting from it are flat, faded, blacks are a mushy brown, basically unusable. I have printed the same images on my HP design Jet as a bench mark and there is no comparison.
Yes, I printed some images with the original Epson inks that came with the printer, ran nozzle checks, cleans etc, before switching over. those images were "ok" not outstsanding or up to the HP standard, but I did not really expect it to be either, so was reasonable happy to that point. But since installing the Ciss Dye Sub inks it has all gone south. Is it profiles ?
Any clues or experiences here ?
Second part of this is if I am simply expecting too much from this sort of printer, where to next ? Sawgrass ? My heat press is only 400mm X 500mm. so no point in going larger than A3+.
Thanks folks.
 

stratman

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I see you've double posted your inquiry and added some good information as well.

I posted on your original thread some questions and scenarios which I will paste here and delete from the other thread.

Are you using OEM Epson inks and papers?
If not then the issue could be you need a Printer Profile that the printer will use for the specific combination of printer / inks / paper. Change any one of those parameters and you will need another printer profile in order to hope to get proper/reasonable color management results.
Could the inks be altered/bad or the CISS inks improperly loaded?
Is there a nozzle check or some other diagnostic print out that is used to check on the function of the printer and inks? If so, please scan, crop and post here.
 

Grantley

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Hi Stratman. Thank you for replying. I used Epson inks that came with the printer to set it up and print tests, nozzle checks etc. That all worked well (with Epson ink) and then swapped out those for a RIHAC (Australian Co) Dye sub inks. Had to run the nozzle clean a few times after that and eventually got a perfect result, so don't think that's the issue. Test papers were an off the shelf plain paper for nozzle checks and then some old Kodak premium Gloss I had for test prints, which were OK without being outstanding. That Kodak paper is fairly old but have used it through a Canon TS900(0) ? without issues.
I think your point re Printer Profile is the more likely issue. How do I go about this ? The HP's spoil you with their inbuilt profiling so have never had to "create" a profile outside of that.
Thanks again.
Grant

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Grantley

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and have replied to your reply on other thread.
 

Ink stained Fingers

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Which one is the active thread for this subject ?
But since installing the Ciss Dye Sub inks it has all gone south. Is it profiles ?
Any clues or experiences here ?
Anyway - printing with sublimation inks on regular paper won't give you any decent prints, sublimation inks are used to print on transfer sheets which transfer the image to the destination textile with the heat press . The colors transfer via the heat induced sublimation process into the polyester fibers.
Just use regular Epson compatible dye inks in your CISS to print on inkjet/photo papers or similar, and you'll get good results. But since you are using an ink type which is not supported by the driver/firmware you are recommended to profile your ink/paper combinations individually.
 

Grantley

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Thankyou ISF
Use this thread.
Destination is chromaluxe panels. I have transfer paper, but wasnt going to waste (too much) of it experimenting. Pardon my ignorance but how do I profile ink/papercombinations ? Color Munki ? But if I can not get a good image out of the printer is that not going to throw the profiling off ?
Thanks for your patience, just trying to get my head around the right way to go. Epson do not provide any profiles for 7710.
 

Grantley

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Think I am making progress. Found a free profile prepared by sublim8 for the WF 7110 (and its brothers & sisters) using their inks and that has certainly made a difference. Now will go searching for someone in Australia who can prepare a profile. Does the Color Munki do a good job? ... I have access to one of those.
 

Ink stained Fingers

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o.k., your target surface are Chromalux panels via the transfer and sublimation process.
Colormunki or i1Studio are entry level profiling tools which nevertheless work to the satisfaction of the users. I would not recommend any Datacolor products for profiling.
If you want to create profiles yourself for your own use you need to complete the transfer and sublim process and read the color patches from the final panel, not from the transfer sheet itself.
As mentioned before , there are several variables the profile needs to take care of - the ink, the panel material, and driver settings e.g. quality settings - standard or high - can have an impact onto the color reproduction . And be aware that you should use the matte/inkjet paper setting, this uses as well the black ink, the glossy photo paper setting mixes black from the colors. You can give it a try if it gives you a decent black but I'm sceptical.
The driver does not know that you are using a different ink, the original Durabrite black is only suitable for normal and matte papers, not for glossy papers, so the driver suppresses its use with the photo paper setting.
 
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Grantley

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Thank you Ink Stained Fingers. That is very helpful, feel as though I am going in the right direction now, some subsequent tests are showing a marked improvement and getting close to having a useable product.
Have you sublimated onto chromaluxe ? If so what heat settings did you use? there are a few different pieces of advice out there. Currently I am using 180C and 45 seconds. Heat press is Senko swing away.
Merry Christmas.
 

Ink stained Fingers

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I'm aware of the Chromaluxe products, I saw them at a Photokina exhibition some time ago, I got a sample and some ad material, but I'm not using it, it's not my turf. I think you should stay with the manufacturer's recommendations for your heat press first and only change some parameter if something goes wrong, e.g. if it gets too hot for the base material.
 
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