Canon Pixma mx870 print head unclogging

hmtalmid

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This problem seems to have begun when I started using River Styx bulk (water-based, dye) ink, but I don't think the ink is the problem because I read that dye ink has no particles to clog print heads. Cutting to the chase, is there any solution, such as propylene glycol ether (PGE), which will unclog but not ruin the head? If there isn't, I think there should be--research on the subject. Today I got a message from the "Tinteiros" in Portugal, aka Magic Inkjet Flush, who said that by trying to use window cleaner, alcohol, and hot water, as commonly recommended, now their Magic Inkjet Flush won't work. Tinteiros didn't say what Magic Inkjet Flush is made of. Dow Chemical says PGE makes dye ink flow but is not usually recommended for unclogging print heads. What's wrong with using PGE to unclog print heads? Will it work? Has anyone tried it? How does one get it? Keith Cooper at Northlight Images (UK) intimates that PGE may be promising. Wouldn't it be better just to drip some PGE or other magic solution in the print head than to take it apart? Even if you take it apart, the clog may still be in the channels and difficult or impossible to clear without destroying the print head.
 

turbguy

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The general concensus of this forum would probably be that Original Windex (with Ammonia "D") is the best tried-and-true solvent for this purpose.

What's in "PGE"? Do they have an MSDS?

Taking apart a Canon print head by be quite destructive. One of the screws holding the nozzle plate may have a left-hand thread, for instance. It is only recommended if you have a spare print head available.

Wayne
 

hmtalmid

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As I said before, Magic Inkjet Flush (MIF) claims that their product does a great job of unclogging print heads, but not if you try Windex first. I tried heated water with Windex once, but that didn't solve the problem. I can keep trying water and Windex, but some people, including MIF, don't recommend that. If this forum only recommends Windex, this might be dysfunctional for those who need something else, such as MIF.

The idea of PGE came from Keith Cooper at Northlight Images, who discovered that Sainsbury's Bathroom Cleaner did a super job, but Sainsbury changed its formula. "My suspicion," Cooper wrote, "is that it is the isopropanol and propylene glycol ether that really go to work on the ink and make the difference between this product and the inferior versions." Some people don't recommend isopropanol. I asked Dow Chemical, but they wrote that "Dow Solvent materials are not typically used in this type of manner or application. Unfortunately I can't send any URL's because I am a new member, but Dow online has many suggestive product descriptions. I infer from this that Dow just hasn't done the research for this particular application, but that doesn't necessarily mean that PGE or other similar solvents won't do the job. Cooper's research, in fact, not to mention MIF and others, suggests that there is a "magic bullet." There is a guy, in fact, who makes a product which he calls just that: "Magic Bullet," but he hasn't called me back after several days. I hesitate to send money to someone who won't even talk. He might just send me a little bottle of Windex and water and charge me $15 or something.
There is evidence, as I have shown, that there is a solution out there--no pun intended. Windex doesn't always work, and some people advise against Windex. MIF seems to be suggesting that I am at a dead end because I tried Windex. I think it is better to try to find a solution than to buy a new print head or sue someone. My question, therefore, is: Has anyone on this forum been down this road and is, or knows of someone who is looking for or found a real solution?
 

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hmtalmid wrote:

This problem seems to have begun when I started using River Styx bulk (water-based, dye) ink, but I don't think the ink is the problem because I read that dye ink has no particles to clog print heads.
Could you please upload a scan of a nozzle check? You are allowed to do so now, there is a 24 hour waiting period before new members can post links and upload pictures. You find instructions in posting pictures here: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=36

BTW it is quite a special name for an ink brand, in Greek mythology the River Styx separates the world of the living from the afterworld. But checking using Google shows this ink does exist: http://www.amazon.com/Bulk-Black-Refill-Printer-Dell/dp/B0041IPYA8 . The ink appears to be a universal ink, sold by a seller named River Styx Publishing. The use of universal inks is not recommended. Instead inks specifically made for your printer should be used.

Dye inks can also clog printhead nozzles, especially if the inks are not suitable for your printer.

Glycol Ethers may be an ingredient in both ink and printhead cleaners, but is then only used in a small percentage. Glycol Ethers were often used in household cleaners earlier, but are nowadays used rarely, at least in Denmark.

I think you are referring to these Northlight image sites: http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/inkjet_cleaning.html and http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/stuff2/?p=525

I think that the consensus of recommending Original Windex for printhead cleaning is a good one, where the Windex is available. In Europe a good substitute is an "Ajax" window cleaner with ammonia from Colgate-Palmolive. I have used it with success for cleaning printheads. It looks like it is also available in Portugal, click the small image named "Vidros" : http://www.colgate.pt/app/PDP/Ajax/PT/Products/Glass-Cleaner.cwsp . You could also mix your own printhead cleaner: http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=5992 . I have also used this cleaning solution with the ammonia added with success. I think it works just as well as window cleaners.

I don't see how the use of a window cleaner with ammonia could prevent the MIF cleaner from working, if the printhead is flushed with water, before trying the MIF cleaner. But I'm not a chemist.

I suggest you try the "Ajax" window cleaner, before giving up on the printhead.

If you succeed in saving the printhead, I suggest starting using good brand name refill ink, like Image Specialists. You find an EU supplier here: http://www.octoink.co.uk/ . This site is in English. OCP inks are also popular, you find an EU supplier here: http://www.octopus-office.de/en/info/home/ you can choose between English, German and Italian language, when wieving this site.

The problems could also be caused by the cartridges not delivering sufficient amounts of ink to the printhead or delivering no ink at all. So what cartridges are you refilling? Canon OEM or aftermarket cartridges. It is recommended that only Canon OEM cartridges are used for refilling. Aftermarket cartridges are more likely to cause inkflow problems if refilled. And what refill method are you using?

I have had inkflow problems with Canon OEM PGI-520/CLI-521 cartridges refilled using the "German" or "Durchstich" method of refilling. After purging and drying the cartridges, the problems were solved. I think that maybe the topfilling method is better suited for these cartridges.
 

hmtalmid

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Thanks very much for your help. Sorry for the delay. I tried to upload a nozzle check, but it wouldn't work so I put it on my website at http://kye20121.net/prntrnozchk.jpg. I am surprised that some magenta shows on this nozzle check. Usually there's just black and no colors at all. The printer has been idle for 1-2 weeks.

I think now that maybe it was a mistake to buy from a company called River Styx (RS). Maybe it's like asking for trouble, but then so many companies are questionable so I just hope they don't screw me. RS' ad says their ink "won't clog printers" and is good for Canon printers, not to mention very cheap. RS also provides a lot of, or maybe unlimited, free customer service.

Yesterday I got some original Windex. I also have an ultrasonic cleaner. In the past I have tried hot water and window cleaner in the ultrasonic cleaner. The mixture gets thoroughly darkened by the ink, and the nozzles on the print head look pretty clean, at least on the outside. The print quality improves a little after this treatment, but there's a long way to go to get to acceptable quality printing.

How should I clean the print head with the original Windex? Should I use straight Windex, or should I mix it with water? If so, how much water? Should I heat the water? Should I use the ultrasonic cleaner? Should I soak the print head? If so, how long?

My cartridges are from a company called 77ink (see http://www.77ink.com/index.php). Sometimes, or maybe all the time when I try to refill them, the empty chamber (without the sponge) won't stay full. All the ink just drips right out of the bottom nozzle as soon as I put it in the empty chamber so I will look for some new, OEM carts while I wait for you to answer my questions about cleaning.

Recently I got a new magenta cart from 77ink, tried to clean the print head in the ultrasonic cleaner with window cleaner and hot water, and tried to print, but all that didn't help much.

Since RS says their ink won't clog Canon printers, do you think I should try to get my money back from RS?

BTW, I am in the USA.
 

turbguy

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Your nozzle check may or may not be a clog. It could be internal to the print head or printer electronics, or carts not feeding ink.

To clean a print head with windex, the typical practice is to place the printhead on a tissue or folded paper towel that's sitting in a vessel filled with about 1/4" of straight, undiluted windex. Spray some windex on the ink inlets and let it soak for hours, even days. Replenish the windex as required. Lifting and lowering the printhead occasionally helps to pump windex through the passageways. Allow the printhead electronics to dry before re-installing the print head.

I have also forced low pressure air through the inlets to confirm the passageways are clear, but you MUST use a very low pressure (1-2 psi) to avoid breaking the nozzle plate. Use this pressure method at your own risk. The pritheads operate with only a inch or two of water head (pressure) and are not built to withstand much.

The use of ultrasonic cleaners is NOT recommended. The nozzle plate is VERY fragile. Printheads have been damaged by use of ultrasonic cleaners, but it depends on the "strength" of the ultrasound.

So you put in a new magenta cart and it started printing magenta??? Try OEM carts for the other colors!

ALL inks can cause clogs, even OEM inks! That's why they have a cleaning/purging routine in the driver!

Wayne
 

hmtalmid

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I ordered a new set of "Genuine Original OEM Canon ... Cartridges," which will take a week or more to get here. In the meantime, I am soaking my print head in about 1/4" Original Windex in a flat, plastic container with a fairly airtight lid on top and some tissue on the bottom under the print head.
 

hmtalmid

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How do I know if the Windex is getting all the way inside the print head? The Windex doesn't seem to go through the membranes on top of the print head nozzles. I have the print head soaking in Windex with the print head jets facing down. Does the Windex get all the way up inside the jets and dissolve any ink in all the inside channels and ports? Or should I add a lot more Windex and turn the print head so that it will soak with the jets facing sideways so that the Windex will get all the way inside? If so, will the Windex damage the electric plates if they soak for a week or so?
 

turbguy

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Lifting and lowering the printhead occasionally helps to pump windex through the passageways. Allow the printhead electronics to dry before re-installing the print head. Air pressure applied to the inlets can force observable ink/windex out the nozzles in the form of bubbles or foam. BE CAREFUL WITH AIR PRESSURE!
 

hmtalmid

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I got my "new, original Canon" carts and stuck them in my print head, which I had soaked for almost a week in straight original Windex. Initial testing shows that black and magenta are a little streaky and maybe not as dark as they should be--I'm not sure. In the very first test, a tiny bit of cyan showed, but no yellow at all. In subsequent (two) tests, cyan is just barely visible--mainly only black and magenta are working, but not well. Could the missing colors be caused by air in nozzles or passages? I also did one nozzle clean after the first test and one deep clean after the second test.
 

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