Bed Adhesion: PLA on heated glass bed

Nifty

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There are soooo many different bed surface products (like buildtak, etc.) but if I go that route, I'd love to do something like what Angus did here:


He's even said in future episodes that he's been very happy with it over the course of using it.
 

The Hat

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Bed Adhesion has to be faced by all new participants in the 3D world, it’s not as simple as all the experts make out,
It’s best to use which ever cover board that you’re comfortable with, but then along comes another bugger who says he has a much better one, these Feckin videos can be a right scourge..:mad:

I reckon these magnetic sheets are just the latest fad, the blue soft adhesive sheet I use works and I regularly scratch the hell out of it to get the last bits of brim from the surface, it’s not necessary but I do it anyway..:eek:

I don’t really care if I get a few holes in mine, that can happen to anyone, and if I do then I’ll probably just get another one..:hu
 

Nifty

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I don’t really care if I get a few holes in mine, that can happen to anyone, and if I do then I’ll probably just get another one

Do you have a link to where you buy them?
 

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The Hat

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The choice of board you picked were much cheaper and you got 3 of them, the Creality board option is only for 1 and so is far more costly, I reckon you’d be only paying for the Creality brand name, but any of them should be better than using tape.

Here’s the glass option I went with..
https://www.amara.com/ie/products/colour-blocks-worktop-saver
 

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I think you will love the flexibility (see what I did there) of the magnetic base system. One thing I found when doing my DIY version was that I needed to add thin aluminium foil "shims" to the centre of the CR-10 alu plate to level it before applying the magnetic vinyl sheet.

For the top sheet if you find that the material wears out you should be able to replace it with Lokbuild Buidtak or any other simialr surface, even PEI. Getting it off is a lesson in patience itself. They pull off OK but the 3M adhesive is fun to remove :)

Important (1) - don't forget to reset your nozzle height before printing as the new build plates will be a different thickness.

Imporant (2) - Be aware that most build surfaces of the PEI, Buildtak type need a little higher nozzle gap. Start too high and gradually reduce until you get a good adhesion. If you start off too close to the build pate it may stick like it is welded ;)

Important (3) - do not go over 60 - 70C on the bed temps or you will degrade the magnets.

My Lokbuild sheet needs only about 10C above the room temp for good adhesion with PLA and sometimes you can do without any heat.

Mine has been working for almost a year now and is still as strong as ever. I just changed the cr*p Chinesium PEI fake sheet for a Lokbuild.


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