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A New Hot-end Makes all the Difference...

Discussion in '3D Printers & 3D Printing' started by The Hat, Dec 2, 2017.

  1. Dec 2, 2017
    The Hat

    The Hat Printer VIP Moderator

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    Ok, the hot-end on my CR-10 was constantly getting clogged up and blocking every 15 minutes or so, I didn’t have a clue till @Nija mentioned that if you exceed a certain temperature in the head the Teflon lining can get damaged and can cause the filament to become trapped.

    I went about pulling everything apart, but I couldn’t get the throat, (it’s also called a heat brake) separated from the heat block and it snapped, with half still stuck in the heat block, when I examined the throat later the Teflon lining was crumpled and blackened, and I reckoned that was the cause of my problem.
    Upgrade 4.jpg Ali hot end.JPG

    I purchased two new hot-ends form AliExpress along with a few other pieces like three new point 4 brass nozzles, several extra heat brakes (throats) , which were the wrong type, but I’ll get the right one’s next time, I wanted the heat brake with the Teflon lining.

    Here are the remains of my old hot-end, I salvaged the thermistor and cartridge heater out of the heat block, so I could use them in the new upgraded one, I also got some new needles.
    Ali needles.JPG Ali hot 3end.JPG
    When you get a new Hot-end it usually comes in one piece, but you must separate all the parts before you can start to assemble them properly, this give you a chance to see all the bits and pieces up close.

    Upgrade 10.jpg Upgrade 9.jpg
    You start by screwing in the brass nozzle into the head block tight first, but back it off a quarter turn, then put in the thermistor and screw that in tight, but don’t crush the wire, follow that up with the cartridge heater, centre it in the heat block and tighten.

    Next you can screw the throat into the heat block, but first it’s better to have a heat sealing paste on the threads to help it seat properly, and while you’re at it also helps to put a little paste on the head of the brass nozzle, I forgot to mention that earlier, sorry.

    You can now tighten the brass nozzle into the heat block bot not to tight, because you may need to remove that if it ever becomes blocked, the last thing to add is the heat sink, you can tighten that down by hand but don’t forget to lock it in place with the tiny screw on the side.

    The Pneumatic connector can be placed on the top and tightened by hand also, now all you got to do is attach it to the printer with the two screws that held on the old hot-end, and fix the cooling fans in place.
    Upgrade 2.jpg Upgrade 3.jpg

    It’s best to heat the hot-end up to 190 c for a few minutes and then hand feed a piece of filament through the top and check that the filament is passing through the head and exiting the nozzle smoothly it should come out of the nozzles with a wiggle and then go straight, then pull out the test filament and in shove the PTFE feeding tube into the top and you’re ready to start printing...

    My printer hasn’t stopped since...
     

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  2. Dec 2, 2017
    Nifty

    Nifty Printer Master Administrator

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    Wow, fantastic write-up @The Hat !! :bow

    I've seen a bunch of similar situations... PTFE / Bowden tube melting / causing problems, throat / snapping in half, etc. This is part of the many reasons whey I don't want to mess with hotter temps.

    Some people are saying that the capricorn bowden tubes are a good upgrade since they have better tolerances, are smoother, and can take higher temps: https://www.captubes.com/

    This is the hot-end you're using, right? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ful...32825427805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.wjqf8n

    Again, thanks for this fantastic post!
     
    stratman and The Hat like this.
  3. Dec 6, 2017 at 10:27 AM
    Redbrickman

    Redbrickman Print Addict

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    Great write up The Hat. Wil be useful in the future when I need to change it.
     
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