first nozzle check of the day shows clog in K position, but always clears up

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I tested the inktec K3 photo black compatible ink last year, I didn't like it, the black gets a pretty strong metallic aluminum like sheen against reflecting light, and the black level is just average as well.
Fair enough... Impressed that you'd already gone there and tested it. Shame it wasn't a win given the clogging issue but still useful to know..
 

pharmacist

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Fair enough... Impressed that you'd already gone there and tested it. Shame it wasn't a win given the clogging issue but still useful to know..

Mixing Image Specialists Photo Black with Inktec Powerchrome K3 yields a very good photo black, that is glossy enough without the metallic sheen, seen with the Inktec Powerchrome K3. Somehow using Inktec Powerchrome Photo Black in K3 printers doesn't seem to have this strange metallic sheen, probably because of the action of the LB/LLB inks that counters this strange sheen, when using the CcMmYK subset of this ink. So I suggest to use either Image Specialist Photo Black or a mixture of 50/50 Inktec/Image Specialist PB.

Nevertheless the results of Inktec Powerchrome K3 CcMmYK does a pretty good job in terms if gloss on high gloss paper like Aldi Netbit 300 gsm. The only problem was the high metallic sheen of the PB of Inktec. I now use a mixture of 50/50 Inktec/Image Specialis PB and the muted down gloss equalizes the gloss of the inks, so gloss differential is diminished significantly. Somehow the Inktec Powerchrome K3 PB is meant to be used in in the K3 inkset including the LB/LLB inks.
 

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In my dedicated B&W epson r285 I have tried
- pure matte black "carbon" sets ("ebony-6" from MIS / paul roark's lab and "carbonprint museum" from farbenwerk),
- a similar DIY dilution from pigment photo black (epson compatible ultrachrome HD)
- and a dilution from fuji/noritsu DL dye black (also according to p.roark).
And until now I have to say,
- for the deepest black on matte paper pure MK "ebony-6" is the best. though on glossy paper there is clearly golden shining bronzing..
- For the best gloss and deepest black on glossy paper the DL dye is best.
- The HD photoblack is still a compromise for me, not as black as MK on matte paper, not as black as dye on glossy paper (but almost...), surely far more stable / UV resistant than dye.

With good profiles you can achieve fairly neutral blacks with a normal color ink set.
While these B&W sets are neutral only on certain papers,
- pure carbon MK has a warm "sepia" like tint, which may suit B&W photo prints well,
- while pigment PK and dye K oftenly tends to a cold greenish or violet tint.
 
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Paul W.

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I'm impressed by the variety of methods for printing in black and white discussed. A very lively bunch here. I'm not sure I especially thanked @Ink stained Fingers for sharing his similar experience and his point that the matte ink pigment particles are more likely to clog than the Photo Black.

Thanks all!

Paul W.
 

mikling

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Mixing Image Specialists Photo Black with Inktec Powerchrome K3 yields a very good photo black, that is glossy enough without the metallic sheen, seen with the Inktec Powerchrome K3. Somehow using Inktec Powerchrome Photo Black in K3 printers doesn't seem to have this strange metallic sheen, probably because of the action of the LB/LLB inks that counters this strange sheen, when using the CcMmYK subset of this ink. So I suggest to use either Image Specialist Photo Black or a mixture of 50/50 Inktec/Image Specialist PB.

Nevertheless the results of Inktec Powerchrome K3 CcMmYK does a pretty good job in terms if gloss on high gloss paper like Aldi Netbit 300 gsm. The only problem was the high metallic sheen of the PB of Inktec. I now use a mixture of 50/50 Inktec/Image Specialis PB and the muted down gloss equalizes the gloss of the inks, so gloss differential is diminished significantly. Somehow the Inktec Powerchrome K3 PB is meant to be used in in the K3 inkset including the LB/LLB inks.

Pharmacist, kudos to you because you are correct and picked up on relevant points that others have not seen or even begun to see. Obviously you have spent a lot of time on this. The observation of the K3 behavior is also correct with all inksets. Question? Does a K3 printer ever print pure PK? It comes back to my print engine topics over and over again.

This should indicate to the readers that assessment of an ink and inkset is not as simplistic as it appears. Inks and PK ink perform very differently on various papers and in combination with various ink colors. Measuring color and the numbers do not tell the whole story.

I've spent more than a year on this topic and it was the basis of my PCK3HD inkset.

Just a word on mixing, be careful when mixing. Always test for a period of time first....well you know but some others might not.
 
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Ink stained Fingers

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This should indicate to the readers that assessment of an ink and inkset is not as simplistic as it appears. Inks and PK ink perform very differently on various papers and in combination with various ink colors.

(Printing) life otherwise would be dull .....
 

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I find it never is, and that’s what makes it so fascinating and intriguing ...:weee
I'll let you try to run that past our respective partners shall I... Should we just provide pillows in advance, so their heads don't hit too hard when they drop off? ;)
 

martin0reg

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Just some thoughts regarding ink mixing:
I just have read some interesting notes by paul roark, referring to a new project
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Glossy-Carbon-Variable-Tone.pdf

quote: ...While the flexibility of the new glossy compatible inkset may exceed that of the Eboni VT inksets, the Eboni carbon based inkset will remain the “best for the least” due to the wide availability of the inputs, including the generic dilution base I formulated, and the inherently lower clogging of a matte paper only inkset that needs no binder to glue the pigments onto matte paper..."

So pure carbon MK could be in fact less prone to clogging (which was my experience and surprise when using ebony-6)
- but on the other hand the diluant is quite important here: is it with more glycole to keep heavier pigments in suspension or is it a lighter version for dyes..?..

BTW here is pharmacist's base ink / diluant for dye, with some thoughts regarding the ingredients
http://www.printerknowledge.com/thr...an-1430-with-fujitsu-dl-ink.11121/#post-93452
 

Paul W.

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@martin0reg: Glad to see Paul Roark and his inkset mentioned here, I'm feeling more at home! Are you using his Eb6 inkset?

Perhaps this loops us back to my initial post, that my 100% Eboni cart almost always clogs on first nozzle check of a work session, after a day or two inactivity. It clears up easily, after just one cleaning. My diluted carts never clog. @Ink stained Fingers already posted a good explanation earlier on why this is so... I'm just curious if this has been your experience.
 
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