Revisiting Resetter problems for Epson 3880 - And related stuff.

I did not disassemble but used the quick method on some older carts possibly 5 years old.
I will disassemble the leaky ones to see what the situation is. It is easily possible I could have damaged the cross pieces. In trying this method I was hoping that they would be fool proof. It is also likely that my piercing pin nicked/damaged something.

Now about the chip situation

The weak point about NOT using a resetter is that you can run into a lockout situation when performing a K switch when using ARCs with levels that only reset when empty. For example, suppose you had switched OUT of PK and into MK but the PK was registering a very low level. All can be fine until you attempt to switch BACK to PK. Then the printer indicates inadequate ink for the switch. If using normal OEM carts, that's OK. You pop in a new one. If using ARCs that behaves as described above, you're locked out. The only solution is somehow to get a PK cart/chip with sufficiently high levels that will allow the switch.

We've always known about this situation on the R2880. With the non battery chips on the R3000 as well as the P600 it exists as well. So for those acquiring P600s, do not use the OEM carts till empty. Leave some ink level on the chips and remove and put them away as a solution to lockout scenarios.

An update to the above about the leaking carts after modifying the OEM carts.

Here is what actually caused the leak. When you look at the seal where the ink spigot enters the cartridge it is conical in shape. At the tip of the cone is where there is most tension when the spigot is inserted. Guess what? that is also the spot of the most stress when the piercing process needs to be done. What I found was two very small tears on the edges of the seals. That is where the leak occurred.

At the same time I examined the seals on the aftermarket carts and found something very interesting. On the Epson original OEM cart, the carts is externally sealed with a poppet valve that is flat. On the aftermarket, it is sealed with a stainless steel ball. The other interesting point is that on the aftermarket, the diameter of the hole is smaller so the seal has a higher circumferential tension and possibly better seal whereas on the OEM the diameter of the hole is larger. Now if modifying the OEM, it is a good thing that it is wider to allow you to get the piercing pin through.

The conclusion is thus. I still don't know if I nicked the seal or whether the seal tore by excess stress when piercing. Irregardless, it is something that should be inspected immeidately after the modification AND the printer needs to be inspected after installation of the modified cart to see if there are any leaks. If one sees leaks then, removal of the cart or umpowering of the printer should be done because the pressurized carts will completely empty the cart over time if there is a leak.

Some may ask, what about the pressure sensor on the 38xx printers, should that have not warned of low pressure? Not it will not detect minor leaks, if it can always pressurize to the required pressure.

OK, sometimes someone needs to get into a situation and the solution to that is an evolved improvement.

While I tried toolman's process of modifying the 3800/3880 carts. I stumbled into a problem myself and while Joe was able to have no problems, I did on two of the 9 carts.

I just rectified the situation. I am now going to recommend that the retaining ring on the outside of the inlet be carefully removed bt simply prying off with a screwdriver. Next with a pair of tweezers, remove the seal by holding onto the outer edges, do not grab the inside edges, which needs to be in perfect condition. Then remove the poppet valve and then the spring in the tunnel. Thereafter pierce as per Joe's instructions and reassemble. With this process, you totally avoid the possibility of tearing or nicking the critical seal against the printer spigot. Additionally, one of the toughest aspects of modifying is controlling the piercing needle while getting around the poppet valve. With the spring and poppet removed it is now a piece of cake.
I think I will do a video on this sometime.

mikling said:

OK, sometimes someone needs to get into a situation and the solution to that is an evolved improvement.

While I tried toolman's process of modifying the 3800/3880 carts. I stumbled into a problem myself and while Joe was able to have no problems, I did on two of the 9 carts.

I just rectified the situation. I am now going to recommend that the retaining ring on the outside of the inlet be carefully removed. Next with a pair of tweezers, remove the seal by holding onto the outer edges, do not grab the inside edegs, which needs to be in perfect condition. Then remove the poppet valve and then the spring in the tunnel. Thereafter pierce as per Joe's instructions and reassemble. With this process, you totally avoid the possibility of tearing or nicking the critical seal against the printer spigot. Additionally, one of the toughest aspects of modifying is controlling the piercing needle while getting around the poppet valve. With the spring and poppet removed it is a piece of cake.
I think I will do a video on this sometime.

Click to expand...

»Video would be good Mike. No matter how clear the verbal explanation the video removes all doubt. Secondly it makes it easier for anybody whose first language is not English or if thy are somewhat nervous about undertaking the procedure.

rs

That video will have to wait until I get my 5 Epson machines running. I took delivery delivery of a SC- P800 yesterday and it will join the SC- P600, SP3880, R3000 and R2880 in a marathon profiling session the next few weeks. Hopefully it will all be done by Christmas. I will be tuning out for a while as I get er done.

mikling said:

OK, sometimes someone needs to get into a situation and the solution to that is an evolved improvement.

While I tried toolman's process of modifying the 3800/3880 carts. I stumbled into a problem myself and while Joe was able to have no problems, I did on two of the 9 carts.

I just rectified the situation. I am now going to recommend that the retaining ring on the outside of the inlet be carefully removed bt simply prying off with a screwdriver. Next with a pair of tweezers, remove the seal by holding onto the outer edges, do not grab the inside edges, which needs to be in perfect condition. Then remove the poppet valve and then the spring in the tunnel. Thereafter pierce as per Joe's instructions and reassemble. With this process, you totally avoid the possibility of tearing or nicking the critical seal against the printer spigot. Additionally, one of the toughest aspects of modifying is controlling the piercing needle while getting around the poppet valve. With the spring and poppet removed it is now a piece of cake.
I think I will do a video on this sometime.

Click to expand...

Mike that exact mehod is demonstrated one of my follow up videos after I did the long initial series where I actually drill a very small hole through the rear cap that holds the sealing disk in place.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kCc5fwssVM

I came up with the so called easy method because some people found the dismanteling of the valve a bit daunting. The quick method works very well if you take great care to not dammage the exit port seal.\If you nead replacement seals, leat me know or even empty carts but without chips. I still have a few around I can provide.

Joe

Roy Sletcher said:

»Video would be good Mike. No matter how clear the verbal explanation the video removes all doubt. Secondly it makes it easier for anybody whose first language is not English or if thy are somewhat nervous about undertaking the procedure.

rs

Click to expand...

I did that video a while back
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kCc5fwssVM
I have three series.
The original one where I take you through the complete anatomy of the carts and how to convert them the longer and more arduous way.
The second one I gave you the link above.
That last one does not require you to dismantle anything but you really have to be super carefull as Mike found out.

Joe

jtoolman said:

I did that video a while back
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kCc5fwssVM
I have three series.
The original one where I take you through the complete anatomy of the carts and how to convert them the longer and more arduous way.
The second one I gave you the link above.
That last one does not require you to dismantle anything but you really have to be super carefull as Mike found out.

Joe

Click to expand...

Good to know Jose. I am about to embark on the procedure, so will track it down. Your image quality and verbal explanations are always very comprehensive.

rs

Thanks for the offer Joe but I have spare carts from which I can extract the required parts. Actually I ended up modifying other ones rather reusing the old ones even though they were already disassembled as well.

jtoolman said:

I did that video a while back
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kCc5fwssVM
I have three series.
The original one where I take you through the complete anatomy of the carts and how to convert them the longer and more arduous way.
The second one I gave you the link above.
That last one does not require you to dismantle anything but you really have to be super carefull as Mike found out.

Joe

Click to expand...

Hi Jose,

I have been reviewing your videos, and at the moment am leaning towards dismantling the valve and drilling the small hole with a thin drill bit, rather than try to probe and puncture with a long needle.

Basing my decision on the theory that if I am clumsy I will probably do LESS harm that way as I should have better control of the hole location.

Did I hear you correctly on the video say you used 1/64th drill bit. Seems very thin, but it that is what I need will start the rounds at Home Depot.

rs