can one make light magenta and ligh cayn by diluting magenta and cyan

Smile

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"(My attempt for explanation would be, that this violet tint is associated to the ink mix of home printers, while fuji drylabs are a different league..)"

Thanks for tests. Fuji seems to seriously need ICC profile, despite neutral black ink.

Despite what inks looks like in a glass of water the real comparison would need to use spectrophotometer and special optical material vials and software to be able to compare the stuff. Besides on my dilution test only slight deviation made colorcasts change on small amount of water, so best would be to dilute large amount then use some of it for measurements or use microliter syringe etc. It's not simple.
 
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Smile said:
..Fuji seems to seriously need ICC profile, despite neutral black ink...
Click to expand...
As I said the scans are not accurate .. in reality unprofiled fuji DL prints may be quite useable IMO .. depending on the paper..

But what I am trying to say is that an ink set for epson 6 channel home printers might need the "violet black" - not the neutral black from fuji DL ink.
I did not find out whether the original claria black ink (seen diluted in a glass) is on the violet side or if it is neutral grey.
- So if anybody has a OEM claria black cartridge in use: could you put a drop of ink in a glass with water and see if the dilution appears neutral grey or with a clearly visible tint!?
 
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Excuse my bad english, but "LM toning would result in very neutral b&w prints."
Does this mean the toning would be by driver or by adding LM ink to K ink and filling cartridge with it? In the first case one would need RIP that is not available on small format printers (except Gutenprint, Wutenprint).
 
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martin0reg

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One more comparison of ink and color matching, each two prints "out-of-printer" without profiling, using the same driver settings, lying side by side and shot with AWB (instead of scanning, see post #30).

- matte inkjet paper "tecco production 130g" (similar to "epson photo quality inkjet paper"):
- epson "premium glossy" 255g OEM

Ink is the fuji DL ink (as described in this thread) vs. coralgraph (cheap from ebay but surprisingly lightfast in pharmacist's test).
DSC01445kl_ji.jpg DSC01447kl_ji.jpg
Sorry I have no claria - but anyway the results of fuji DL ink without profiling is okay for me, at least on the tecco paper, on the epson glossy it comes out in rather warm tone...
The coralgraph ink needs far more correction i.e. profiling.
 
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Ink stained Fingers

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I'm diluting C and M dye and pigment inks with a head cleaner - 1:2.5 to LM and LC, no problem so far, I'm doing my own profiles, such light colors are not expanding the color space , light colors are not saturated enough to do it. Red, blue, green, orange or other colors used by some printers are saturated and should expand the color space somewhat. Whether you just could measure it , or whether it's actually visible - I don't know.
 
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Ink stained Fingers said:
I'm diluting C and M dye and pigment inks with a head cleaner - 1:2.5 to LM and LC, no problem so far, I'm doing my own profiles, such light colors are not expanding the color space , light colors are not saturated enough to do it. Red, blue, green, orange or other colors used by some printers are saturated and should expand the color space somewhat. Whether you just could measure it , or whether it's actually visible - I don't know.
Click to expand...

Good idea to use head cleaner as solvent for inks, given the fact it is similar, no foaming etc.
 
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10 ml and 25 ml syringes are standard volumes - for a CISS refill its 10ml ink and 25 ml cleaner, or 2x , it's almost automatic, and I don't have LM and LC bottles around, it's not a strong cleaner, without ammonia, I guess something similar to the base ink solvent mix, just without dyes, no problems so far, no fall out in the reservoir, no decoloration of the dyes, so there is apparently not much chemical reaction.
 
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I would like to know the band name of your cleaner, and it's dye or pigment ink you are diluting.
 
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